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blueeyedclimber
Nov 9, 2007, 2:37 PM
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Certain things are passed on from generation to generation until they are proven wrong or we just come to our senses and say, "Well, that's just stupid!" Here are a few myths that seem to keep on going:
1. Don't Step on the Rope! Although this isn't really a myth. You definitely should not be trodding all over yours or someone else's rope with your dirty, stinky feet. But...it definitely isn't the deadly evil that has been preached about from the old curmudgeons of climbing's past.
2. Microfractures. Does anybody still believe in this boogeyman?
3. Every anchor should have an upward pull piece. Definitely no, but you should know when you need one.
4. You should retire gear after falling on it. Ha! Ha! Actually this is true, send it to me for proper disposal.
5. The leader should not fall. I think this is pretty much dead in today's day and age, but every once in a while you hear it. But, the leader should know when not to fall.
If you want to add some more myths or argue with me about mine, feel free to post.
Josh
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zealotnoob
Nov 9, 2007, 2:43 PM
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What's the deal with "point loading," i.e., never load a biner clipped to another biner...myth, right?
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blueeyedclimber
Nov 9, 2007, 2:48 PM
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zealotnoob wrote: What's the deal with "point loading," i.e., never load a biner clipped to another biner...myth, right?
I have actually never heard that term before. SOunds like a myth in the making. Hey if that's all i have left to extend something then I'll use it. Not the perfect tool for the job, but I ran out of slings 25 feet ago. Never say never!
Josh
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dingus
Nov 9, 2007, 2:49 PM
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Microfractures I'll buy (pending new information that is). The rest are mere qualifications and are not myths at all.
DMT
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reno
Nov 9, 2007, 2:51 PM
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Most anything that has the words "always" or "never."
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chossmonkey
Nov 9, 2007, 2:53 PM
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zealotnoob wrote: What's the deal with "point loading," i.e., never load a biner clipped to another biner...myth, right?
I've always avoided clipping two biners together because of the increased chance of them crossing and unclipping from each other.
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blueeyedclimber
Nov 9, 2007, 3:01 PM
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dingus wrote: Microfractures I'll buy (pending new information that is). The rest are mere qualifications and are not myths at all. DMT
And what new information is that? Did you stop buy to play word games?
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microbarn
Nov 9, 2007, 3:04 PM
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some people think their spine will explode when they top rope on a static rope.
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chossmonkey
Nov 9, 2007, 3:06 PM
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microbarn wrote: some people think their spine will explode when they top rope on a static rope.
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wanderlustmd
Nov 9, 2007, 3:07 PM
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Testing your gear with a jerk mimics a fall.
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Valarc
Nov 9, 2007, 3:10 PM
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wanderlustmd wrote: Testing your gear with a jerk mimics a fall.
When I jerk my gear, it has nothing to do with testing a fall...
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dingus
Nov 9, 2007, 3:10 PM
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blueeyedclimber wrote: dingus wrote: Microfractures I'll buy (pending new information that is). The rest are mere qualifications and are not myths at all. DMT And what new information is that? Did you stop buy to play word games?
Sorry I meant to write 'barring.' No word games, simple mistake on my part.
Cheers
DMT
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dingus
Nov 9, 2007, 3:13 PM
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microbarn wrote: some people think their spine will explode when they top rope on a static rope.
W. Braun says he led Astroman on a static rope so Galen Rowell would have a non-bouncy jug when he photoged Kauk for that famous phots series.
The very notion blew me away. THAT day, the leader could not fall.
Cheers
DMT
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zealotnoob
Nov 9, 2007, 3:13 PM
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True, biner-to-biner connections have the twist-and-unclip potential...obviously not ideal.
And, a rounded surface against another rounded surface is going to touch within a very small boundary, but does it really make a difference? I can't see it being much different that clipping a bolt.
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wanderlustmd
Nov 9, 2007, 3:14 PM
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I don't know anything about rigging a shoot...but why not just climb on a dynamic and trail a static??
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wanderlustmd
Nov 9, 2007, 3:15 PM
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Valarc wrote: wanderlustmd wrote: Testing your gear with a jerk mimics a fall. When I jerk my gear, it has nothing to do with testing a fall...
That was a joke referencing to another thread.
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j_ung
Nov 9, 2007, 3:16 PM
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Always maintain three points of contact.
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coastal_climber
Nov 9, 2007, 3:19 PM
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chossmonkey wrote: I've always avoided clipping two biners together because of the increased chance of them crossing and unclipping from each other.
I've heard it has to do something to do with the loading axis.
>Cam
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jt512
Nov 9, 2007, 3:34 PM
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coastal_climber wrote: chossmonkey wrote: I've always avoided clipping two biners together because of the increased chance of them crossing and unclipping from each other. I've heard it has to do something to do with the loading axis.
I thought the point of this thread was to dispel old myths, not start new ones. We have the whole rest of the site for that.
Jay
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climb_eng
Nov 9, 2007, 3:36 PM
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coastal_climber wrote: chossmonkey wrote: I've always avoided clipping two biners together because of the increased chance of them crossing and unclipping from each other. I've heard it has to do something to do with the loading axis. >Cam
You heard wrong. It's mearly a question of twist and unclip. Aid climbers go biner to biner all the time and then funk the SHIT out of gear, and generally the biners are still OK.
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j_ung
Nov 9, 2007, 3:38 PM
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Dynamic movement is inefficient.
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coastal_climber
Nov 9, 2007, 3:41 PM
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climb_eng wrote: coastal_climber wrote: chossmonkey wrote: I've always avoided clipping two biners together because of the increased chance of them crossing and unclipping from each other. I've heard it has to do something to do with the loading axis. >Cam You heard wrong. It's mearly a question of twist and unclip. Aid climbers go biner to biner all the time and then funk the SHIT out of gear, and generally the biners are still OK.
Yes, I do it when I'm aiding as well. Thats how I was taught. Just wondering if anyone else had heard the same thing.
>Cam
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jeff_m
Nov 9, 2007, 3:42 PM
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A few off the top o' me head:
• Your shoes are supposed to hurt your feet/smash your toes together/cut off circulation, etc.
• Zero extension and/or Perfect equalization
• Don't touch the rope when you're being lowered
• Cams are better/safer than nuts/chocks
• If you're way out in the boonies and get hurt, calling 911 is always the best
• A gri-gri is the best belay device for beginners
• An 11b in the gym is the same outside (or to paraphrase: Grades matter)
I'm sure there are a couple more...
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angry
Nov 9, 2007, 4:14 PM
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jeff_m wrote: A few off the top o' me head: • Your shoes are supposed to hurt your feet/smash your toes together/cut off circulation, etc. • Zero extension and/or Perfect equalization • Don't touch the rope when you're being lowered • Cams are better/safer than nuts/chocks • If you're way out in the boonies and get hurt, calling 911 is always the best • A gri-gri is the best belay device for beginners • An 11b in the gym is the same outside (or to paraphrase: Grades matter) I'm sure there are a couple more...
Are these myths or just shit you made up sp you'd have something to contribute to the thread?
I like your style.
Here's a few more.
A spare tire makes a great mattress in a pinch
Don't stick your nut-tool too far in your ear
If you sharpen your skills, it might cut the rope.
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