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East Coast/Mid West Trad
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JCrasePW


Nov 13, 2007, 8:34 PM
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East Coast/Mid West Trad
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Last winter my friend and I made our first trip up Seneca Rock in WV. This year we'll both be back in town for the hoidays and are looking for something big to pull ourselves up. Is there anything around that compares to Seneca as far as height and quality of climbing? Were in Cincinnati but will make a trip out of it for some good climbing. Cheers.

-jason-


microbarn


Nov 13, 2007, 8:50 PM
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Re: [JCrasePW] East Coast/Mid West Trad [In reply to]
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no

Go to seneca.

New River Gorge and Red River Gorge are your second choice, but they don't seem to have the height.


whiskeybullets


Nov 13, 2007, 8:57 PM
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Re: [JCrasePW] East Coast/Mid West Trad [In reply to]
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The new and the red have tons of great trad, but it's cragging trad, not multi-pitch. T-wall is the same, but proabably better crack climbing. For big stone you have to head to NC. Check out Rumbling Bald, or Looking Glass. I haven't made it out there yet, but Laurel Knob is rumored to have the longest routes in the east.


truello


Nov 13, 2007, 8:58 PM
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Re: [microbarn] East Coast/Mid West Trad [In reply to]
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The Red has a few 200 footers, sport and trad.


truello


Nov 13, 2007, 9:15 PM
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The long ones I was thinking of are Trad, but there are a few multipitch sport routes too (not 200 feet) from what I recall.


ja1484


Nov 13, 2007, 10:22 PM
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Re: [whiskeybullets] East Coast/Mid West Trad [In reply to]
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whiskeybullets wrote:
The new and the red have tons of great trad, but it's cragging trad, not multi-pitch. T-wall is the same, but proabably better crack climbing. For big stone you have to head to NC. Check out Rumbling Bald, or Looking Glass. I haven't made it out there yet, but Laurel Knob is rumored to have the longest routes in the east.


This man speaks the truth. All of the following crags here in NC offer trad routes two pitches or longer of excellent quality:

Moore's Wall (up to 2 pitches)
Stone Mountain (up to 5 pitches)
Rumbling Bald (Can't recall off the top of my head)
Looking Glass Rock (See Rumbling Bald)
Linville Gorge (Includes Table Rock and many other crags)
Whiteside Mountain (up to 12 pitches - know what you're getting into)
Laurel Knob (Largest granite cliff east of the Miss. - up to 12 pitches)


(This post was edited by ja1484 on Nov 14, 2007, 1:14 AM)


JCrasePW


Nov 14, 2007, 12:48 AM
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NC it is. Gonna look into it. Cheers.


ja1484


Nov 14, 2007, 1:16 AM
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Word of wisdom - if you've never been here before, come with a cool head. A lot of NC route developers were fans of R/X ratings. Others just did R/X routes and decided not to include those lovely little letters in the ratings. More often than not if a route has a "+" rating, it's because of the bold/heady/exposed nature of the route, not the physical strain.

I recommend the most recent edition of "Selected Climbs in North Carolina" by Lambert/Shull as your guidebook. If you'd like to get ahold of topos for some of the areas not listed in said book, PM me - I have copies acquired through nefarious means for most every crag in the state. Be happy to scan a copy and send it on over via the internets.

So, as mentioned, come calm, stay calm, and use your judgment. Have fun!


(This post was edited by ja1484 on Nov 14, 2007, 1:19 AM)


thej


Nov 14, 2007, 2:10 AM
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Re: [ja1484] East Coast/Mid West Trad [In reply to]
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if you get to scanning and emailing, ill gladly take a copy. I am driving by the whitesides overlook on 64 a few times a day working in highlands, it is torture!

definitely be prepared to experience a different type of climbing. also, i know you are looking for trad, but "bolt protected" is a lot different than "sport", and it doesn't seem that protected.

bests!


rsmillbern


Nov 14, 2007, 2:22 AM
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Re: [ja1484] East Coast/Mid West Trad [In reply to]
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ja1484 wrote:
Moore's Wall (up to 2 pitches)
Stone Mountain (up to 5 pitches)
Rumbling Bald (Can't recall off the top of my head)
Looking Glass Rock (See Rumbling Bald)
Linville Gorge (Includes Table Rock and many other crags)
Whiteside Mountain (up to 12 pitches - know what you're getting into)
Laurel Knob (Largest granite cliff east of the Miss. - up to 12 pitches)

ja1484 has it nailed I'd just add that Stone can be a bit runout, Whitesides IS pretty serious and Laurel Knob is awesome. Shortoff is good in the winter as well (Linville Gorge)

For Laurel Knob check here for info
http://www.carolinaclimbers.org/phpBB2/viewforum.php?f=15


(This post was edited by rsmillbern on Nov 14, 2007, 2:23 AM)


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