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rockvaulter
Apr 5, 2008, 4:10 AM
Post #1 of 7
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Registered: Oct 10, 2006
Posts: 128
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I know this subject has been brought up alot no doubt, but I was wondering if i could get some info on Devils Tower. Me and my friend want to take a trip out west before we start as climbing instructors at a local camp in Eastern Tennessee. Pretty much we will be tramping around for 2 weeks. I suggested we go to Devils Tower because it has always stuck in my mind when I was little.
To give background, I am a 5.10+ climber, while my partner easily gets up 5.12's and has done a 5.13, but almost all his climbs are sport, while almost all mine are Trad. I have lead a 5.9+ trad, onsight nonetheless and 5.8 sport (i only lead once). He has lead trad, but only a 5.7 but his sports lead was a 5.11 in Stephen's Kings library at Obed. We have climbed with each other alot, such as the Bridge Buttress at the New and the Library at Obed. And tons of locals at the camp we work out.
I was wondering if A. do you think the 2 of us could handle a 7 pitch climb at 5.8 (Durrance) and B. what we would need. He pretty much has a sports rack, lots of draws, while i have a good bunch of nuts and 2 cams. I work at EMS so i get massive discounts so buying more isn't a problem, but I was wondering what exaclty we need to climb Durrance early May. And if anyone would like to join us your more than welcome!
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therat
Apr 22, 2008, 10:42 PM
Post #2 of 7
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Registered: Apr 4, 2005
Posts: 64
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Durrance Route:
Quickdraws: 8.
Shoulder Length Runners: 4.
BD Camalots: 1-#.5; 2-#.75; 2-#1; 1-#2; 1-#3; 1-#4; and even a place for 1-#5 if you so choose.
BD Stoppers: full set.
Wired Hexcentric: 1-#1; 1-#2 (Opening moves of "Cussing Crack")
This rack would serve you well.
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tharlow
Apr 23, 2008, 10:48 PM
Post #3 of 7
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Registered: Sep 13, 2005
Posts: 37
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I agree with therat regarding the rack, if you are new to leading trad, might want the #5 camalot for piece of mind on the 3rd, maybe 4th pitch. If you plan on the Durrance route, get there early or wait in line. On a busy day, you should be hitting the approach before sunrise.
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rockvaulter
Apr 24, 2008, 5:20 AM
Post #4 of 7
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Registered: Oct 10, 2006
Posts: 128
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Thanks guys. I have been told to get 12+ cams, and well, as much as I would love to have that many cams...I dont have 500 bucks laying around. I am trying to do my best to get the most gear that will actually be used.
I have lead before, only a 5.9 and it was about 70-80 feet. It was actaully my first trad climb, and I was baptisted by fire. Looking back at it with my knowledge know, I did some pretty stupid things. But hey, live and let learn (though if that last 12 nut popped out...)
I think I am gonna buy #2-4 but doubles I dont think I can afford. And I guess not having a 2's and 1's wount kill me (I know famous last words.) I don't want to run out my pro, or even run out of it all together.
I was wondering, will I have to set lots of multi directional anchors. Is there lots of sketchy parts where I will be using 3 or more nuts/cams just to get bomber placement. Are their permanent rappel stations.
Im guessing a guide book would tell me all this. But I live in cape cod...and well thats about 1200 miles from DT.
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tharlow
Apr 24, 2008, 1:38 PM
Post #5 of 7
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Registered: Sep 13, 2005
Posts: 37
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Dude, there is a bolted anchor at the end of every pitch, no anchors to set up and easy to retreat. But you will piss off the parties below if you throw your ropes on top of them as you rap the route. The first 2 times I led this route, it was with 2 sets of nuts and a set of hexes, no cams. I was worried about locating the rap stations the first time I was there, and you have to be careful pulling the ropes on the rap. Get a copy of the instructions for the locating these anchors and take it with you. Yeah, I know that you are 1200 miles away, but seriously, go to a climbing shop, internet, something, suck it up, and buy the guide book.
(This post was edited by tharlow on Apr 24, 2008, 1:40 PM)
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rockvaulter
Apr 24, 2008, 2:33 PM
Post #6 of 7
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Registered: Oct 10, 2006
Posts: 128
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Tharlow, I def. intend to buy the guide book. But I have looked everywhere on Cape Cod for it, but not luck. When we finally got out west, I was planning on buying it there and studying it front and back when we are climbing Moab and hiking.
I figure once I get to Denver or even Kansas I will be able to find a good climbing shop that will have the guide books. Please don't worry, I am not foolhearty enough to climb a sacred monument with no beta. Thats just silly!
Thanks again.
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EvilMonkey
May 21, 2008, 8:41 PM
Post #7 of 7
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Registered: Mar 19, 2008
Posts: 195
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rockvaulter wrote: Please don't worry, I am not foolhearty enough to climb a sacred monument with no beta. Thats just silly! Thanks again.
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