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b_doornenbal
Apr 25, 2008, 5:16 PM
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I have a shop made with 2x6 walls on 16 inch centers. The walls are 10.5 feet high and Sheeted with 7/16 OSB. I am thinking I want to build a small wall like 8ft wide that is 10.5 ft high and about 10-15 feet along the ceiling.
I was wondering what peoples thoughts were about just drilling and bolting into the studs and Trusses where I want to put the holds????????. I would use lag bolts directly into the wood. In places where an extra hold is needed then would make stronger with plywood.
I just don't want to add 3/4 inch plywood over top of the osb but if I need to I will.
I am not planing on changing these as it is more for training as well can just make the wall bigger (the shop is 32ftx54ft) so lots of room and lots of roof.
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AlexCV
Apr 25, 2008, 5:48 PM
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How would you bolt holds straight into the OSB? Take the sheet off and put in t-nuts? 7/16 is pretty thin and I'd be worried about ripping the holds off, especially ceiling holds and anything you dyno too.
In the case of the studs, they're strong enough but how will screw the holds in? They don't use wood threads normally so the holding power would be suspect.
Just put a few 2x4 perpendicular to the studs and trusses and screw the 3/4" ply with t-nuts to the 2x4. Or take out the OSB and replace it with 3/4" ply with t-nuts. Another issue is that this will give you a vertical wall and a 90 degree roof and nothing in between so maybe you want to look at an intermediate angled section for the upper part of the wall and that will need good anchoring.
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b_doornenbal
Apr 25, 2008, 6:24 PM
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Sorry for the confusion. I was not planing on using the T nuts I did not realize the the holes through the holds are threaded?? are they??. If so this plan will not work and I will have to add 3/4 inch plywood to my wall with tnuts installed.
As for screwing in I was going to use lag bolts for wood and put them direct into the studs. This would mean that holds would only be located on the stud lines going up the wall and on the trusses across the roof.
I know this may be awkward but do you think it will work??
The 90 roof line may get cleaned up over time but for now was just going to tolerate it.
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AlexCV
Apr 25, 2008, 6:36 PM
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The hole through the holds are not threaded. The T-nuts are threaded and nailed on the backside of the plywood. The holds are then held in place by bolts. I've found the most useful is one t-nut every 6-8 inches or so (in all directions). Either a square grid or a pattern that's a bit less regular that gets repeated along the wall. Holds 16" apart will quickly limit what you do.
Lag bolts would work as long as they (a) fit in the recessed hole on the holds and (b) can be tightened once they're in that hole.
Maybe you want to buy a few holds now and see what would work for fastening with your setup? You might also want to get a bunch of jibs too (small foot (or tenuous hand) holds that screw directly into the plywood).
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kimsismour
Apr 25, 2008, 6:41 PM
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I built a climbing wall in a similar situation. I turned one of my spare bedrooms into a bouldering cave. How we did it:
We placed studs on top of the drywall, and screwed them in with 4 in screws to the origional studs. this basically gave us a platform. We then installed the 3/4 inch ply wood on top. By having the studs behind it gives you room for the bolts that you use for the holds, because some times the bolts are longer than what you need, and you will be able to use different bolts on different holds not having to worry about them sticking out.
You are going to want to go the t-nut route. This allows you to change the holds very easily. It is more cost, and takes some more time, but totally worth it in the end.
The advantage of how we set this up is if I ever move, I can unscrew my "panels" and bring them with me. Then repair the holes in the wall behind my studs.
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ironchefcampfire
May 8, 2008, 9:21 PM
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I would definitely recommend going the 3/4" plywood-usually AC grade and do 3/8" t-nuts on the back 8" on center (start 4" from edge of the sheet) or random. If you are not going to create angles then you can just put 2X4 sleepers on the wall (3 1/2" side to the wall is easiest in your case). If you are going to use bolt on holds you need space behind the ply for the bolts as they come long.
You could get away w/ screw on type holds on your current wall as long as you go into your studs and use longer screws you buy yourself (decking screws or similar- not drywall screws as the heads will snap really easy). You're going to have a hard time mounting most holds though as they accept cap heads or counter sunk flat head 3/8" bolts. Neither of these are readily available in lag bolts and when you are pulling on let's say a horn type hold you are basically using the hold as a pry bar on the bolt head.
For the roof, I think you have to go 3/4" ply, t-nut and bolt on period if you are going to do it. Check your span at the roof also. I don't know if you actually have trusses or beams but you'd be suprised the size of lumber you need for long spans.
In the long run, you'll be much happier with the t-nuts and ply as OSB is just so splinterific and after you smear or hit footholds a little rough its going to start chipping (definitely don't put t-nuts in it). Also, variety is the key. Even if it's just training you'll find you get board with the same routes quickly.
Hope this helps.
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