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Laplante
Feb 22, 2008, 1:44 PM
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I am a beginning climber trained under a climber with 40 years plus experience. I am just out of my first year and leading 5.7 easily. However, I am currently deployed to Iraq and am building a bouldering cave to keep in shape along with my rock rings and hang board training. I am able to use a regular gym twice a day and steadily use cross fit. what routes can I set in the cave to keep My leading skills sharpened? Any Ideas?
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epoch
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Feb 22, 2008, 1:49 PM
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Moved from General to T&T.
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colatownkid
Feb 22, 2008, 1:57 PM
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depends on what you want to stay sharp at. in other words, if you want to get sick at cranking overhanging bouldering problems, set overhanging crimp-fests. if you want to be able to open-hand anything, make them all slopers, etc.
as far as actually maintaining your lead skills, that's kinda hard to do in a bouldering cave. about the only thing that will help your lead head is leading.
if you're just looking for general training information, feel free to PM and i can recommend some other things you could use your bouldering cave for. (unless of course you can get access to books like "The Self-Coached Climber" and "Training for Climbing," but i imagine that's rather difficult in iraq.)
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Laplante
Feb 22, 2008, 2:53 PM
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The big thing I am trying to improve is strength in my fingers to maintain my level of climbing. I understand that honing in my leading skills here are probably not going to happen, although all I can do now is keep reading freedom of the hills over and over again, and I practice knots quite often. I was curious about the strength. I can handle climbing second on most 5.10 routes. However I am terrified that when I get home after 15 months in Iraq that apathy will have set in and ruined my technique. I guess basically I was looking for any set route sequence or a couple of specific holds to replicate the horizontals of the gunks, or a way to boulder and improve strength for the cracks in the adirondacks. Thanks for the help.
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Climbnkev
Feb 23, 2008, 3:41 AM
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Check out http://www.moonclimbing.com/SchoolRoom.aspx, they have actual boulder problems that you can set up if you configure your bouldering cave as a moon board. This may be a good way to help you get a good bouldering wall set up.
I would also recomend attaching a few quickdraws to the board that you can practice clipping a short rope tied to your waist to.
Most important is to find some other people who are interested in working out on your board with you. You can teach them what you know about climbing, and together you will be able to come up with much more interesting boulder problems and workouts. In general if you workout on a climbing wall in a vaccuum you will make the same type of problems that suit your strengths, so having several people setting problems will mix it up.
Most important is to make sure your wall is big enough to motivate you to climb, otherwise you would be better of just working out on a hangboard.
Good luck!
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Laplante
Feb 23, 2008, 2:56 PM
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Yes thank you for the help. I know I always need to work on quiet feet, and having some other climbers here will be a huge help with working on my weaknesses. Thanks for the web site. I will definately check it out.
Beginners practice until they get it right, Professionals practice until they can't get it wrong
(This post was edited by Laplante on Feb 23, 2008, 2:58 PM)
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