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spacemonkey07
Jun 5, 2008, 5:37 PM
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I've been reading about how to improve one's technique for harder routes etc etc.
A lot of stuff can be found in various sources, and I get it pretty well. One thing I read on the 8a.nu website, but I haven't found it in other training resources or on this site.
They have been mentioning the 'pulsating gripping technique'. Should be something 'all the pro's are doing'. It seems to improve one's endurance significantly.
What I can imagine is that it is about holding a hold not continuously but pulsating the grip (duh). This would give the muscles bursts of fresh blood and therefore your endurance would improve.
Anyway, I have been trying around a little bit. And I come nowhere near anything that seems to help even a little bit.
- Is my climbing level not high enough (probably  ) for this advanced technique?)
- Should I practice a lot with this because it's something you really have to get accustomed to?
Anyway, I think my main question is then; how do you learn this technique, and, if somebody already has it down, is it as effective as it is stated?
Thanks!
W
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justroberto
Jun 5, 2008, 7:51 PM
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I would imagine any male over the age of 15 would have this "pulsating gripping technique" down pat.
keep practicing, though.
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borntorocku
Jun 5, 2008, 9:11 PM
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I don't know what you are talking about. Can you post a link?
I would practice "resting" on holds. It is an important skill at any level.
Typically, the hardest rests for me to get "it" back on are matchable jugs on steep routes. The best technique is hang one-handed, with straight arms, for three deep slow breaths then switch hands.
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spacemonkey07
Jun 6, 2008, 2:07 PM
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edited to remove unfunny remark about an equal funny joke 
anyway, here is one article, where it's mentioned
http://www.8a.nu/...e.aspx?ArticleId=652
and another, which goes a little bit deeper into it.
http://www.8a.nu/....aspx?ArticleId=2108
I get the general idea, I just would like to know the details: how long take the pulse intervals? when are you doing it? all the time? do you contract your fingers fysically or is it really soft? etc etc
(This post was edited by spacemonkey07 on Jun 6, 2008, 2:11 PM)
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angry
Jun 6, 2008, 2:48 PM
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I didn't read the article.
Switching hands and changing your grip to help recover is nothing new though.
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overlord
Jun 6, 2008, 5:33 PM
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BS... if you can momentarily reduce the strength of your grip, you are already overgripping which is bad technique anyway. if you are not overgripping and you reduce your grip strength, you will peal off.
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joeforte
Jun 6, 2008, 5:43 PM
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I was thinking allong the same lines as overlord. If you think about it, he's got a good point.
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cracklover
Jun 6, 2008, 6:15 PM
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I read both the articles you linked. I wouldn't trust anyone who starts off by saying "Wouldn't it be a nice feeling if lactic acid and pumped forearms didn't exist, like it is for kids."
Sure sounds like he's trying to sell something. Kind of like a brochure that says - "Wouldn't you like to learn how to earn $10,000 dollars a month from home, just like thousands of our clients already have, from these easy instructional tapes?"
Anyone know kids that climb? I do. They get pumped. I didn't climb when I was a kid, but I did gymnastics. And I remember being pumped for nearly a half hour after hard workouts.
GO
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bender
Jun 6, 2008, 6:44 PM
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joeforte wrote: I was thinking allong the same lines as overlord. If you think about it, he's got a good point.
which does not slight the validity of the practice
proper footwork and body position coupled with core strength allow you to let go of a hold for a couple heartbeats irregardless of how Unovergripping you are
this pause in voluntary muscle tension improves the circulation in the forearm for a moment, enough of these moments can add up to sending a route your falling off the top of presently
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aerili
Jun 7, 2008, 2:21 AM
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cracklover wrote: I read both the articles you linked. I wouldn't trust anyone who starts off by saying "Wouldn't it be a nice feeling if lactic acid and pumped forearms didn't exist, like it is for kids."
Um....yes.
And even if the author's first language isn't English, someone who writes stuff like: "Children have a higher ratio of capillaries to muscle fibres and a low ability to maximum recruitment (contraction) which means that their blood supply to the muscles is constant" has an incomplete understanding of exercise physiology...among other things. (Trust me, no child has a regulatory system that only puts out "a constant" amount of blood regardless of demand on the body.)
"If you could avoid lactic acid in your arms for a month or so, you would probably advance one grade as your muscles could grow instead of being broken down by acid."
Further proof that the writer doesn't understand physiology very well.
That doesn't mean some of the strategies won't help, but don't be fooled by any supposed expertise in human phys from these people.
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cintune
Jun 7, 2008, 6:56 PM
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Sounds kinda like the "breathe" people. Remember to b-r-e-a-t-h-e while you're climbing. Um, yeah, okay, I'll try to make sure to do that.
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phUnk
Jun 13, 2008, 8:06 PM
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cintune wrote: Sounds kinda like the "breathe" people. Remember to b-r-e-a-t-h-e while you're climbing. Um, yeah, okay, I'll try to make sure to do that.
I don't think I'm unique in this aspect. People get fight or flight breathing patterns when they are trying hard and/or scared, so it's often valid advice.
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spacemonkey07
Jun 23, 2008, 8:55 PM
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So I guess nobody has any experience with the technique..?
OK
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JackAttack
Jun 23, 2008, 9:05 PM
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several comments- 1) i have read some of the articles on 8a.nu mentioning this technique and I can understand how it would work, but I am by no means an expert on the science behind it. Actually I know nothing about the science part of it. 2) I dont think my climbing is at the point where I would benefit much or at all from it, so im not gonna bother trying. Theres much better things for me to spend my time on for me to improve. and 3) i have been climbing since I was 7, and I didnt get my first pump until I was 12. Again I dont know anything about the science behind that.
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