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ucrclimber
Jul 6, 2008, 6:36 AM
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hey everyone. ive been working a few problems, and it seems that every time i run into a problem with this move, i get stuck. the move is diagrammed below. seems that every time i go for the next hold, i peel off. is this because im not pushing off my toes enough, cranking hard enough on the left hand, or lack core strength? feel free to share any technique that might help! thanks in advance
(This post was edited by ucrclimber on Jul 6, 2008, 6:36 AM)
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jeremyash
Jul 6, 2008, 10:36 AM
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Have you tried matching you left foot to where your rights is then flaggin your right out for balance?
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rockclimbergabor
Jul 6, 2008, 12:24 PM
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I also have had problems with these types of moves before. It really depends on the specific move, but Ive learned that the key to doing them well is to be in as much control as possible. At least for me, the biggest problem was always that I would go to the crimp and my body would swing way out and I would lose control and fall.
This means that you need to cross to the crimp slowly and really focus on not allowing your body to swing out. One way to do so is to grab the hold before changing body positions, instead of trying to grab it as your body is barn dooring. This requires a combination of balance, core tension, and good finger strength.
In order to train for it, I think the best thing to do would be to practice this type of move on different problems. At first it should not be too hard with a good left hand hold, but keep making new problems with worse and worse ones until you feel you can barely do the move. Then do it over and over, each time trying to be more controlled.
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taydude
Jul 6, 2008, 1:36 PM
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what you need to do is pull that left pinch as close as you can to your body and rotate your right hip in as far as you can. then tense up and slowly reach up to the crimp. Now you want to slowly lower your weight onto it so you don't swing. if this is difficult you lack core strength, start doing sit-ups princess! 
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bimmer3ci
Jul 6, 2008, 3:51 PM
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taydude is correct.... but in order to put that right hip into the wall you will need to switch feet. then you will put your left where your right is currently. or flag it even further to the left. could no one at your gym show you this??? good luck sticking that "bad crimp"
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psh3r
Jul 6, 2008, 4:10 PM
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how do you peel off? do your feet slip? can you not hold yourself up as you reach across?
without knowing that i don't think there's any way to really tell you what the problem is. that said, my guess is that it's a core issue. those moves require a lot of lat.
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rickets
Jul 7, 2008, 2:03 AM
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if u arent stong enough to make it try putting both feet on the right foot hold and reaching from there. it will bring your weight under the crimp your going for so u can reach over nice and easy. that is as long as the right foot hold is big enough for 2 feet
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kriso9tails
Jul 7, 2008, 10:45 PM
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bimmer3ci wrote: taydude is correct.... but in order to put that right hip into the wall you will need to switch feet. then you will put your left where your right is currently. or flag it even further to the left. could no one at your gym show you this??? good luck sticking that "bad crimp"
I disagree. I think taydude meant for feet to be left where they are, which I do agree with. If you switch feet you limit your reach and make it way harder to transition out of the cross without first switching your feet back.
With what he was saying, you should be able to lock your left arm, distribute your weight fairly evenly between three points of contact and reach somewhat casually (with control at least) with your right. From there it's just a matter of rolling into the cross, setting your hand and slowly positioning your body weight. You really just need to be able to lock and drive your hip in. A bit of back and a bit of core.
(This post was edited by kriso9tails on Jul 7, 2008, 10:47 PM)
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rtwilli4
Jul 21, 2008, 5:51 AM
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you're certainly not going to get any better at that move by drawing pictures of it.
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shimanilami
Jul 21, 2008, 6:03 AM
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This is without doubt one of the funniest threads I have ever come across.
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chossmonkey
Jul 21, 2008, 6:33 PM
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Seems like core strength.
I have a similar move on my wall at home and one day I couldn't do it. My feet kept popping off. I thought the footholds had just become to polished. It turns out I was just really tired and wasn't keeping my core tight enough.
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ucrclimber
Jul 21, 2008, 7:53 PM
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thanks everyone for your help. it sounds like core strength is the key. ill keep working at it!
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mwelly007
Jul 22, 2008, 8:55 PM
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just dyno to the upper left hold. solves all. or dyno to the top, either way.
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hopperhopper
Aug 20, 2008, 5:14 AM
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hard to tell what's going on with your majid-esque picture, but maybe try lifting up the left foot and flagging it out further so your body doesn't barn door to the left. and do it static; if the crimp is bad you'll need a slow controlled grab.
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