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lemonade
Jul 11, 2008, 7:21 PM
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Okay first off, I think we all know that to be a better climber you should climb, climb, climb. ;)
BUT, I do have this other more normal life in between weekends outside where I actually go to this regular work out gym and go running and stuff.
My question is...
When I am doing normal person workouts, what kinds of things can I do to help improve my overall climbing fitness and what are some things I should avoid?
I know I want to have leaner muscles as a climber (and as a woman) and that I should focus on my core....but does anyone have suggestions for specific core training techniques that isolate the same muscles as climbing does, or lower body turn out strengthening, or the start/stop tense fiddling of leading....if any of that makes sense.
I guess I have a pretty decent idea of overall what to do and avoid but I would like to find some specific excercises that lend some excitement to the gym (other than staring at meatheads) and make me feel like I am not counteracting my weekend warrior status.
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zakadamsgt
Jul 11, 2008, 9:13 PM
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Lemon,
I'm by no means an authority on this, but during the week, it's a good idea to train opposing muscles. Chest and push-ups, biceps, triceps, and core. Some of my friends that are super strong climbers dont climb during the week - they work with free weights and isolate groups. These guys are way stronger than me, and never touch plastic.
I'm beginning to think that the rock gym isnt all it's cracked up to be...
Good luck and let me know your progress!
Zak
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Myxomatosis
Jul 15, 2008, 1:49 AM
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Buy a set of rock rings and train your core.
I have done the push up, sit ups (with legs at 90 degrees) and pull up's for a few months and had some gains in performance on the wall.
But the last month I have been using rock rings. Mainly getting my feet all the way above my head (so im upside down) and then slowly letting my feet down (Usually try count to 10 secs) and have had twice the gain over the sit up's in half the time.
Also if you have a partner, do a pull up and then lock off both arms at right angles. Then your partner will point to spots in the air and you have to touch them with your feet (left and right feet alternate) while trying to maintain control (all while locked off). This I have found is the most effective way of training your core for me.
Try some light campus board exerices to start with, on the big rungs. Nothing fancy, up and back down is enough. The key to campus board is to rest between sets, until you can't feel the effect of the set before. If your arms start to hurt, then Id stop doing it.
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jdefazio
Jul 15, 2008, 2:20 AM
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lemonade wrote: I guess I have a pretty decent idea of overall what to do and avoid but I would like to find some specific excercises that lend some excitement to the gym (other than staring at meatheads) and make me feel like I am not counteracting my weekend warrior status.
And all the "Why shirts off in the gym ?" threads are now fully explained.
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jeremyash
Jul 15, 2008, 3:07 AM
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Myxomatosis wrote: But the last month I have been using rock rings. Mainly getting my feet all the way above my head (so im upside down) and then slowly letting my feet down (Usually try count to 10 secs) and have had twice the gain over the sit up's in half the time.
You mind going into a bit more detail here? I'm interested to try this out, but i'm not quite tracking on how the exercise is conducted. is it like doing a lever? Or are you just hanging and bringing your feet up towards / over your head?
-Jeremy
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Myxomatosis
Jul 15, 2008, 3:36 AM
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jeremyash wrote: Myxomatosis wrote: But the last month I have been using rock rings. Mainly getting my feet all the way above my head (so im upside down) and then slowly letting my feet down (Usually try count to 10 secs) and have had twice the gain over the sit up's in half the time. Myxomatosis You mind going into a bit more detail here? I'm interested to try this out, but i'm not quite tracking on how the exercise is conducted. is it like doing a lever? Or are you just hanging and bringing your feet up towards / over your head? -Jeremy
Yeah... you get to the Front Lever position and then keep going until your feet touch the roof, usually you will need to bend your knees to get your feet up that high. Now your head is facing down wards.
Then slowly bring your legs down together while breathing out slowly. Use your abs to control the speed your legs drop. The aim is to let them down as slow as you can, once you go passed your waist height it gets very hard.
Sorry I have tried google for the correct name of it but no luck.. someone else might be able to help?
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lemonade
Jul 15, 2008, 12:35 PM
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Registered: Jul 11, 2008
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jdefazio...you'll want to keep your shirt on. Guys at the gym are like watching another species. There are very few times where any guy there is attractive, no matter how great his body is.
But it's great entertainment!! 
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ontherocks
Jul 15, 2008, 3:47 PM
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All depends on which level you are climbing at now. If you are climbing below 5.11, I would concentrate on just climbing as much as you can. Keep your weight low, stretch and try all kind of routes (crack, slab, face, traverses, roofs). Cracks are a good way to improve core strength. Always try to keep as much weight as you can on your feet, and forget about pull ups and weight training.
Do you have access to an indoors climbing gym for the rainy days or during the week? I would recommend also to get the book "Performance rock Climbing", it gives you a basic idea of how to plan your training.
Nothing new here...
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Scrupuruss
Aug 4, 2008, 11:40 PM
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Registered: Jul 9, 2008
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I think that if can't do 15 consecutive pullups, doing pullups would be a good gym exercise. You could also time yourself on a straight-arm hang.
If you can do 15 consecutive pullups, then you'd benefit more by looking into something more climbing-specific, like the levers or campus training.
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