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thomasribiere
Oct 23, 2007, 9:11 PM
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Sorry to look like a n00b here, but this is something I've never seen used in my 12 euro years of sport climbing, and I don't really get what they are designed for. Could someone explain me their purpose? If someone hs a pic of a daisy chain in situ, please submit as well. Thank you.
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macblaze
Oct 23, 2007, 9:39 PM
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uh... no. They are for aid, but that's as much as I really know since I don't aid...
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catskillshiker
Oct 23, 2007, 9:47 PM
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The video from black diamond shows how to properly clip into an anchor with them. Also from BD... Rig Jumars, lead aid or sort out complicated belays. Daisys are precision bar tacked, individually inspected and their end loops have a half-twist for clean girth hitching to your harness.
(This post was edited by catskillshiker on Oct 23, 2007, 9:52 PM)
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thomasribiere
Oct 23, 2007, 9:54 PM
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It's amazing how my 3D comprehension is deficient : I've seen this video 3 times, and even with the replays and stops, the two first failures still seem 'tricky'! If only I had one, I would touch and try and see myself. From BD, daisy chains are primarily designed for Aid, which might explain that I don't know about them.
(This post was edited by thomasribiere on Oct 23, 2007, 10:02 PM)
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catskillshiker
Oct 23, 2007, 10:01 PM
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I tried it with a 24" sling. I just taped it a few times to make "pockets" and it does fail.
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thomasribiere
Oct 23, 2007, 10:10 PM
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catskillshiker wrote: I tried it with a 24" sling. I just taped it a few times to make "pockets" and it does fail. So did I, but it didn't fail with my own configuration, until I twisted it. The in situ risk is apparently if the climber doesn't pay attention (as often).
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coastal_climber
Oct 23, 2007, 10:43 PM
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They are on a biner between your aiders. When you step up the aiders, you hook the next loop with a fifi hook. >Cam
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fulton
Oct 23, 2007, 11:49 PM
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If do a google image search for "daisy chain" you will get something great
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dan2see
Oct 24, 2007, 1:24 AM
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Check out Skinner's trip report, two weeks ago. We are attached to the belay station with daisies. Skinner's Trip Report (with daisies) You can clip either end short with those loops. That makes them convenient and comfortable.
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ja1484
Oct 24, 2007, 1:29 AM
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Purcell Prusiks offer more adjustability than daisies with none of the inherent risks. I pretty much see no point to daisy chains anymore: Click to enbiggen.
(This post was edited by ja1484 on Oct 24, 2007, 1:30 AM)
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addicted2alpine
Oct 24, 2007, 2:24 AM
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ja1484 wrote: Purcell Prusiks offer more adjustability than daisies with none of the inherent risks. I pretty much see no point to daisy chains anymore: [image]http://www.ahsrescue.com/images/PRODUCT/large/1211.jpg[/image] Click to enbiggen. except you cant get in as close
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moose_droppings
Oct 24, 2007, 2:47 AM
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addicted2alpine wrote: ja1484 wrote: Purcell Prusiks offer more adjustability than daisies with none of the inherent risks. I pretty much see no point to daisy chains anymore: [image]http://www.ahsrescue.com/images/PRODUCT/large/1211.jpg[/image] Click to enbiggen. except you cant get in as close and, except for aiding
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thomasribiere
Oct 24, 2007, 10:29 AM
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dan2see wrote: Check out Skinner's trip report, two weeks ago. We are attached to the belay station with daisies. Skinner's Trip Report (with daisies) You can clip either end short with those loops. That makes them convenient and comfortable. It's used here as a sling to connect yourself to the blelay station.
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viciado
Oct 24, 2007, 11:09 AM
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Thomas, Yep. Thats what they are for. I learned to make daisy chains (and subsequently etriers) from webbing from my instructor (a european) some 20 years ago. In my last 5 years of euro sport climbing, I have seen two options that are used instead f a daisy. The first is a single sewn tape (anneau?) that offers a fixed length to auto belay at the anchors. The second is the homemade daisy chain... a longish tied webbing loop with a series of water knots that provide pockets along the loop so you can vary the distance between you and the anchor. Don't know if that helps, but at least its a euro perspective!
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penguinator
Oct 24, 2007, 11:15 AM
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Daisies are pretty much for aid only. They should never be used as an anchor, as it adds a static force to what should be, a dynamic system. A daisy chain is girth-hitched into your belay loop, with a biner at the other end. When you are standing in your aiders, you can clip your daisy chain directly into the piece of pro, so you can free up your arms and hang in your harness. You can either hook into the daisy loops with two fifi hooks, or a biner. If your using fifi hooks, you have a long one and a shorter one. The shorter one is used when your standing in the lower steps which is where all your organization for the next move is done. You just hook into whatever loop on the daisy is most comfortable. The longer one is used when you need to make a long reaching move, and your standing in the highest step with your waist well above the protection. In that case you would most likely be hooking directly into the placement rather than the daisy. If your using a biner instead of the fifi's, you just clip in short to the loops of the daisy.
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vegastradguy
Oct 25, 2007, 7:22 PM
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daisy chain = aid (as others have stated already) there's no reason to ever use one for free climbing. you're tied into a rope- use it.
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coastal_climber
Oct 25, 2007, 7:50 PM
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Just use cows'tails. >Cam
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wolfski
Oct 25, 2007, 7:55 PM
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your a mod and you dont know what a daisy is for???
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reg
Oct 25, 2007, 8:08 PM
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penguinator wrote: Daisies are pretty much for aid only. They should never be used as an anchor, as it adds a static force to what should be, a dynamic system. A daisy chain is girth-hitched into your belay loop, with a biner at the other end. When you are standing in your aiders, you can clip your daisy chain directly into the piece of pro, so you can free up your arms and hang in your harness. You can either hook into the daisy loops with two fifi hooks, or a biner. If your using fifi hooks, you have a long one and a shorter one. The shorter one is used when your standing in the lower steps which is where all your organization for the next move is done. You just hook into whatever loop on the daisy is most comfortable. The longer one is used when you need to make a long reaching move, and your standing in the highest step with your waist well above the protection. In that case you would most likely be hooking directly into the placement rather than the daisy. If your using a biner instead of the fifi's, you just clip in short to the loops of the daisy. there ya go - that's what they're for - a secondary use has developed over time that being the use at belays. remember they were designed for body weight and not for use in a dynamic system.
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carabiner96
Oct 25, 2007, 11:10 PM
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wolfski wrote: your a mod and you dont know what a daisy is for??? You're a dooshbag on a climbing site? Whoa, who'd a thunk! (sry...)
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wolfski
Oct 25, 2007, 11:13 PM
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im not trying to be a dick, im just saying you would think a mod would know. i mean this is basically my first year climbing and i know what they are for
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carabiner96
Oct 25, 2007, 11:23 PM
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Mods are just here to make sure peeps stay in line on the forums. No climbing exp necessary, though I hear thomas is a pretty busy guy.
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penguinator
Oct 26, 2007, 3:28 AM
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You can sport climb and boulder all your life and not know what a daisy is used for, let alone ever see one. One of my friend who sport climbs thinks pitons are for fighting off bears. He has a colorful imagination
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Carnage
Oct 26, 2007, 1:28 PM
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penguinator wrote: You can sport climb and boulder all your life and not know what a daisy is used for, let alone ever see one. One of my friend who sport climbs thinks pitons are for fighting off bears. He has a colorful imagination oh... so what are they really used for?
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