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zan
Jul 14, 2008, 5:36 PM
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Registered: Jun 12, 2008
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I went on my first trad climb last week and used a nearly two decade-old, very basic, canvas Eastpack to carry my approach shoes, food, water, etc. up the mountain. As you might have guessed, I killed the pack. Now I'm in the market for a new pack to use while seconding (going to Tuolumne in August).
My leader has a BD Sidewinder that he said I could use (we're only carrying up one pack up I think) but I figured I might as well buy one of my own. So far the contenders are all BD.
Hollowpoint
Bullet
Sidewinder
Bbe
Anyone have any opinions on the above? Other recommendations also welcome.
Edited for more info: We'll be doing all day dawn-to-dusk climbing. I've been advised to take, water, cliff bars (or something), long underwear and headlamp (in case we get stuck up for the night). I need a bag that can carry all that but since we're taking a 70m rope I don't think I'll need to carry extra cord or anything for rappels.
(This post was edited by zan on Jul 14, 2008, 5:51 PM)
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granite_grrl
Jul 14, 2008, 5:47 PM
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Registered: Oct 25, 2002
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On some multipitch I carry a very small pack, just enough to put in my water bladder, a few granola bars and maybe a light long sleve shirt. I prefer to climb in this pack and don't even mind leading while wearing it most of the time.
On longer days or harder climbing (or a few other reasons) we have taken a medium sized camel back pack that we chare between us (the second gets stuck with the pack, leader has nothing). Similar sized to the Bullet, but I find if wears better while climbing.
I have a bullet that's okay but I find it feels a bit bulky and haven't worn it much while climbing for that reason. Its prefect for a little pack to wear back and forth biking to work though!
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tolman_paul
Jul 14, 2008, 10:08 PM
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The biggest problem with a pack is you can be temtped to take too much stuff. I found a fanny pack to be my preference for long day routes. Just enough room for water, snacks, fetherweight parka/windbreaker, headlamd and strap my approach shoes on the bottom. Also I find the fanny pack keeps the weight in a better location than a backpack.
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zan
Jul 14, 2008, 10:15 PM
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I see where you're coming from but a) I hate fanny packs and b) I've done a fair bit of back-country camping so I'm really good about packing judiciously. I don't think that packing too much is going to be a problem, I don't want to be carrying an ounce more than I have to.
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hafilax
Jul 14, 2008, 10:51 PM
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[thread drift] I find climbing without a pack to be much more enjoyable. It's amazing how much even a small pack throws off my balance. It also gets in the way of putting slings over the shoulder, a gear sling, and even the chalk bag sometimes.
I much prefer a stuff sack with a jacket and some food, a water bottle and shoes on my harness over a pack. It's also easier to manage if you come across any chimney moves. If you don't want to carry an ounce extra then think of how much less a stuff sack weighs than even a small pack. 
Of course I'm usually swapping leads which is a little different from just seconding. It's nice to be able to put on the jacket, eat something and drink some water while belaying the second on an autoblock.[/thread drift]
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billcoe_
Jul 15, 2008, 1:26 AM
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Registered: Jun 30, 2002
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I would continue with my old stuff and buy a Cilogear when it comes out later this year. They are doing 3 sizes specific to rock climbing.
If you cannot wait, the Metolius crag sack will make you very very happy. I holds more stuff than one would think as the rope can be strapped to the back. It got the highest grade on rock and Ice (climbing?) mags recent review on crag packs.
That's me anyway.
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sky7high
Jul 15, 2008, 1:53 AM
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hafilax wrote: [thread drift] I find climbing without a pack to be much more enjoyable. It's amazing how much even a small pack throws off my balance. It also gets in the way of putting slings over the shoulder, a gear sling, and even the chalk bag sometimes.
Really? the other day I led with a pack on and didn't even notice it. it was a 2 pitch route and we had to get some stuff to the top. I started out seconding and when we swapped leads I sorta forgot I was wearing the pack. It didn't weigh much though (5-6 pounds at most)
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tradrenn
Jul 15, 2008, 9:52 AM
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I recommend a BD Bee.
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sungam
Jul 15, 2008, 10:00 AM
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Registered: Jun 24, 2004
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I head there wis this company called cilo, and that they realeased a 20l leader pack, but that could just be heresay.
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markc
Jul 15, 2008, 2:12 PM
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I recently bought a Camelback Blowfish. I've found that the Camelback with the small pocket wasn't really big enough for much besides lunch and a headlamp. The Bullet is great for a dedicated second, but I find it a little big for leading. The Bbe looks like a nice size, but I don't have any personal experience with it.
Edit: From your other posts is seems like you intend to get into leading. It's with that in mind that I'm suggesting a slightly smaller pack that you could possibly lead in.
(This post was edited by markc on Jul 15, 2008, 2:14 PM)
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zan
Jul 15, 2008, 2:16 PM
Post #11 of 19
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Registered: Jun 12, 2008
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I'll get into leading eventually, but right now I'm not confident enough. I want oodles more climbs as a second under my belt first. Until then I'll just stick to dog-earing my John Long book ...
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irregularpanda
Jul 17, 2008, 8:10 PM
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Registered: Mar 13, 2007
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rei also makes something called the flash: it's only 25 bucks and it's basically just a stuffsack with straps. I dig it. Other companies sell the same thing for like 90$. it's the only thing that doesn't piss me off about rei.
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btreanor
Jul 17, 2008, 10:00 PM
Post #14 of 19
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Registered: Feb 24, 2004
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http://www.cilogear.com/20lws.html
A few months ago, a thief broke into our home. Fortunately, we don't have anything worth stealing (this must have been one disappointed thief... "Fvck! I broke into the only Amish house in SoCal!"). Anyhow, the only things missing were my wife's old laptop and my old Lowe summit pack (likely used to transport the laptop).
Anyhow, as I was already waiting on a new pack from Cilogear, I had Graham add a 20L to the order. If you are looking for a light leader's pack, I highly recommend it. The thing will easily hold water, food, headlamp, a rain shell or puff-jacket, and your approach shoes. It rides well above the harness and I can't imagine the thing impacting your climbing unless, perhaps, you are in a tight chimney. You should really check 'em out.
On another note... I climb without a pack when possible; however, I've gotten accustomed to climbing with a pack after a few seasons in the Alps. It is really a very minor adjustment to make for long routes below your limit. I mean, we're not talking about trying to redpoint 13a wearing a 40 liter pack, right? If you are talking about long alpine rock, ice, or mixed, a small pack with most of the stuff taken out (because you are using it, and because larger and heavier bivy stuff went into the second's pack) it not really that much of a problem unless you are in the aforementioned squeeze chimney (and then you can just haul your pack).
http://www.cilogear.com/20lws.html
I have no professional relationship with Cilogear. In fact my Cilogear packs are some of the only pieces of gear I have ever paid retail for, but they are worth every penny and then some.
Brian
(This post was edited by btreanor on Jul 17, 2008, 10:14 PM)
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mushroom
Jul 17, 2008, 10:42 PM
Post #15 of 19
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Registered: Mar 10, 2007
Posts: 230
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the ll bean escape is a totally dope pack for climbing. It can carry your snowboard and ice axes too
I'd definitely recommend taking a loot at it
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potreroed
Jul 17, 2008, 11:03 PM
Post #16 of 19
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Registered: Sep 30, 2001
Posts: 1454
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Does MountainTools still make their Jet Pack? That's a great small pack for long rock routes.
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caughtinside
Jul 17, 2008, 11:07 PM
Post #17 of 19
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Registered: Jan 8, 2003
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anything under 5 or 6 pitches is no pack.
shoes: clip to harness
windbreaker: clip to harness
water bottle: duct tape a sling to gatorade bottle and clip to harness.
food: pockets.
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erclimb
Jul 17, 2008, 11:50 PM
Post #18 of 19
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Registered: Aug 23, 2002
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i love the BB...it can work for two people but something (shoes or jackets) will have to go on the harness...i also drink at least a liter of water BEFORE leaving camp...i carry a BD ion, so my headlamp takes no room...you can probably fit 3 nalgenes and 1/2 dozen cliff bars...and it rides well--above the harness and close to the back
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sungam
Jul 18, 2008, 7:42 AM
Post #19 of 19
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Registered: Jun 24, 2004
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caughtinside wrote: anything under 5 or 6 pitches is no pack. shoes: clip to harness windbreaker: clip to harness water bottle: duct tape a sling to gatorade bottle and clip to harness. food: pockets.
But then that just means that just like everything else in climbing, you gotta change from plan A as for the conditions.
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