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Sh0rty
May 9, 2008, 8:07 AM
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Okay, I've been climbing in the gym for four days a week for about two-three weeks now and I am in love with climbing. Most of the routes seem too easy for me, the 5.9 routes don't provide that much challange anymore, and I've been working on a 5.10 route.
I'm not sure how difficult these routes really are. Are climbing these routes as a noob considered good?
I guess I'm asking, what level should I be at at this stage? I don't know how the rating system goes or anything.
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king_rat
May 9, 2008, 11:11 AM
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Don't worry to much about what grade you "should" be at. Different people progress at different rates depending on a range of factors. If what you are doing is challenging to you that is all that matters.
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WVUCLMBR
May 9, 2008, 11:26 AM
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I'm not sure if you know how the Yosemite Decimal System works....but you realize you are climbing stuff meant for 9-10 year olds? You should be climbing something in the 6.8b/c range by now.
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corson
May 9, 2008, 11:57 AM
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WVUCLMBR wrote: I'm not sure if you know how the Yosemite Decimal System works....but you realize you are climbing stuff meant for 9-10 year olds? You should be climbing something in the 6.8b/c range by now.
Dick.
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rogue10186
May 9, 2008, 12:08 PM
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Dude, fuck grades.
Also, you're in a gym, their ratings could be a bit "off" compared to grades outside, so you're better off not worrying about what you "should be able" to climb, and just go climb.
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evanwish
May 9, 2008, 2:07 PM
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just think about it as your starting point. inevitably you'll end up climbing beter the more you climb, so just make sure you push yourself to improve.
when you finally break into climbing 5.10's great now move on to trying 5.11's.
you'll see an extremely rapid growth in your climbing in under a year.
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richardvg03
May 9, 2008, 2:12 PM
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Go outside!
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caliclimbergrl
May 9, 2008, 4:13 PM
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I think it's more important to work on technique in the gym than grades. Those are pretty decent grades for a beginner, which makes me wonder if you already knew that and are just here looking to get your ego stroked. If that's the case, it's worthwhile to also say climbing in the gym and climbing outside are really two different animals and skills don't always transfer. Which is why it's better to focus on technique. I've seen quite a few beginners focus so much on grades that they'll search the gym for every 5.10 route and try some 11's as well, but their climbing is so sloppy.
When I say they have bad technique, here's what I mean: They'll flail up all of their climbs and may even get them clean for the most part. But they're scraping their feet all over the wall (your feet should be quiet and deliberately and delicately moved from hold to hold). They over-use high steps rather than smearing or edging on a feature which makes them overuse their arms (which means they'll wear out fast when climbing outside for a whole day rather than a few hours at the gym). They have their arms bent all the time rather than using straight arms to save strength when they're moving their feet (which will also have you pumped pretty quickly). They'll use way to many dynamic moves when a smooth static move would be more appropriate.
It's much better to smoothly work your way up some 8's and to have good technique and maybe flail your way up an occasional 10 to push yourself than to focus on 10's and flail all over every route you do because you think climbing harder is better. Certainly throw some hard routes into your routine at the gym, but mix it up a bit with routes you can climb more smoothly on if you really want to improve.
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corson
May 9, 2008, 10:20 PM
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rogue10186 wrote: Dude, fuck grades.
Whatever. Spoken like a true 5.10 climber.
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corson
May 9, 2008, 10:36 PM
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Sh0rty wrote: WVUCLMBR wrote: I'm not sure if you know how the Yosemite Decimal System works....but you realize you are climbing stuff meant for 9-10 year olds? You should be climbing something in the 6.8b/c range by now. You're so cool. I want to be you. Anyway, no i don't want 'ego stroked.' I am a girl at lack that anatomy  I have in all honesty been climbing for a month and have been curious as to what all the numbers mean. I understand climbing inside and out are two totally different things. I've been out twice with some people and we mostly boulder. But I don't have my car here so getting anywhere is a bit hard. I've just been traversing and working on getting stronger and making my moves as fluid as possible. I know I'm asking noob questions, but sorry, but some of you need to lighten up, I'm getting very turned off by the attitiude some individuals have in here.
first of all, start with having some fun. then work on getting stronger. If you really want to train, investigate some books on climbing.Start with freedom of the hills then progress to Goddard,maybr some Horst, and fluxes's book is the latest training manual. All have their strong points. Remember in sports that demand extremely high levels of force placed on the joints, like rock climbing and gymnastics,it takes years(3-4) generally for the connective tissues to adapt to the stresses. With that being said take it easy and revert back to the having fun part.
in a nut shell
have fun
practice your footwork
BREATH
train your core (that is all muscles from in your case boobs to but)
climb often as possible
learn some rope skills
learn to lead
lead TONS of easy climbs OUTDOORS
And dont worry about the ego stuff , no climber will ever stroke your ego for climbing 5.9(unless your free soloing in Tualamine)
happy climbing
C
(This post was edited by corson on May 9, 2008, 10:38 PM)
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fresh
May 10, 2008, 12:35 AM
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Sh0rty wrote: Anyway, no i don't want 'ego stroked.' I am a girl at lack that anatomy
In reply to: I know I'm asking noob questions, but sorry, but some of you need to lighten up, I'm getting very turned off by the attitiude some individuals have in here.
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rogue10186
May 10, 2008, 12:47 AM
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corson wrote: rogue10186 wrote: Dude, fuck grades. Whatever. Spoken like a true 5.10 climber.
What the hell is that supposed to mean? I don't brag about what I climb, and could pretty much care less.
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caliclimbergrl
May 10, 2008, 4:01 AM
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Hey, sorry if I offended you with the ego comment. I've also gotten pretty turned off by some mean posts on here and they're usually directed at newbies. And now, it seems I've become one of the monsters myself!!
But yeah, climbing 5.9s and working on 10s is good for someone who's only been climbing for a short time. There, I said it, so I'm petting your ego a bit whether you like it or not! ;)
I'll stand by everything else I said in my earlier post though. Of course it's natural to want to progress in grades. Especially when you get outside and find some really fun routes that are just above your ability. The harder you can climb, the more routes open up to you. Just be careful that you don't get so hung up on grades that you don't focus on your technique. It sounds like you're doing everything right, so no worries.
Oh, and quit bouldering and start doing some real climbing!! (Totally kidding -- I'm not a boulder, so I pretend bouldering sucks. In reality, I have nothing but respect for boulders. It's just not my thing -- so that's just some friendly trash talk.)
Climb on!
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jt512
May 10, 2008, 4:14 AM
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Sh0rty wrote: 'm getting very turned off by the attitiude some individuals have in here.
And I haven't even posted yet.
Jay
(This post was edited by jt512 on May 10, 2008, 4:14 AM)
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jamiehearts402
May 12, 2008, 3:56 PM
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Wait- are you sure you're actually climbing the routes? Meaning, you're ONLY using the holds marked with that color?? Cuz for only having climbed for 3 weeks, a 5.10 seems pretty insane to me. This guy I know has been climbing indoors for a couple years, and when I asked him to try the 5.10 he was like "yeah right". And he works at the climbing gym. So it seems to me like you're a) not actually climbing the routes, or b) they're marked wrong
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redno
May 12, 2008, 7:45 PM
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Not to be mean, but maybe the grades are padded? A 5.10 three weeks into climbing is pretty damn good... I am hitting 5.11's and I have been climbing for about five months now.. But nontheless, kudos.
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elvislegs
May 12, 2008, 7:58 PM
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Sh0rty wrote: I guess I'm asking, what level should I be at at this stage? I don't know how the rating system goes or anything.
i say if you like thinking about grades, and that helps you progress, go ahead. despite what you may hear from various radguys in these forums, fun is not the only reason for a person to climb. climbing is your own, experience it on your terms. 5.10 is a great place for you to be right now.
it may help you to think about trying to build a pyramid of grades as you progress. do four 5.7s, three 5.8s, two 5.9s and a .10a. then shift that pyramid up one level (after 5.10 each number grade is divided into four letter grades).
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WVUCLMBR
May 12, 2008, 8:02 PM
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This is why gym's shouldn't use YDS....how about grades than can be roughly converted yet still give the gym rat the understanding that they are not actually climbing 5.10-5.11?
My suggestion:
G-1 Super easy kiddie routes
G-2 Hard kid/super easy adult
G-3 Average diffuculty route
G-4 Harder gym route (like 5.7-5.10 YDS)
G-5 Project/extremely difficult (over 5.11 YDS)
I guess I should note I hate gym climbing. Round these here parts we like to climb rock (actual rock, not pink plastic).
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caliclimbergrl
May 12, 2008, 8:13 PM
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I think it's fine to use the YDS in gyms as long as people realize it doesn't always translate. I've climbed at gyms that use other systems and it gets confusing.
However, I agree with your sentiment about gyms. But since I live in Seattle, gym climbing gets me through the winter and keeps strength and skills up to par so I don't have to start from scratch every Spring. But I do try to take at least one climbing vacation during the long PNW off season.
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munky
May 12, 2008, 8:31 PM
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Call me crazy but in my book 5.10s are suppose to be hard.
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redno
May 12, 2008, 9:02 PM
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If only things were that simple WVUCLIMBR... I do not mind climbing indoors, but I wish that the gyms would have a much more realistic YDS... Outdoors>Indoors...
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carbonrx8
May 12, 2008, 9:52 PM
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Amazing, really. I have been climbing for two years now or so and have never been able to pull off a 5.9. I dont know whether to politely ask you to fuck the hell off or congratulate you.
After reflection, as I dislike short people, will go with the former.
Have a nice day! 
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corson
May 13, 2008, 12:21 AM
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rogue10186 wrote: corson wrote: rogue10186 wrote: Dude, fuck grades. Whatever. Spoken like a true 5.10 climber. What the hell is that supposed to mean? I don't brag about what I climb, and could pretty much care less.
Which is why you climb at your current level.
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carabiner96
May 13, 2008, 12:28 AM
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corson wrote: rogue10186 wrote: corson wrote: rogue10186 wrote: Dude, fuck grades. Whatever. Spoken like a true 5.10 climber. What the hell is that supposed to mean? I don't brag about what I climb, and could pretty much care less. Which is why you climb at your current level.
Mmm, now who's the dick? You're coming off like a JT512 wanna be.
Jay, you've got a groupie!
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