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angry
Dec 27, 2007, 4:52 PM
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I was talking to a friend about 2007 last week.
As far as amazing feats performed by the climbing elite, it looks like most of them took 2007 off.
Some stuff got climbed, sure. There's not much I can think of that really seems noteworthy.
All I can think of is the sending of a hard boulder problem and the onsight of a hard sport route. Is that really it?
Am I missing something?
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moose_droppings
Dec 27, 2007, 5:25 PM
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A new record set on the nose.
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angry
Dec 27, 2007, 5:29 PM
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True.
Compared to Nose accomplishments of years past though, this seems a little trivial.
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j_ung
Dec 27, 2007, 5:30 PM
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Was Sharma's DWS in 2007? I can't remember.
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xtremst80
Dec 27, 2007, 5:31 PM
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I honestly can't think of anything?
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justroberto
Dec 27, 2007, 6:47 PM
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Of course nothing happened...Gabe Walker took off most of the year to train.
Rest assured, 2008 will see him silly-strong.
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gt29905
Dec 27, 2007, 7:13 PM
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My second trad lead was a .10a onsight, I'm pretty proud of that. My first was a .9 onsight that got real runout during the last twenty feet. It scared the bejesus out of me. All of which happened in 2007 so my climbing has come a long way this year.
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angry
Dec 27, 2007, 7:15 PM
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And I led some of the hardest things I've ever led too.
So is that it? 2007 was the year regular people did stuff while pro's took some time off?
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majid_sabet
Dec 27, 2007, 8:44 PM
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moose_droppings wrote: A new record set on the nose.
I thought it was car 2 car but no, I was wrong
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obe
Dec 27, 2007, 9:51 PM
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what are you talking about bro. 2007 was an ICREDIBLE year of climbing. There were hundreds of first ascents of problems over V13 and sport climbs over 5.14a. have you opened a magazine lately?
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a.frosch
Dec 27, 2007, 10:04 PM
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While impressive, 5.14a, b, or even c redpoints are hardly news anymore. There are just too many strong folks pushing into .14+ and 15- to make these sorts of climbs "ICREDIBLE."
Edited to say: I should add that while obe's definition of cutting edge climbing is slightly off, there were many great sends this year, such as Usobiaga's .14c onsight.
(This post was edited by a.frosch on Dec 27, 2007, 10:05 PM)
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angry
Dec 28, 2007, 6:32 AM
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That's kinda what I am getting at.
Accomplishments that are so amazing we all just look at it and say "damn". Accomplishments that transcend the magazines. Everyone knew it when Tommy did two El Cap routes in a day. Everyone knew it when Reardon soloed RW.
When some dude with strong fingers becomes the 391st guy to puy 5.14, it doesn't cause me to shake my head in disbelief (though I won't be #392).
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musicman1586
Dec 28, 2007, 7:41 AM
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There's two things that I thought were big deals in 2007, one being closer to heart for me than the other. First and much cooler in my opinion is the turn out of hard trad ascents being done, both single pitch and multipitch. From 5.14 scary run-out lines, to 5.13 big walls, I think its really cool to see that not everyone has become obsessed with bouldering and sport climbing (not that there is anything wrong with those disciplines, but I also think its cool when someone puts their neck on the line to run it out on a bad microstopper for a hard line or what have you). I just like that attention is being turned back towards adventure and trad climbing and more risky endeavors.
The other big deal to me in 2007, which I'm surprised hasn't been mentioned yet, was Paxti Usiobaga's week long climbing spree where he climbed two 5.15s, a 14c/d, and onsighted a 13d, 14a, and 14b, even more impressive is that he did one of the .15s and the 14c/d in one day. About a week after that he also onsighted the first ascent of a 14c, which is considered hard for the grade by the route's bolter and others who had previously worked on it. Paxti is someone I hold in high esteem because he's one of those guys that's really worked hard to get where he is, so him showcasing his hard work was fairly inspring in my opinion.
Speaking of another guy that really trains hard, just remembered off the top of my head Dani Andrada's first ascent of the full Ali-Baba cave route, rated 5.15b by Andrada and considered by David Graham to be even harder at 5.15c.
There's been some hard ice and winter ascents done recently as well but my memory for that stuff is poor as I live in Texas and don't have the privilege of being able to be invovled in that aspect of the sport.
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shockabuku
Dec 28, 2007, 7:47 AM
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angry wrote: I was talking to a friend about 2007 last week. As far as amazing feats performed by the climbing elite, it looks like most of them took 2007 off. Some stuff got climbed, sure. There's not much I can think of that really seems noteworthy. All I can think of is the sending of a hard boulder problem and the onsight of a hard sport route. Is that really it? Am I missing something?
Don't count on me for anything but, you've still got about four days for someone to rock your world!
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obe
Dec 28, 2007, 8:00 AM
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im still humbled when someone sends a 14. whats sick is when these cats onsight 2 14a's, flash 2 14b's, redpoint a 14c there third go, and send a 14d in one week. there were multiple stories like this throughout the year. and yes, 5.14 and V12 are being achieved now by many in the climbing community. but this should get us psyched knowing that some dude who has worked hard for ten years can send a 14a. its not somebody who in three years of climbing is doing the incredible because they are the natural for this kind of thing. this motivates
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escalabrasil
Dec 28, 2007, 8:05 AM
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Didn't Dave MacLeod do Rhapsody (E11, .14c R/X) in 2007? That definitely had me shaking my head.
Other than that, though, I agree with you...not much happened. At least nothing I can think of right now...
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