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CaptainPolution
Mar 13, 2008, 10:52 PM
Post #26 of 46
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Registered: Jul 10, 2007
Posts: 330
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jt512 wrote: CaptainPolution wrote: Just need to make sure this is correct before I try and use protection on a real climb. Do I need the whole cam in the crack or can it just be part of it? [image]http://www.rockclimbing.com/images/photos/assets/9/370849-largest_cossumnes_007.jpg[/image] Yes, that's the new recommended placement, as it is the only way to be sure that the Alien won't break in the event of a fall. Jay
LOL! good point i suppose
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salamanizer
Mar 14, 2008, 5:08 AM
Post #27 of 46
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Registered: Jul 3, 2004
Posts: 879
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I've aided on similar placements. It worked.
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skiclimb
Mar 14, 2008, 5:13 AM
Post #28 of 46
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Registered: Jan 11, 2004
Posts: 1938
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Absolutely bomber. Please say hello to Darwin for me if you meet him sometime soon.
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silentwarior125
Mar 14, 2008, 5:18 AM
Post #29 of 46
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Registered: May 29, 2007
Posts: 20
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no no no you need a hammer in placements like this where you hit it in till it is all nice and snug. but you need to be careful about the ethics of the area bc this scars the rock when removing it. also send it to me for testing it may be a bad alien.
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curt
Mar 14, 2008, 5:27 AM
Post #30 of 46
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silentwarior125 wrote: no no no you need a hammer in placements like this where you hit it in till it is all nice and snug. but you need to be careful about the ethics of the area bc this scars the rock when removing it. also send it to me for testing it may be a bad alien.
Amen. All you need to do is hammer that thing in till it rings.
Curt
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Sin
Mar 14, 2008, 3:34 PM
Post #31 of 46
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Registered: Apr 17, 2007
Posts: 236
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I hope ur kidding, for your lifes sake,.........First, I just started trad and even i know that this placement will give you a direct board meeting with Jesus.......second if this is your only means of learning how to place pro (rc.com) then dont climb trad at all..........got guide?
-Sin
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yokese
Mar 14, 2008, 4:13 PM
Post #32 of 46
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Registered: Jan 18, 2006
Posts: 672
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markc wrote: Anybody remember the Splitter Gear 4cams? IIRC, they could be placed with only two lobes engaged.
Have also a look at the last version of the Trango Flex cams. The direct-offset design on the small ones allow to place them using just one pair of cams and still are able to catch a "reasonable" fall.
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shimanilami
Mar 14, 2008, 4:28 PM
Post #33 of 46
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I've stood on worse placements than that. At least the load axis is all right.
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CaptainPolution
Mar 14, 2008, 8:28 PM
Post #34 of 46
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Registered: Jul 10, 2007
Posts: 330
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silentwarior125 wrote: no no no you need a hammer in placements like this where you hit it in till it is all nice and snug. but you need to be careful about the ethics of the area bc this scars the rock when removing it. also send it to me for testing it may be a bad alien.
what kind of hammer do I need? like a carpenters hammer? what do I use the claw for?
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dingus
Mar 14, 2008, 8:33 PM
Post #35 of 46
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Registered: Dec 16, 2002
Posts: 17398
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U kneed the pike uh proh!
DMT
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rangerrob
Mar 14, 2008, 8:40 PM
Post #37 of 46
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Registered: Apr 8, 2003
Posts: 641
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What's with the references to the lawfirm website again?????
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happiegrrrl
Mar 14, 2008, 8:42 PM
Post #38 of 46
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Registered: Mar 25, 2004
Posts: 4660
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Do you think they'll sue us for misuse of their name?
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CaptainPolution
Mar 14, 2008, 8:58 PM
Post #39 of 46
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Registered: Jul 10, 2007
Posts: 330
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happiegrrrl wrote: CaptainPolution wrote: what kind of hammer do I need? like a carpenters hammer? what do I use the claw for? Duh - To open the Spam. Any rc.commer could figure that out. Go back to the Beginner's forum and learn the basics....
I should have known! I havent started using this "spam" yet. go figure  
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CaptainPolution
Mar 14, 2008, 9:03 PM
Post #40 of 46
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Registered: Jul 10, 2007
Posts: 330
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dingus wrote: U kneed the pike uh proh! [img]http://brighttotsonline.com/images/silly_sounds_hammer.gif[/img] DMT
can this also be used to hammer nuts in the rock? im really confused on how all of this works.
I guess I will figure it out when I climb this weekend. someone said this 5.12 crack was pretty easy so imma go for it!
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irregularpanda
Mar 14, 2008, 9:42 PM
Post #41 of 46
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Registered: Mar 13, 2007
Posts: 1364
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god damn I'm bored.
I wanna climb, no more mid-terms
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CaptainPolution
Mar 14, 2008, 11:30 PM
Post #43 of 46
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Registered: Jul 10, 2007
Posts: 330
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j_ung wrote: Sin wrote: I hope ur kidding, for your lifes sake,.........First, I just started trad and even i know that this placement will give you a direct board meeting with Jesus.......second if this is your only means of learning how to place pro (rc.com) then dont climb trad at all..........got guide? -Sin TROLL STATUS: Near total failure. You got one noobie who thinks there's a chance you might be serious, even though you all but said you aren't and everybody else smelled you out like an unrefrigerated 2-week-gone corpse in a deodorant factory. Good show! 
You know, I try my best. 
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Sin
Mar 16, 2008, 3:04 AM
Post #44 of 46
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Registered: Apr 17, 2007
Posts: 236
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Well then we should definitly have a dumbass section, being that this is a site to ask and expect honest opinions and questions. Placing this in general really wont help "us" newbies anymore than that guide on expert village.
Cheers
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Sin
Mar 16, 2008, 3:13 AM
Post #45 of 46
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Registered: Apr 17, 2007
Posts: 236
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Occupation: house maid
Interests: vinegar douches and big cabooses
Email: donteamailmedouchebag@yousuckballs.ass
More Info:
I love to climb and mtb and fucking metal kill anybody
Climbing Profile
Skills:
Lead | Follow Trad: 5.7 5.15d
Sport: 5.11d 5.13d
Boulder: V1
Aid: A3+ A6
City:
State: California
Country: United States
Besides this through me off follow .15d trad but followin .13d sport?????????
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