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ellingwood
Apr 15, 2008, 3:18 AM
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Registered: Sep 9, 2006
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when was this placed offed to climbing ?
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cordata
Apr 15, 2008, 3:52 AM
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Stone Mountain Georgia has been closed to climbing for many years. (effectively forever). You may be thinking of Stone Mountain North Carolina which is open to climbing.
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subantz
Apr 15, 2008, 2:32 PM
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I had spent a day walking around this place. Walking around looking for boulders and visible lines from the ground., but had to stop and go back to the car, because the rock tore my dogs feet up so bad she had flappers on 3 of the 4 paws. Needless to say I walked around half of the mountain and didnt see one boulder. I saw a promising face at the same time I spoted my dogs injury. It was past the old quarry. I also spoted the rays of iron traverse. If you fall there its going to hurt there's another ledge at the base of your fall.
I look forward to looking around some more. I think I saw on SEC.com that they said there used to be routes on the mountain. Its alot of slab climbing. but when I finish my hunting I hope to find more I have alot of ground to cover. and you cant climb. So its not a top priority. I just like the exploring close to home. when I did an internet search it was very limited and the information was useless. Any how this place could be fun with Multi-pitch routes from easy to hard. Someone has to get a hold of the right people. When I called to see if any rules have changed about the climbing here I got an answering service. That I could not navigate through in 30 minutes so there it is. But its a nice mountain I just don't like takeing the stupid trail to the top.
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saxfiend
Apr 15, 2008, 5:32 PM
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The chances of Stone Mountain (GA) ever being opened to climbing are somewhat similar to the prospects for world peace and colonization of Mars. The owners won't even discuss the matter.
If you want to experience great Stone Mountain climbing, go to the one in North Carolina. Aside from being open to climbing, it hasn't been turned into a version of Disneyland like the one in Georgia.
JL
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knieveltech
Apr 15, 2008, 5:36 PM
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saxfiend wrote: The chances of Stone Mountain (GA) ever being opened to climbing are somewhat similar to the prospects for world peace and colonization of Mars. The owners won't even discuss the matter. If you want to experience great Stone Mountain climbing, go to the one in North Carolina. Aside from being open to climbing, it hasn't been turned into a version of Disneyland like the one in Georgia. JL
So what killed access there in the first place?
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saxfiend
Apr 15, 2008, 7:33 PM
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knieveltech wrote: So what killed access there in the first place?
I corresponded with John Gill a while back about climbing history at Stone Mountain; he had done some climbing there back in the 50s or 60s. From the way he described things, it doesn't sound like we're missing much.
JL
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knieveltech
Apr 15, 2008, 8:09 PM
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saxfiend wrote: knieveltech wrote: So what killed access there in the first place? I don't know the history in detail, but I would imagine climbing got killed when it was bought by the state and made into a theme park. The private company that the state has hired to run it has a lot more interest in profits than in potential insurance risks; rock climbing provides almost none of the former and plenty of the latter. I corresponded with John Gill a while back about climbing history at Stone Mountain; he had done some climbing there back in the 50s or 60s. From the way he described things, it doesn't sound like we're missing much. JL
Ah. Thanks for the followup. Sounds similar to Chimney Rock in NC.
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ellingwood
Apr 17, 2008, 1:14 AM
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Registered: Sep 9, 2006
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thanks for the feedback, it was north carolina I was thinking of.
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ja1484
Apr 17, 2008, 1:54 AM
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Registered: Aug 11, 2006
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knieveltech wrote: saxfiend wrote: knieveltech wrote: So what killed access there in the first place? I don't know the history in detail, but I would imagine climbing got killed when it was bought by the state and made into a theme park. The private company that the state has hired to run it has a lot more interest in profits than in potential insurance risks; rock climbing provides almost none of the former and plenty of the latter. I corresponded with John Gill a while back about climbing history at Stone Mountain; he had done some climbing there back in the 50s or 60s. From the way he described things, it doesn't sound like we're missing much. JL Ah. Thanks for the followup. Sounds similar to Chimney Rock in NC.
Except that according to available sources, we ARE missing quite a bit without access to Chimney Rock park. Apparently, the climbing there is excellent.
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knieveltech
Apr 17, 2008, 1:56 AM
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ja1484 wrote: knieveltech wrote: saxfiend wrote: knieveltech wrote: So what killed access there in the first place? I don't know the history in detail, but I would imagine climbing got killed when it was bought by the state and made into a theme park. The private company that the state has hired to run it has a lot more interest in profits than in potential insurance risks; rock climbing provides almost none of the former and plenty of the latter. I corresponded with John Gill a while back about climbing history at Stone Mountain; he had done some climbing there back in the 50s or 60s. From the way he described things, it doesn't sound like we're missing much. JL Ah. Thanks for the followup. Sounds similar to Chimney Rock in NC. Except that according to available sources, we ARE missing quite a bit without access to Chimney Rock park. Apparently, the climbing there is excellent.
It definitely looked excellent the last time I was there. Sadly I was just hiking. It might even be worth ponying up the $$$ for FMG.
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ja1484
Apr 17, 2008, 2:30 AM
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knieveltech wrote: ja1484 wrote: knieveltech wrote: saxfiend wrote: knieveltech wrote: So what killed access there in the first place? I don't know the history in detail, but I would imagine climbing got killed when it was bought by the state and made into a theme park. The private company that the state has hired to run it has a lot more interest in profits than in potential insurance risks; rock climbing provides almost none of the former and plenty of the latter. I corresponded with John Gill a while back about climbing history at Stone Mountain; he had done some climbing there back in the 50s or 60s. From the way he described things, it doesn't sound like we're missing much. JL Ah. Thanks for the followup. Sounds similar to Chimney Rock in NC. Except that according to available sources, we ARE missing quite a bit without access to Chimney Rock park. Apparently, the climbing there is excellent. It definitely looked excellent the last time I was there. Sadly I was just hiking. It might even be worth ponying up the $$$ for FMG.
No way I'm paying to be guided in Chimney Rock with the absurd amount of free stone in NC. That said, if you're fairly new to trad, you might actually get your money's worth for the education along with the climbing.
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rockitjeff
Apr 18, 2008, 6:45 PM
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Hey All,
I had the misfortune to live in the ATL/ Gwinnett County for 10 years (back In Cali now….).. For most of it, I lived close to Stone Mt. and made it my de facto playground.
In terms of routes, there would be a ton of slab climbing if bolting and climbing were allowed. But it is not….. a shame because these climbs would offer some very sweet suburban climbing. Multi-pitch face climbs minutes from home. The faces to the left of the carving in particular would yield some stiff outings. Further left and right of the carvings as the angle eases, 5.8 face routes appear likely. If you’ve got a good free solo head, you can piece together moderate-to- bold routes to ascend these margins 100 yards from the carvings. I’ve heard tales through the years of hairball 5.8….
Easier free soloing (4th class or 5.0) is found on the golden south face opposite side of the carving. The route I tended to take ascends up the region to the right of the “Wave Wall” – a 30’ overhanging feature 2/3rds up the middle of the South Face.
Toping roping the Wave Wall is feasible, I am sure. I never did, but there appear a couple variations to the same top-out. Pin scars visible from an earlier era. Route actually is slightly overhanging, so 5.10+?
I did top rope a 30’ high quarried wall on which faces South West located on the East side of the largest quarried area. Maybe 5.7 or so. Mildly fun. There is an old bolt on the top of this cliff (of course did not trust it; backed it up w/ anchors…). However, I recall being visible towards the top of the crag by passengers on the train ride. Which leads to the issue of what happens if they catch you? Lots.
Let’s talk about the biggest Tools in the ‘hood. Since Stone Mt. is administered by the state, the Stone Mt. Park police actually have the full authority that any municipal police have (guns, right to arrest, etc..). And they are bored. And they want action. Once while trail running around the park, I encountered 5 (!) cop cars parked in an out-of-the-way area near the quarried South Face. “What’s up?” asked me. “Climbers”, replied the cop. I did not ask them about consequences, but I’d heard that in addition to being booked at the Stone Mountain City Jail (where you likely need to be bailed out for what is likely misdemeanor trespass), rumor is they confiscate your gear.
Bouldering is about the only climber fun to have on Stone Mtn, and it’s weak fun at best. The main quarry has a perfect 12’ x 12” face that offers basically 3 obvious lines and a couple variation. The left margin is actually almost a highball V3. The 11’ wall to it’s left also offers a V1 and a few traverse moves.
The quarried section to the East of the main quarry has Stinky Lizard’s V4 “Rays of Light” (seen on the rc.com Stone Mtn page). The comprises about 50’ of climbing.
There is a small quarried section on the East side that is about 60’ wide and 8’ – 12’ high. An assortment of 3 move problems (and a traverse) can offer easy fun.
The base of the Wave Wall is 40’ long and contains traverse moves I’d guess get into V6, V8 (V-beyond me..), in addition to sections of V1- V3. The entire traverse is likely a true worthwhile high-end endurance problem. Only bummer is you are about a foot off the ground.
Thank god I am back in CA, is all I can say…
(This post was edited by rockitjeff on Apr 18, 2008, 6:55 PM)
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