When fresh, I can get bomber fingers in tight yellow alien/metolius (very tight .4 camalot) cracks. After a few days, this is very much impossible.
It's always from the base of the knuckle to the second knuckle. There's no swelling in front of that, meaning I can still climb tips even fully puffed. The swelling has yet to give me an advantage on .5 or .75, so it's not a superpower.
Obviously the swelling is worse if there is skin damage (there always is).
It takes 2 days for minor swelling to go down and up to a week if I'm fully worked.
I'm not asking a question about how to deal with swollen fingers. I think I do the best I can with what time I have. I'm just curious if others have similar issues. I find myself requiring rest days due to this more than for fatigue.
My fingers swell up in the same area when I climb really hard crimpers and pinches. It usually happens when Im bouldering pretty hard, but overuse on easy stuff will do it too. I just give them some rest and take some vitamin I (Ibuprofen).
I get it too. Tendonitis. For me its always swelling around the pad at the first knuckle of my ring fingers. I get it in the winter when I am training on plastic (especially anything juggy). Once I start getting outside in Feb., the swelling goes away since I mostly climb cracks. All my fingers get a little puffy when I climb all day long. Good hydration and stretching after climbing helps recovery and lessens swelling.
I had it so bad on my right ring finger last winter, I couldn't climb for 6-8 weeks. I had to splint and totally not use the finger (good thing I'm left handed).
Sometimes when I'm climbing my balls swell up. I don't think it is a super power either,but I do find myself running it out quite a bit. One time last season my balls swelled up so good, I did my hardest free solo to date. Like you, it tends to take a couple of days to subside, but if I have victory sex after a climb then it can take as long as a week for the swelling to come down! This same thing happened to my head on occasion, when I was younger, but now I'm wiser so......not so much
Interesting timing of this post resurfacing.There is an article in R and I April about synovitis and arthritis. And how to treat them.Even if this is not the problem there is worthwhile advice for finger health.
4 /
14%
One time last season my balls swelled up so good, I did my hardest free solo to date. Like you, it tends to take a couple of days to subside, but if I have victory sex after a climb then it can take as long as a week for the swelling to come down! This same thing happened to my head on occasion, when I was younger, but now I'm wiser so......not so much
