Even if I left one nut to hang my rack at a belay, I will post EVERYWHERE, asking the would-be thieve to return it.
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If I bailed off a climb, I would still post hoping someone would take pity on me and nreturn the gear.
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If I bailed off a climb, I'd be to humiliated to face the one who sent the route and retrieved my gear.
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All gear left behind constitutes a sacrifical offering to the gear gods....even if that god is a shape-shifter and has taken the human form of a lucky gumby who happened to stumble across it.
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Only pussies leave gear. I am not a pussy.
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Draws on an overhanging route are not abandoned gear!!!!!
I think you may have missed my very first post, that is why I said never mind. Since you asked, I was talking about the chockstone being intentionally placed by a climber that then used it to bail off of a route.
This isn't hypothetical, I was there. I'm glad I got my cams back, but I don't know if that practice is considered clean and/or ethical. We wouldn't people filling up cracks with bail chockstones now would we?
I read your first post, and understood that this happened to you and your partners. You bailed while leaving the smallest amount of gear possible on a traditional route. Using a stone was a good move, and I can't think of a soul that would take exception to it (aside from wanting booty).
On top of that, I doubt very much that this new chock is irretrievably placed. If someone does have an issue with it, the rock can probably be dislodged without much fuss. Did wedging a chockstone in the crack damage the rock? If not, it's clean and ethical. I'd also call it good style.
No, using a stone was not a good move, especially on a trad line.
An acceptable method would have been to french-free or A1 through the difficult section.
Jul 23, 2008, 12:46 PM
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Re: [stymingersfink] Seperated From Your Gear; Whaddaya Do?
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I agree that the chock stone was probably not the best option, unless it was the only option, then it would be the best by default. Once it is in place, it most likely will not be removed by the next party. It has more of a likelihood of permanently changing the route than leaving a standard piece of gear.
Jul 23, 2008, 12:52 PM
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Re: [stymingersfink] Seperated From Your Gear; Whaddaya Do?
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stymingersfink wrote:
markc wrote:
lofstromc wrote:
I think you may have missed my very first post, that is why I said never mind. Since you asked, I was talking about the chockstone being intentionally placed by a climber that then used it to bail off of a route.
This isn't hypothetical, I was there. I'm glad I got my cams back, but I don't know if that practice is considered clean and/or ethical. We wouldn't people filling up cracks with bail chockstones now would we?
I read your first post, and understood that this happened to you and your partners. You bailed while leaving the smallest amount of gear possible on a traditional route. Using a stone was a good move, and I can't think of a soul that would take exception to it (aside from wanting booty).
On top of that, I doubt very much that this new chock is irretrievably placed. If someone does have an issue with it, the rock can probably be dislodged without much fuss. Did wedging a chockstone in the crack damage the rock? If not, it's clean and ethical. I'd also call it good style.
No, using a stone was not a good move, especially on a trad line.
An acceptable method would have been to french-free or A1 through the difficult section.
Jul 23, 2008, 12:55 PM
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Re: [chossmonkey] Seperated From Your Gear; Whaddaya Do?
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chossmonkey wrote:
stymingersfink wrote:
markc wrote:
lofstromc wrote:
I think you may have missed my very first post, that is why I said never mind. Since you asked, I was talking about the chockstone being intentionally placed by a climber that then used it to bail off of a route.
This isn't hypothetical, I was there. I'm glad I got my cams back, but I don't know if that practice is considered clean and/or ethical. We wouldn't people filling up cracks with bail chockstones now would we?
I read your first post, and understood that this happened to you and your partners. You bailed while leaving the smallest amount of gear possible on a traditional route. Using a stone was a good move, and I can't think of a soul that would take exception to it (aside from wanting booty).
On top of that, I doubt very much that this new chock is irretrievably placed. If someone does have an issue with it, the rock can probably be dislodged without much fuss. Did wedging a chockstone in the crack damage the rock? If not, it's clean and ethical. I'd also call it good style.
No, using a stone was not a good move, especially on a trad line.
An acceptable method would have been to french-free or A1 through the difficult section.
Jul 23, 2008, 6:47 PM
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Re: [happiegrrrl] Seperated From Your Gear; Whaddaya Do?
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We recently returned: 1 BD #1 Cam 1 BD .75 Cam 1 Pink Tricam Two slings 5 or so biners
For a second I thought it was my birthday, but then someone posted here on this site that they were missing these things on the same climb that we had done and on the previous day. No question this all belonged to them, and we would have felt badly keeping the stuff. Hopefully we earned some good karma points at least.
Jul 23, 2008, 7:46 PM
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Re: [wonderwoman] Seperated From Your Gear; Whaddaya Do?
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That's a score and a half! What the hell were the circumstances for leaving that much gear? It would hurt to turn over that much booty, but I suspect I would have returned it, as well.
1 BD #1 Cam 1 BD .75 Cam 1 Pink Tricam Two slings 5 or so biners
That's a score and a half! What the hell were the circumstances for leaving that much gear? It would hurt to turn over that much booty, but I suspect I would have returned it, as well.
I was wondering the same. I mean, I can see leaving the pink tricam, but the rest of the stuff is actually useful.
Jul 23, 2008, 8:19 PM
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Re: [wonderwoman] Seperated From Your Gear; Whaddaya Do?
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wonderwoman wrote:
I guess he had a high school aged, inexperienced second. I recommended finding a new second for future climbs!
You'd have to notice that much gear missing at the change-over. I would have lowered back down or downclimbed and cleaned my gear (unless there are further circumstances we're unaware of). I can see having troubles with the tricam if it was set, but two cams? The next thing being left behind would have been that kid in the parking lot.
I can see having troubles with the tricam if it was set, but two cams? The next thing being left behind would have been that kid in the parking lot.
The tricam was dropped by the second. I only noticed it behind a big flake as I was being lowered to the #1. They were significantly off route, too. I think they meant to do an 8 and wound up on a 10b.
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