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eye_rock
Jan 3, 2008, 5:44 PM
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Registered: Sep 4, 2005
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has anybody bought anything from renob climbing? how's the quality? it looks like they got some cool stuff but I've never heard of them.
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Arrogant_Bastard
Jan 3, 2008, 5:56 PM
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Registered: Oct 31, 2007
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Oh... I thought Reno had his own website, where he 'b climbing'.
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billcoe_
Jan 3, 2008, 6:30 PM
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Registered: Jun 30, 2002
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He posts on RC.com as the user name Braxton. He is working on developing anchoring systems. He just sent me a few eye rings he's looking at to replace hangers. He should be testing them this month.
I expect they are far superior in roofs, but inferior on the vertical strengthwise due to leverage, but the tests will give the real numbers. I haven't taken them out and placed them yet, but they look burley as hell.
He has some various lengths of chain, same on wedge anchors, offers most stuff in type 316 (the best stainless), and has competitive prices.
He's developing a dowel system for epoxy anchoring that I suspect will be far superior to whats out there right now.
I suspect you'll be hearing a lot from him if he sticks with it. Thats all I know.
Braxton, post here and tell these guys what you are up to.
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braxtron
Jan 3, 2008, 7:26 PM
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Registered: Apr 9, 2003
Posts: 67
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The hangers Bill is referring to are seen here. They're incredibly strong (no welds!), though I don't know how resistant they are to lateral forces (pulling in a direction other than straight down). We're going to pull-test a few to make sure they (and the bolt they're mounted on) don't bend easily if they're not oriented properly.
As for the glue-in bolts, I've got data that suggest this style is far stronger than what is commonly used (Fixe, Petzl, etc.), but still uses the same hole and glue. Testing will support/refute this claim.
Lastly, there are crashpads. How would you like to buy a new crashpad every 10-15yrs? I have foam with a 15 year life expectancy (regular (ab)use). It weighs slightly more, but cushions falls better, than the usual closed/open cell foam combo. I'm considering selling this stuff by itself as "replacement foam", since it seems like the crashpad shell typically lasts longer than the foam, and this approach would be cheaper than buying a whole new rig. This foam is currently being field-tested to see how resilient it really is.
If anybody is interested in lab- or field-testing these items, please email me: info@renobclimbing.com.
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tradklime
Jan 4, 2008, 4:12 PM
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Registered: Aug 2, 2002
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braxtron wrote: The hangers Bill is referring to are seen here. They're incredibly strong (no welds!), though I don't know how resistant they are to lateral forces (pulling in a direction other than straight down). We're going to pull-test a few to make sure they (and the bolt they're mounted on) don't bend easily if they're not oriented properly.
Braxton, assuming the tests show the hangers are sufficiently strong, what advantages do they have in use? I can see the advantage in roof placements, but in a position to receive a lateral load I'm not sure. Also, I'm wondering about placement. Since they take the place of the nut on a wedge anchor, how do you determine the amount of torque applied to the bolt, and if you tighten it to proper torque, what if the hanger is not oriented in the direction of the fall?
Thanks
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braxtron
Jan 5, 2008, 4:42 AM
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Registered: Apr 9, 2003
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Here's a short list of why these hangers may turn out to be an improvement:
1. Larger clipping area (bigger hole).
2. Made of better steel (316SS = more corrosion resistant).
3. Smaller footprint on the rock (can go in more places).
4. Thicker & stronger.
5. Emergency-rappel friendly (no need to leave a bail 'biner).
I'm working on how to easily get the proper torque on wedge bolts with these things. You're right, it would suck to have the bolt reach the required torque and have the hanger oriented incorrectly.
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