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UtahScott
Jan 10, 2008, 8:10 PM
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Registered: Dec 11, 2007
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Hope these don't get boring....
So, when the A2 pulley went (ring finger) it sounded like I stepped on bubble wrap. As seems to be normal, there was no pain, just numbness. Took two weeks of rest (no climbing) and have been leading gym routes in the 5.10 range for the past couple of weeks (with finger taped) to try to get back to normal. There never has been much pain, even when climbing, but it is sensitive to applied pressure, and doesn't really seem to be improving week to week. After four-ish weeks I'm left wondering how severe the sprain/tear may actually have been. Anyone out there have any ideas? If it was a bad tear, would I be able to climb, or is being able to climb evidence that it may have only been a partial tear or something less? Thanks, fellow self-medicators.
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onceahardman
Jan 10, 2008, 8:35 PM
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In reply to: there was no pain, just numbness.
In reply to: doesn't really seem to be improving week to week.
so, it's still numb, then? or is it point tender when you poke it? (sensitive to palpation)?
were you crimping when it popped? have you crimped on the same hold since? (ie, are you applying the same force as initial injury, but pain-free?)
a good tape job (re-tape after every few gym routes-tape stretches) takes quite a bit of stress off the pulleys. If it still hurts, its not completely healed...maybe 3-6 months.
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UtahScott
Jan 10, 2008, 8:40 PM
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Hey, thanks...I just realized many answers may exist in a similar thread here. Yes, it was an overhanging crimper match, with almost all my body weight on it. I'm thinking it sounded worse than it feels/worse than it is...hopefully. No numbness, just tenderness when I put pressure on it with another finger. Have not crimped, and not planning to do so for a while.
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phoenixson
Jan 15, 2008, 5:42 AM
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I had my first finger injury recently and it sounds very similar to what you've experienced. In my case however, there was only slight numbness right after the pop occurred but no pain and the numbness went away fast to be followed by soreness. The only effects that I am feeling now, 3 days after it happened, is slight tenderness when I use that finger. I haven't tried to crimp yet and will probably wait at least another week to do so.
Where did you find more info on this topic? I am wondering how concerned I should be about this injury since it doesn't seem that serious.
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UtahScott
Jan 15, 2008, 5:01 PM
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Couple of good sources of info...one is another thread on this site about permanent finger effects or something...it should appear on the same forum page as this thread. Another site is http://www.climbinginjuries.com/Finger.htm.
Basic info, but worthy for rehab. After re-inflaming my pulley while skiing last weekend (untaped) I'd recommend taping the finger whenever you do anything that might apply any kind of pressure or force to it. Good luck...this injury sucks arse.
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