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hyhuu
Oct 17, 2007, 5:26 PM
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Are there any chimneys at the New that I can get on to practice for the stuffs out West?
And how do you post in the Regional Discussion forum?
Thanks,
hyhuu
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coastal_climber
Oct 17, 2007, 5:31 PM
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hyhuu wrote: And how do you post in the Regional Discussion forum?
Find the route/area in the Routes database, and post in the forum for that area.
>Cam
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dan4geng
Oct 17, 2007, 6:00 PM
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There is a bolted chimney at Bubba city that i think goes at 5.7. If thats the sorta thing your looking for.
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knieveltech
Oct 17, 2007, 6:14 PM
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Are you thinking of Plumber's Crack? If so I wouldn't call that a chimney, although I suppose if you where desperate enough you could get your right shoulder in there, on the lower third of the route maybe.
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microbarn
Oct 17, 2007, 6:18 PM
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dan4geng wrote: There is a bolted chimney at Bubba city that i think goes at 5.7. If thats the sorta thing your looking for.
If this is the route I know of, then you don't climb it using chimney technique. I suppose you could try though. I would guess it would be harder then 5.7 at that point.
There are a few chimney sections on Seneca. Again, you can often avoid the chimney technique, but you could avoid the face holds just for the sake of practice too.
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nrg_sr_climber
Oct 17, 2007, 6:26 PM
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Bubba City, Head Wall
Verde Suave 5.7 sport
This is a chimney climb
(This post was edited by nrg_sr_climber on Oct 17, 2007, 7:29 PM)
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markc
Oct 17, 2007, 7:13 PM
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It isn't the New, but you can find several chimney routes (or sections of routes that allow chimney techniques) at Seneca.
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truello
Oct 17, 2007, 7:24 PM
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Daisy Cutter? If so, Microbarn is correct in that you don't really chimney up it.
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hyhuu
Oct 17, 2007, 7:30 PM
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I climb at Seneca and there really isn't much chimney technique to learn there. Thank you though.
markc wrote: It isn't the New, but you can find several chimney routes (or sections of routes that allow chimney techniques) at Seneca. |
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thorne
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Oct 17, 2007, 7:43 PM
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You might want to just keep an eye out for manmade chimneys, i.e. recesses on outside of buildings. Seems like this feature was popular on dorms built in the 70s. Do some covert TRing or bouldering.
I know this sounds far-fetched, but chimneys on this side of the country are pretty rare.
If you happen to be down near Charlotte, check out Caterpiller (5.7) at Crowders Mountain.
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kimsismour
Oct 17, 2007, 8:03 PM
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Mama's Squeeze Box. Beauty Wall. Great Chimney that moves into an off width, and then back to Chimney. 5.8 I believe.
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markc
Oct 17, 2007, 8:17 PM
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hyhuu wrote: I climb at Seneca and there really isn't much chimney technique to learn there. Thank you though.
I seem to recall bumping into a couple of chimney routes in the guide. Aren't there a couple chimney routes on the Southern Pillar? I'll see if I can turn up anything more specific.
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CinnamonJohnson
Oct 17, 2007, 8:30 PM
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I hate Seneca Rocks.
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munky
Oct 17, 2007, 9:34 PM
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Just to clarify:
Do you mean a traditional chimney which is a feature that can be climbed in various ways. (usually stemming and face holds) or do you mean a squeeze chimney or offwidth in which you need to use other techniques such as fist, butterflys, hand stacks, chicken wings, Levitation, etc.? There are many offwidths and squeezes at the New, however they are not pure in the sense that the business can usually be avoided by using some face holds.
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microbarn
Oct 17, 2007, 9:44 PM
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markc wrote: hyhuu wrote: I climb at Seneca and there really isn't much chimney technique to learn there. Thank you though. I seem to recall bumping into a couple of chimney routes in the guide. Aren't there a couple chimney routes on the Southern Pillar? I'll see if I can turn up anything more specific.
You *COULD* ignore the face holds and do chimney technique on many of the easier routes. To be as specific as possible:
last pitch of Le Gormet
Second pitch of Conn's West
The 5.4 that is on the Lower Slabs
3rd pitch of Old Ladies (haha, I would love to see someone trying to chimney up and ignore the face holds on this one)
There are others, but they all seem to have face holds. Perhaps others know of some real chimneys there.
(This post was edited by microbarn on Oct 17, 2007, 9:44 PM)
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justroberto
Oct 17, 2007, 10:04 PM
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fukkett dude, if you're in sterling, just go to Old Rag. I guess you could try to chimney up behind butterfly flake at Bubba City, but I don't see how it could be very worthwhile...
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notch
Oct 17, 2007, 10:57 PM
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CinnamonJohnson wrote: I hate Seneca Rocks.
Thanks for contributing though.
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CinnamonJohnson
Oct 17, 2007, 11:14 PM
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I think youre right. Seneca Rocks must hate me, because the whole time I was there it was flinging choss-blocks at me trying to kill me.
Oh, no wait- that was the trad-goobers kicking off rocks from above.. ROOOOCCKKK
My favorite part was how everyone there is such a wanker that they speak reverently of anyone who climbs moderate grades. I saw someone coming up the trail and one person whispered to another, "Whoa, do you know who that is? That guy climbs Fiiiiive-NINE!!!".
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ClimbinBob
Oct 18, 2007, 12:06 AM
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 The only chimney that comes to mind is the top of Agony (10b) at Seneca. According to the guidebook, they call it the 2nd pitch, but I've climbed the route as one long pitch. I didn't think it as much of a grunt as the guidebook states. Also, Tonys Nightmare (6), but the pigeons seem to own that section, if you know what I mean. Good luck!
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ClimbinBob
Oct 18, 2007, 12:17 AM
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If you hate Seneca, then you're either too big for yer britches, or you just haven't done the good routes there. True, there are alot of beginning climbers there on the easy stuff, so you must be aware of rockfall in certain areas. I stay away from the Drop Zone (11b) area in midday, and you always have to be careful around the base of Old Mans and Conns West. That being said, there's lots of great stuff on the east face of the north peak. What do you hate so much about Seneca?
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dallas27
Oct 18, 2007, 12:29 AM
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dan4geng wrote: There is a bolted chimney at Bubba city that i think goes at 5.7. If thats the sorta thing your looking for.
Ya, I know the one. 5 bolts then and anchor. about 3-4 feet widths, and a large stone wedged in the top. I'd say about a 5.6
(This post was edited by dallas27 on Oct 18, 2007, 2:59 PM)
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petsfed
Oct 18, 2007, 12:34 AM
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A fist is used for a great many things, but on squeeze chimneys and offwidths? Not so much.
Training/practice really isn't neccesary for most chimneys that are bigger than squeeze. Its intuitive, if uncomfortable. True offwidth and squeeze require actual training in the given techniques, so keep your eyes open for those.
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markc
Oct 18, 2007, 2:51 AM
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microbarn wrote: markc wrote: hyhuu wrote: I climb at Seneca and there really isn't much chimney technique to learn there. Thank you though. I seem to recall bumping into a couple of chimney routes in the guide. Aren't there a couple chimney routes on the Southern Pillar? I'll see if I can turn up anything more specific. You *COULD* ignore the face holds and do chimney technique on many of the easier routes. To be as specific as possible: last pitch of Le Gormet Second pitch of Conn's West The 5.4 that is on the Lower Slabs 3rd pitch of Old Ladies (haha, I would love to see someone trying to chimney up and ignore the face holds on this one) There are others, but they all seem to have face holds. Perhaps others know of some real chimneys there.
Great Chimney (South Pillar) Only 5.1, but two pitches of chimney climbing.
Roy Gap Chimneys (South Pillar) Recommended 5.6, three pitches.
P1 of Skyline Traverse if you skip the crack and face holds, as well as options listed by microbarn. There may be other opportunities, as well.
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lofstromc
Oct 18, 2007, 3:10 AM
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Old Rag has chimneys, some of which haven't even been climbed yet (or at least recorded as being climbed).
There is one on the PATC wall. I forget the name.
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nowinowski
Oct 18, 2007, 5:30 AM
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report to sickbay -oldrag
mamas squeezebox - beauty
screamer crack -beauty
agony - seneca
all good but why practice chimneys? practice something hard if you get scared enough chimneys will come very naturally |
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