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borntorocku
Jan 31, 2008, 8:13 PM
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I have recently added ARCing to my training. I personally I don't like traverses, but have access to a gym with 6 different autobelays and many easy routes (don't get too jealous there are no hard routes at the gym). I get more pumped when I down climb the routes. Sometimes I get pumped when I down climb the jug hauls. (I am working on my down climbing skills.)
Is down climbing or getting lowered quickly by the autobelays better for ARCing?
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rockprodigy
Feb 1, 2008, 5:39 PM
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Downclimbing is better, but be careful not to over-extend your elbows and shoulders.
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texasclimber
Feb 1, 2008, 7:50 PM
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Downclimbing is definitely harder. When ARCing, I always downclimb. Although, I have seen better results with doing slightly harder routes for 10 minutes than easy routes for 30 minutes. Or maybe i just tell myself that b/c 30 minutes of continuous climbing takes all the fun out of life!
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gblauer
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Feb 7, 2008, 3:40 PM
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I typically ARC when I am roped up, we will do 30-45 minutes at a time. I think you are supposed to ARC below your pump level, so be careful when you pick your wall. That said, we usually climb all over the wall (up, down, sideways) and to break it up, we do drills. My belayer will call the drill when I am fairly close to the ground (soft hands, quiet feet, back steps all the way up, rock overs etc) and I comply. The other thing we do is we wear layers while we climb. We shed the layers enroute, hanging the clothing off holds and re-dress when we come back to the clothing. We do this with our shirts only! Why do we do this? It breaks up te climbing and you have to get in good/efficient "clipping" stances to hang on long enough to dress/undress. It's goofy, but it adds an element of fun to our workout. It's funny how many questions we get asked by non climbers about it...
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jamesdebella
Feb 7, 2008, 6:30 PM
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That's one of the best training tips I've heard in a while. Seriously! It makes lots of practical sense and it keeps it interesting. Hats off (or should I say shirts off) to you.
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jmvc
Feb 9, 2008, 2:20 PM
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Forgive my ignorance, but what is ARCing?
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Mike805
Feb 10, 2008, 5:47 PM
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How do you downclimb with an auto-belay?
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petsfed
Feb 10, 2008, 6:03 PM
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texasclimber wrote: Downclimbing is definitely harder. When ARCing, I always downclimb. Although, I have seen better results with doing slightly harder routes for 10 minutes than easy routes for 30 minutes. Or maybe i just tell myself that b/c 30 minutes of continuous climbing takes all the fun out of life!
You mean 30 minutes of continuous climbing in the gym takes the fun out of your life.
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penguinator
Feb 10, 2008, 9:08 PM
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I am wondering about downclimbing with Autobelayers... the safety method of the autobelays at my gym mean that you are almost always supported by the lowering of the autobelayer. Makes it much easier and feels like cheating, so I never really do it. I prefer traverses because of it.
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borntorocku
Feb 11, 2008, 5:43 PM
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The autobelay does take a small amount of weight off. I adjust the difficulty of my climbing proportionally. Since I use them for training, I don't think it is cheating.
I am training for climbing routes, not traverses, therefore it is better to practice vertical motor programs.
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texasclimber
Feb 19, 2008, 10:50 PM
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petsfed wrote: texasclimber wrote: Downclimbing is definitely harder. When ARCing, I always downclimb. Although, I have seen better results with doing slightly harder routes for 10 minutes than easy routes for 30 minutes. Or maybe i just tell myself that b/c 30 minutes of continuous climbing takes all the fun out of life! You mean 30 minutes of continuous climbing in the gym takes the fun out of your life.
I don't really ARC outside b/c that is when I would rather push for onsights and redpoints. Does anyone really "train" outside with ARCing? Besides, it is winter here, and outside is not an option. So, yes...in the gym ARCing sucks!
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