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delila99
Aug 8, 2008, 12:03 PM
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Yesterday, my partner Stefan was self-belaying, (LONG story) backclipped a draw and decked (nearly 60 feet). Thank God he pushed off the cliff and landed in a bush below the route.
Miraculously got up, all bloodied from the scratches and walked away with a sprained ankle and a sore tailbone.
Lucky bastard.
I keep having flashbacks of the fall and keep hearing that awful thud..
STAY SAFE GUYS! 
(This post was edited by delila99 on Aug 8, 2008, 12:26 PM)
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chossmonkey
Aug 8, 2008, 12:20 PM
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Good to hear he is okay.
Was it a sport route? I'd think that even if a bolt unclipped that you should still be well out of the groundfall zone.
How was the belay?
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8flood8
Aug 8, 2008, 1:02 PM
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get that back looked at...
don't want to run around with a bulging or slipped disc.
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delila99
Aug 8, 2008, 1:04 PM
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thanks chossmonkey...
yes, it was a sports route... he had linked draws and was self-belaying from bolt to bolt. the draw gate gave way and he fell...
the worst was watching him fall and not being able to do anything. you just stand there, unable to react. It's awful...
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delila99
Aug 8, 2008, 1:09 PM
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In reply to: get that back looked at... don't want to run around with a bulging or slipped disc.
thanks for the tip, I was worried about that too. (he took a previous fall while bouldering) we went to the ER and they took x-rays and all seemed ok. do you think we should follow-up?
I was actually pretty amazed at how helpful and kind people were when the fall happened. Some random passers-by just piled us into their car and drove us to the hospital.
when you're most cynical, the kindness of strangers can really surprise you.
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socalclimber
Aug 8, 2008, 1:24 PM
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First off, glad he was OK. Lucky guy.
I'm a little fuzzy about his rope solo technique. You say he was "linking" quickdraws and that he was self belaying from bolt to bolt.
How exactly did he fall 60 feet? What does linking quickdraws mean?
Could you please clarify the setup for me?
Thanks
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delila99
Aug 8, 2008, 1:49 PM
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In reply to: about his rope solo technique. You say he was "linking" quickdraws and that he was self belaying from bolt to bolt. How exactly did he fall 60 feet? What does linking quickdraws mean?
sorry if the explanation was confusing - english isn't my native language, so i may not be entirely clear.
he literally took 8 draws, clipped them one to the other and soloed to the spot where he eventually fell, clipped the bolt and as he leaned back, the 'contraption' gave way and he fell. it was so quick...
sorry if this isn't an entirely lucid account, but that's the best i can do with my feeble english..
i just talked to him and he can't move his legs all that well. the doctors cleared him of any spine damage, but i'm a little on edge.
do you think we should take him to the hospital again? (we'll end up seeing the same doctors.. it's bosnia)
thanks anyways for the kind words..
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delila99
Aug 8, 2008, 2:10 PM
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In reply to: ........ WTF?
yeah, i know.
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socalclimber
Aug 8, 2008, 2:19 PM
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delila99 wrote: In reply to: about his rope solo technique. You say he was "linking" quickdraws and that he was self belaying from bolt to bolt. How exactly did he fall 60 feet? What does linking quickdraws mean? sorry if the explanation was confusing - english isn't my native language, so i may not be entirely clear. he literally took 8 draws, clipped them one to the other and soloed to the spot where he eventually fell, clipped the bolt and as he leaned back, the 'contraption' gave way and he fell. it was so quick... sorry if this isn't an entirely lucid account, but that's the best i can do with my feeble english.. i just talked to him and he can't move his legs all that well. the doctors cleared him of any spine damage, but i'm a little on edge. do you think we should take him to the hospital again? (we'll end up seeing the same doctors.. it's bosnia) thanks anyways for the kind words..
Scary sounding setup.
I would get him back to a Dr. if he's feeling numbness or is having problems with movement in his legs. He could have some cord shock or swelling that might lead to this. I'm no Dr., but I do know a little about this, don't mess around. Get him to a Dr.
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h-man
Aug 8, 2008, 2:25 PM
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I keep having flashbacks of the fall and keep hearing that awful thud..
You heard the thud?! If you were his partner, why was he apparently not on belay, goofing around with this bizarre technique?
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epoch
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Aug 8, 2008, 2:46 PM
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davidh100 wrote: In reply to: he literally took 8 draws, clipped them one to the other and soloed to the spot where he eventually fell, clipped the bolt and as he leaned back, the 'contraption' gave way and he fell. it was so quick... ........  WTF?
That's a huge WTF?
Um.... Wow.
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getout87
Aug 8, 2008, 2:52 PM
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epoch wrote: davidh100 wrote: In reply to: he literally took 8 draws, clipped them one to the other and soloed to the spot where he eventually fell, clipped the bolt and as he leaned back, the 'contraption' gave way and he fell. it was so quick... ........ WTF? That's a huge WTF? Um.... Wow.
+1
I might need majid to diagram this one for me
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reg
Aug 8, 2008, 2:58 PM
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getout87 wrote: epoch wrote: davidh100 wrote: In reply to: he literally took 8 draws, clipped them one to the other and soloed to the spot where he eventually fell, clipped the bolt and as he leaned back, the 'contraption' gave way and he fell. it was so quick... ........ WTF? That's a huge WTF? Um.... Wow. +1 I might need majid to diagram this one for me
+2 - on the majid line
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iron106
Aug 8, 2008, 3:54 PM
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Well if you do that you cant Back clip it that makes sense
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krosbakken
Aug 8, 2008, 4:26 PM
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delila99 wrote: he literally took 8 draws, clipped them one to the other and soloed to the spot where he eventually fell, clipped the bolt and as he leaned back, the 'contraption' gave way and he fell. it was so quick...
WTF am I understanding this corretly? He clipped draws together, and there was no rope in the setup? So if he would have fallen, which he did but if it would have held him it would have been a huge static fall correct? jeez sounds scary as shit.
Good to hear he is ok.
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crimpandgo
Aug 8, 2008, 4:50 PM
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Yep. clearly a diagram with red and green arrows is requred here. OP ???? how bout it 
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majid_sabet
Aug 8, 2008, 5:01 PM
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guys what is self-belaying from bolt to bolt
could someone explain in detail how this is done
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hyhuu
Aug 8, 2008, 5:10 PM
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The description makes absolutely no sense to me whatsoever.
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delila99
Aug 8, 2008, 5:16 PM
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In reply to: You heard the thud?! If you were his partner, why was he apparently not on belay, goofing around with this bizarre technique?
I was climbing a route next to him and didn't even notice his shenigans I'd looked over a moment before the fall.
He'd tried this before and I'd called him on it to no avail. The thing is, this kid is a prodigy. He's progressed to leading 5.12 within a year of starting to climb. A natural. Lately though, he's begun to think he's invincible and started doing some rather questionable stuff... (case in point)
I don't know how to broach the subject. I'm worried he'll hurt himself again.. he was lucky this time around, don't know how much luck he'll have the next time around..
and it would've been stupid to berate him after the fall. he was pretty shaken up..
but how to bring it up?
(This post was edited by delila99 on Aug 8, 2008, 5:19 PM)
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curtis_g
Aug 8, 2008, 5:17 PM
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majid_sabet wrote: guys what is self-belaying from bolt to bolt could someone explain in detail how this is done
At first I though this meant hanging at each bolt to pause and tie in a fig 8 on a bite, and clip the bite to the bolt, then lead via grigri or some autolocking device, to the next bolt and hang, back yourself up vie fig 8 there and continue. but that's all pretty unnecessary.
as someone else said, no one ever mentioned there being a rope involved.
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csproul
Aug 8, 2008, 5:19 PM
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If I get this right (let me know if I've got it wrong): He is chaining draws together and clipping in direct to a bolt. The chained draws are long enough to climb up to the next bolt and clip into it direct. Repeat to next bolt. This is a very dangerous procedure that not only allows for the possibility of a static fall onto draws, but (as happened here?) allows for the possibility of draws clipped to eachother to become unclipped. Hope his injuries heal ok and that a lesson is learned for the future.
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majid_sabet
Aug 8, 2008, 5:24 PM
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curtis_g wrote: majid_sabet wrote: guys what is self-belaying from bolt to bolt could someone explain in detail how this is done At first I though this meant hanging at each bolt to pause and tie in a fig 8 on a bite, and clip the bite to the bolt, then lead via grigri or some autolocking device, to the next bolt and hang, back yourself up vie fig 8 there and continue. but that's all pretty unnecessary. as someone else said, no one ever mentioned there being a rope involved.
I hate it when a climber rushes in too posting a report especially when their friends are involved and they have access to every possible detail but then leave the entire climbing world confused about accident( if any).
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delila99
Aug 8, 2008, 5:32 PM
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In reply to: If I get this right (let me know if I've got it wrong): He is chaining draws together and clipping in direct to a bolt. The chained draws are long enough to climb up to the next bolt and clip into it direct. Repeat to next bolt.
EXACTLY
And Majed, it's not that I'm witholding information, I just didn't know how to describe it and besides, I didn't want to write a novel... who wants to read a 10,000 word post..
nevertheless, thanks for all the words of advice.
i'm going over to visit. he's ok. got up and walked around a bit.
cheers people.
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