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daniilmag
Apr 23, 2002, 6:00 PM
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What equipment do I need to set up a top rope anchor? Mainly for bolted, walk up routes, but if you can suggest anything that would help on other setups, that would help too.
This is what I have so far :
4 quick draws
15' webbing
20' 9mm cordalette
a daisy chain
2 locking biners
4 non locking biners
any additions or deletions?
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jumaringjeff
Apr 23, 2002, 7:02 PM
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Hello,
For bolt anchors, use a locker on each, then connect your cordelette to those, and then connect 2 lockers to the clip-in loop and clip your rope into that.
(NOTE: Although lockers are highly recommended, non-locking biners can be used, just make sure you oppose the gates)
If the bolts are dicey (ex. old, rusted buttonheads or poorly placed rawls), back them up.
Of course, before you do ANY of this, seek instruction from someone experienced. This is of utmost importance.
Happy TRing,
jj
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case22
Apr 24, 2002, 3:10 AM
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I'm not trying to sound rude or anything, but if you're not sure of what to take to set up a top-rope, maybe you should go get some advice from your local gym. As an instructor, I know that it can be extremely dangerous to go out and try to set up top-rope if you're unsure about it. It's always better to be safe, plus, the people at the gym would be more than happy to help you!
Good luck!
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holygecko
Apr 24, 2002, 3:03 PM
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what you got sounds good maybe a few more lockers and some more webbing try another 20-30 feet atleast this would be a good set up for were I climb (grande ledge MI.)
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miagi
Apr 24, 2002, 3:41 PM
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Im going to agree with case on this one. Make sure you know what your doing first just to be safe. You have pretty much everything you need, but just incase, buy 2 more lockers . You might be safe on webbing since you already have a cordlette, but it is cheap so buy some more just incase. A locker on each bolt, the clip in loop of the cordlette, and your belayer's harness is the safest way to go. You can even setup your quickdraws to be opposed and anchor off of them, but make sure the biners where the rope is going through are opposed.
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daniilmag
Apr 24, 2002, 5:25 PM
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Thanks for all the help. I'm not actually going to be the person setting up the anchor, I'm just buying the equipment for it. I got the list from the guy who will set it up and he recommended that I ask here in case he's overlooked something. Also, the local gym people only know how to maintain their auto-belayers.
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monkeyarm
Oct 14, 2002, 7:19 AM
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Depending on where you are climbing soem static rope can be helpfull, although webbing will do in most places.
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ajkclay
Oct 14, 2002, 11:03 AM
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I would definately have some static rope, 5-8 metres, a rope protector, and are your screwgates steel? They wear a bit better for top rope, as they can tend to get dragged around on the Top rope.
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tradklime
Oct 14, 2002, 5:53 PM
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A set of nuts can be handy. Obviously, if there are no bolts or trees readily available you can set an anchor and when access to the anchor is a bit sketchy you can set up another anchor for a safety line, etc.
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bretterick
Oct 14, 2002, 6:54 PM
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Redundancy...thats all i have to say
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vegastradguy
Oct 14, 2002, 7:49 PM
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Um, if the guy who is going to set it up for you not only doesnt have all the gear needed, and also asked you to check the list, I'm not sure I'd trust him to set up a good TR.
Personally, I know what gear I would need to set one up on bolts without even having to think about it. Not to mention the fact that I have all that gear. And then some.
I would go out with someone who has a great deal of either trad/sport experience and have them show you how to do it properly.
Have fun, be safe!
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scrappydoo
Oct 14, 2002, 7:58 PM
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I am in full agreement with vegastradguy.
Besides that, the folks at the climbing shop--if its slow--would probably be happy to run you through what you need to set-up a toprope and how to do it.
Learn the theory--not just the 'how'-- of setting up anchors and topropes: that way you will know how to set up an anchor in any situation and also what isn't a good anchor.
Beginner climbers should read "Freedom of the Hills"--lots of great info.
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spydermonkey
Oct 14, 2002, 8:48 PM
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Thats all you need. 2 anchors or more, and a rope. hehehe.
spyder
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tigerbythetail
Oct 14, 2002, 8:49 PM
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I would have to agree with some of the prior postings - Go take a class!!
If you have to ask, then you shouldn't consider it...unless you would like to become a statistic.
Even if you are considering going with someone you should still learn so you can assess their set-up (something you're currently unable to do).
Take your time to learn properly as gravity never sleeps.
[ This Message was edited by: tigerbythetail on 2002-10-14 13:53 ]
[ This Message was edited by: tigerbythetail on 2002-10-14 13:53 ]
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spydermonkey
Oct 14, 2002, 8:57 PM
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Great advice. I have taken 2 1/2 yrs. to learn fully the setups and stuff. And now I'm confedent in my abilities and I can trust myself to be safe and can take other people.
spyder
Just take your time and learn everything so it is second nature to you.
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kman
Oct 15, 2002, 2:50 AM
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Some one mentioned to buy some nuts. Do not even think of using nuts if you do not know how to set up a normal top-rope. Personally I would not trust my life to some one that recommended that you check a web site to make sure he didn't miss anything.
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ajkclay
Oct 16, 2002, 3:01 AM
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Quote:
Gravity never sleeps
tigerbythetail
That is a really good one! Seriously, I'm not taking the piss.
I love it! You are a &^$^#&%*&%^ing genius.
Is it yours, or did you hear someone else say it?
Mind if I use it?
That is one saying that is just going to make me sound like Mr Myagi. "Gravity never sleeps Danielsan."
Adam
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pelliott
Oct 16, 2002, 3:40 AM
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Here is what I take:
3-30' lengths of webbing.
1-Full set of nuts doubled on the bigger sizes.
5-Largest size hexes.
6 to 8-locking BD enduro carabiners.
1-30' cordelette.
2-big locking pear shaped carabiners.
Rope.
If I know I need to sling some boulders, or if the anchors are far from the edge, I will bring more webbing.
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wlderdude
Oct 16, 2002, 11:41 AM
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That list is awful odd for top rope gear. I would br pretty sceptical about climbing with somone who recomends that.
Go to your local library or climbing shop and get a book on climbing anchors taht has lots of good pictures. Do your homework before you climb with this guy. A class would be better, if you can take one.
As for gear, don't bother with a daisy chain. They are only good for body weight and won't hold falls. Get about 100 ft of tubular webbing in various lengths and colors. Some prusik cord or slings for kleinsamn knots can get you out of a jam. Forget the quickdraws unless you are sport leading and get 8 locking biners. Steel are nice if you don't mind the weight. Keylocking are the best if you can afford them.
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orangekyak
Oct 16, 2002, 2:03 PM
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If all you are going to do is top rope (and there's nothing wrong with that), you don't need most of the crap that people are mentioning in this thread. A lot of it is expensive and you might not know how to use it right yet anyway.
If I was to build a beginning TR "rack", I would get the following.
5 locking D biners (Omegas are about $6 each)
1 pear biner for belay (REI $11)
1 ATC ($15)
1 50 meter 10.5-11 mm rope ($100)
1 40 foot tubular webbing ($10)
1 30 " " " ($7.50)
1 20 " " " ($5)
The above comes out to $178.50 (not including harnesses and shoes). That's just $78.50 if you already have a rope, and just $52.50 if you got an ATC and belay biner in one of those harness sets.
If ya wanna be cheaper still, you can cut back on biners to just 2 lockers, but if you are attaching to bolts you do not want to attach webbing to them (a different argument in a different thread).
I do not recommend the cordalette that others do, because cord is not as durable as webbing and you can always make a web-alette bye tieing figure-8s-on-bight to each end (always tie knot in clip-in point to make anchor redundant and non-extending).
If you wanna pimp-out this set-up you can throw in a couple short sewn slings to make equalizing easier, and a couple long sewn slings to make tree-hitching easier.
You don't need lots of stuff, you can be cheap without comprimising any safety or convenience.
Jeremy
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spydermonkey
Oct 16, 2002, 6:25 PM
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I'm going this weekend and I'll take a pic and post it here so you can see the perfect top rope set up. I'll label everything and give a detailed description of it.
spyder
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tigerbythetail
Oct 16, 2002, 7:30 PM
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"I'm going this weekend and I'll take a pic and post it here so you can see the perfect top rope set up. I'll label everything and give a detailed description of it."
That's awful nice of you, but instruction is best left to hands-on demonstrations, not photos viewed over a website. This website is designed to pass along information, not to teach basic skills. If you don't know how to set up a toprope don't do it until you TAKE A CLASS.
[ This Message was edited by: tigerbythetail on 2002-10-16 12:31 ]
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spydermonkey
Oct 16, 2002, 7:35 PM
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Good thats the way you sould do it. I'll still send you the pic so you can just get an idea about how its done.
spyder
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billcoe_
Oct 18, 2002, 6:51 PM
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You already have the best piece of gear all of us possess. It is located between your ears.
You are already ahead of most people by asking experinced forks opinions.
Use it. Always. Never let down, not for a moment_ death is only inches away.
Depending where you climb, you may need different gear. Folks above have given good advice on hardware.
I climb at an abondoned quarry quite a bit. (And shoot at us when I was a kid!, hey, back when I was a kid you could evidently shoot at kids who tresspased, little buckshot couldn't hurt.) As they use to blast, the rock can be fractured and blocky (but not always). We have big-assed fir trees within feet of every climb here. I always, I mean always, back up every anchor with a short piece of retired rope wrapped around one of these behemoths. I clip off before I get within 5 feet of the edge. It does the trees no damage here (this is not true for all locations BTW). The backup rope I'm clipped to always is encorperated into my anchor as a backup.
I see beginners walk right to the edge of the cliff to clip bolts all the time. It's generally wet around here, even when we have sunshine the ground is often wet, slipping is easy. Every once in a while somebody pitches off, sometimes they die.
Why the hell don't these idiots clip in?
Live long and prosper: Learn=live. Redundancy always.
Bill
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