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cordata
May 21, 2008, 3:12 PM
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I'm planning on a day out at Stone Mt this coming weekend and want to pack light. I've got a 70M rope.
Will this be enough for rappelling off the tree ledge? The Shull/Lambert guide says the routes are 120 feet long, 70M is +/- 115 feet, with rope stretch sounds like it should work.
Just want an easy day: great arch, entrance crack, no alternative.
Thanks.
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cragmasterp
May 21, 2008, 3:54 PM
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i think you are gonna want 2 ropes for stone. you can probably make due getting to the ground from tree ledge with a carefully placed rappel and little bit of down climbing, but you will find getting down the great arch or no alternative a bit tricky with one rope.
you can always walk down the hiking trail.
- sully
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gothcopter
May 21, 2008, 4:21 PM
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When last I was there, we rappelled from the rings above U-Slot on two 70m ropes. I seem to recall passing the halfway mark with at least 20-30 feet to go.
The amount of time and effort you'll devote to getting down safely with one rope probably won't be worth it. But if you do decide to go for it, please let us know how it turns out!
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Carnage
May 21, 2008, 6:04 PM
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yea i got dropped at stone getting lowered after a lead cause we thought we read somewhere that a 50m rope would work...
id say 2 ropes is worth it. last time i went we had 2 70m and it was cake. You might be able to find some way to rap off tree ledge over dirty crack, i've heard that's a lot shorter but ive actually never walked down there too look whats going on. we usually rap down u slot.
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dutyje
May 21, 2008, 6:43 PM
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You can get down to the tree ledge with one rope pretty easily.
As far as making it to the ground from there, I will echo what others have said that you really want two ropes. However, if you insist on stretching the 70, your best bet might be the bolts above Entrance Crack. Rap down the face and swing over to the trees on Entrance Crack. You may have enough rope to get that far. Then, either down climb (solo), down-lead (to protect your partner), or put the rope around the tree and rap off it (shame on you). What a PITA.. take two ropes.
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majid_sabet
May 21, 2008, 7:45 PM
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I read an accident report just recently where a climber thought his 70 m rope is long enough to climb and rap but then fell 30 feet on top of belayer. Both ended up in a hospital. If you are not too sure then just carry the extra rope.
(This post was edited by majid_sabet on May 21, 2008, 8:05 PM)
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saxfiend
May 21, 2008, 8:01 PM
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As dutyje says, you might be able to work out a way to do it with one rope (maybe two raps down Block Route, as there is a bolted belay midway down), but it's really not worth the effort. Bring two ropes and make things easy on yourself. You can always leave the second rope on the Tree Ledge while you're doing the Arch or No Alternative.
If you really want an "easy day" you might want to cross Entrance Crack off the list! I've not done it, but most people who have seem to really hate it. I'd recommend Block Route instead for getting to the Tree Ledge; it's easier and better-protected than most of the other approach routes. The big move to surmount the block looks hairier than it really is, and there's good pro to protect this crux.
Have fun and take lots of water, it's probably gonna be really hot on the south face.
JL
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sburns4
May 21, 2008, 8:47 PM
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I second the above. The upper pitches can be rapped with a single rope (i used a 60m) but you have to zigzag between anchor stations with it doubled up. Bring two and your life will be easier. A great pitch to get to the big ledge is U-Slot. I did it as my first trad lead, its 5.8 and real secure in the begining but runs out in the middle for 30 ft or so and then 20 ft at the end. But if you came to stone for secure climbing and no run outs then you are mistaken.
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forkliftdaddy
May 22, 2008, 3:09 AM
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Another approach pitch to stay away from is Father Knows Best. With grainy rock, it is hard for the grade and super scary. I'd rather do Entrance Crack any day.
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pjj8321
May 22, 2008, 5:11 PM
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Two rope all the way! Uslot is a fun way to the tree ledge. Have fun.
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csproul
May 22, 2008, 5:27 PM
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nonsense...it is not a problem to go to Stone with one rope, I've done it several times. I've just walked off the top each time. I am fairly certain that a 70 will hit the bottom from the tree ledge if you use the correct bolts (as low as you can go above Dirty Crack) and even if it doesn't, it is just as fast (if not faster) to walk off the top than it is to rap from the top. The real question is why would you want to bake at Stone this time of year? And yes, Entrance Crack kind of sucks...U-slot is the best easy route to the ledge. The route database list this as 5.8, but I think that the Harrison & Shull book's rating of 5.7 is more accurate. Entrance crack is easy if you do not get in the crack, but unless you have some huge gear you will essentially be soloing it. Most people get into the crack thinking it is more secure and end up thrashing their way up it.
(This post was edited by csproul on May 22, 2008, 5:41 PM)
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dutyje
May 22, 2008, 7:34 PM
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I thought U-Slot was a 5.6? Felt about that grade. Anyway, I usually go up Entrance Crack because it's always crowded when I'm there. There are usually several parties working various climbs up to the tree ledge when I get there. I get up to the ledge first because I take Entrance Crack so I don't have to worry about placing pro 
Rack for Entrance Crack:
1 #3 Camalot to protect the move up around the tree
1 #2 TCU to slide into the slot on the side of the crack about 1/3 of the way up
Then, if you feel like you want more pro, a large Camalot (#5 or #6) or a Green Big Bro closer to the top will keep you safe.
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csproul
May 22, 2008, 8:15 PM
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Yes, I think U-slot is more like 5.6, but I was going with the grade in the guidebook. Regardless, it is not 5.8 as was stated by someone above. For Entrance Crack, I have always gotten in pro to the tree and after that...I don't own anything big enough.
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dutyje
May 22, 2008, 8:58 PM
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Try the #2 TCU... it's on the right hand side of the crack. It's fairly close to where the rusty old chopped bolt remnants are. The spacing of it is perfect for an added piece of encouragement.
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saxfiend
May 22, 2008, 11:17 PM
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csproul wrote: Yes, I think U-slot is more like 5.6, but I was going with the grade in the guidebook. Regardless, it is not 5.8 as was stated by someone above.
U-Slot was my first lead ever at SM; the flake section is certainly 5.easy, but the long runout after that to the overlap felt pretty spicy to me. And even after you get a piece in at the overlap, pulling that move to surmount it isn't exactly 5.6 in my world. On the other hand, I don't think Block Route is even close to 5.8 (the guidebook rating). I thought it was far easier than U-Slot. And I agree wholeheartedly with forklift, Father Knows Best is a horrific sandbag at 5.8. Probably my favorite Tree Ledge lead so far is Crystal Lizard, but I doubt it's what the OP is looking for.
One of these trips, I guess I'll have to grit my teeth and hit the Entrance Crack, just so I can say I've done it once.
JL
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rsmillbern
May 23, 2008, 12:49 AM
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If you plan on rapping take 2 ropes. You can get down with one, but it takes being a bit creative. If you have not been to Stone this is going to take a lot of time (or even if you have it is slower).
It is faster to walk off than rap unless you have a party of 2 and are comfortable simu-rapping...
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notapplicable
May 23, 2008, 1:13 AM
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Entrance Crack and FNB are nightmares unless your head is right for the stuff. Uslot is where its at for a first trip.
Oh yeah, I also recommend the walk off. Rapping is a pain and hard on your rope.
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csproul
May 23, 2008, 1:30 AM
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Funny how routes feel to different people. I thought Block Route was just slightly harder than U-slot and they were both 5.6-5.7. I've only done Crystal Lizard once, but if I remember right, it scared me way more than either of the other two.
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saxfiend
May 23, 2008, 2:01 AM
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csproul wrote: Funny how routes feel to different people. I thought Block Route was just slightly harder than U-slot and they were both 5.6-5.7. I've only done Crystal Lizard once, but if I remember right, it scared me way more than either of the other two.
Anyway, Stone Mountain is one of my favorite places so I'm looking forward to getting back there -- but not till it's a lot cooler.
JL
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nc_trad_climber
May 23, 2008, 2:59 AM
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I was just a Stone today. It was just about perfect. Climbed the Pulpit for the first time. Highly recommended it. Well protected for Stone standards and never too outragious for 5.8. Also did Block Route, Yardarm, and Dirty Crack. Of all the routes to the tree ledge I prefer U-Slot. Do consider the Pulpit if you have not done so. It wanders a little, but the new guidebook route description and topo are right on.
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dutyje
May 23, 2008, 4:53 PM
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Sax -
I practically crapped my pants on U-Slot the first time. It was my first Stone Mountain lead, and I had very, very little multi-pitch experience at the time. It's not quite so bad now.
Entrance Crack felt super-secure the whole way. I stayed on top of (outside) the crack, and used a lot of layback-style moves. I figured even if I had pro, a fall would cause me to tumble into the crack and get lodged there before a piece had a chance to even catch me. The yellow TCU makes an unbelievable difference from a confidence perspective.
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justroberto
May 23, 2008, 6:55 PM
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csproul wrote: Funny how routes feel to different people. I thought Block Route was just slightly harder than U-slot and they were both 5.6-5.7. I've only done Crystal Lizard once, but if I remember right, it scared me way more than either of the other two.
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forkliftdaddy
Jun 2, 2008, 12:35 PM
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How'd it go? Did you take one or two ropes?
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cordata
Jun 3, 2008, 9:49 AM
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Thanks for all the replies... surprised this generated such a lively discussion.
I took only one rope. For me it was more convenient since I was flying in to visit family. From the top of Great Arch it was easy to make it down to the tree ledge with 4 rappels. From the tree ledge to the ground I tried the anchors on Crystal Lizard - fell 15 or so feet short. Pulled and did 2 raps on block route using the intermediate belay station.
As I think was mentioned probably a walk off would be the easiest although I've had a problem with that in the past as well (getting lost...!).
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