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devkrev
May 8, 2008, 12:09 PM
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Alex H in the creek
It will be interesting to see how far this guy takes it.
dev
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sjderis
May 8, 2008, 1:37 PM
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Nice climbing...Belly full of bad berries is a stout climb
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angry
May 8, 2008, 2:35 PM
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Registered: Jul 22, 2003
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Alex is nothing short of an inspiration.
The kid is gifted.
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8flood8
May 8, 2008, 3:00 PM
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^^
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wanderlustmd
May 8, 2008, 3:06 PM
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Dang, can't see the video.
Alex is pretty incredible, he's already practically on Reardon's level...
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bdbc
May 8, 2008, 7:46 PM
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i saw that video and was like "damn" i had seen simon carters pictures of Belly Full, but hadent seen it climbed. This just went to show how nuts that route really is.
As for Alex, i wouldn't be suprised to see him start into the .14's on gear, following a lot of sonnie trotters routes. he is for sure impressive as a climber though.
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yokese
May 8, 2008, 8:01 PM
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bdbc wrote: i saw that video and was like "damn" i had seen simon carters pictures of Belly Full, but hadent seen it climbed. This just went to show how nuts that route really is.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5UzoMJNVuwE
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cracklover
May 8, 2008, 8:04 PM
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Wow. Just... wow.
Thanks for sharing the vid.
GO
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boadman
May 9, 2008, 12:02 AM
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Seriously? Reardon was entertaining, but he didn't really climb that hard. This guy is already taking it up a notch.
I would be more inclined to compare him to Croft.
wanderlustmd wrote: Dang, can't see the video. Alex is pretty incredible, he's already practically on Reardon's level... |
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quiteatingmysteak
May 9, 2008, 12:25 AM
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boadman wrote: Seriously? Reardon was entertaining, but he didn't really climb that hard. This guy is already taking it up a notch. I would be more inclined to compare him to Croft. wanderlustmd wrote: Dang, can't see the video. Alex is pretty incredible, he's already practically on Reardon's level...
Its hard to compare climbers. He's definitely setting good precedents, which is awesome, but he's no Croft...
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Adrian_Falcus
May 9, 2008, 2:49 AM
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boadman wrote: Seriously? Reardon was entertaining, but he didn't really climb that hard. This guy is already taking it up a notch. I would be more inclined to compare him to Croft.
Wow, so I guess onsight soloing 5.13 no longer qualifies as climbing hard these days?
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coolcat83
May 9, 2008, 3:14 AM
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definitely a nice chill guy, with an impressive list of climbs.
question for all.
in the video it says he did an on sight attempt of belly, yet it seems like when he got to that sort of upside down move he knew what to do almost like he'd seen it before, it seems like something that wouldn't be obvious (maybe he's just that good). does it count as an on sight if you watch someone else do it on video?(like if he saw cedar do it) i would say no.
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angry
May 9, 2008, 3:32 AM
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coolcat83 wrote: definitely a nice chill guy, with an impressive list of climbs. question for all. in the video it says he did an on sight attempt of belly, yet it seems like when he got to that sort of upside down move he knew what to do almost like he'd seen it before, it seems like something that wouldn't be obvious (maybe he's just that good). does it count as an on sight if you watch someone else do it on video?(like if he saw cedar do it) i would say no.
Two things
1. This is one of the most photographed OW's in the world. Had he been living anywhere but in a cave, he would have known the meat of it was upside down. And if he'd ever climbed an OW roof, any OW roof, he would have known that an invert was going to be necessary right when it got bigger than fists.
This no more invalidates the send then a sport climber who knew he was going to have to crimp and step up. Bellyfull is a an easy route to read, just a hard route to put together. That he did it in 2 tries is extremely impressive.
2. Based on several eyewitness accounts, Cedar can't do this route so that is a poor example.
Alex watching Cedar to get beta would be akin to Audi engineers going over to Kia to learn how to build a car.
Edited to add, good thing this thread isn't about my attitude, I'm a total asshole.
(This post was edited by angry on May 9, 2008, 3:33 AM)
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camhead
May 9, 2008, 5:09 AM
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quiteatingmysteak wrote: boadman wrote: Seriously? Reardon was entertaining, but he didn't really climb that hard. This guy is already taking it up a notch. I would be more inclined to compare him to Croft. wanderlustmd wrote: Dang, can't see the video. Alex is pretty incredible, he's already practically on Reardon's level... Its hard to compare climbers. He's definitely setting good precedents, which is awesome, but he's no Croft...
please expand on why he is "no Croft."
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quiteatingmysteak
May 9, 2008, 6:28 AM
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camhead wrote: quiteatingmysteak wrote: boadman wrote: Seriously? Reardon was entertaining, but he didn't really climb that hard. This guy is already taking it up a notch. I would be more inclined to compare him to Croft. wanderlustmd wrote: Dang, can't see the video. Alex is pretty incredible, he's already practically on Reardon's level... Its hard to compare climbers. He's definitely setting good precedents, which is awesome, but he's no Croft... please expand on why he is "no Croft."
Numbers wise? He is a better climber than Croft. His numbers are higher numbers. Thats what its about, right?
Alex is a super badass. If I had his ability I would spray until everyones ears bled, I'll be honest. But some of the things he says are arrogant and flippant. These are just things I've read or heard on a video, I've never met him so its just a short observation. Hubris will hit him, and hit him hard.
Croft doesn't blog, doesn't spray. You rarely hear about his solo exploits because they are solo; thats just his style. So to compare Alex to Peter is to compare two different things. What makes Croft a great climber to me is his enchainments and what he's done on very big mountains.
I mean honestly, Alex has a 8a.nu lol. They are not two people you can easily compare. Who is a better climber, Dave Graham or Steve House? Dean Potter or Royal Robbins? Barber or Gerberding?
I'm not at all bashing Alex, I near shit my pants when I heard about some of the things he is doing. But its different... not just numbers.
If your curious why you don't hear much about peter croft, probably because in order to read about it you will have to climb this:
"Left the car around 5 this morning for a great day. Moon Goddess, Dark Star, Sun Ribbon and Venetian Blind. Ready for Cocktail hour!
-Peter Croft"
(This post was edited by quiteatingmysteak on May 9, 2008, 6:33 AM)
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JamesDaniels
May 11, 2008, 11:55 AM
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He's a really good climber! I don't know if you all may share my point of view, but I know I'd wish to be as good as this guy!
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