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firestonej
Aug 13, 2008, 9:22 PM
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Registered: Aug 13, 2008
Posts: 13
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I've been climbing about 2 years and just recently twisted my knee cliff diving. This resulted in some knee pain both above-outside the kneecap, and directly below it. My PT said it was patellar tendonitis..
It's been about a week and a half now in a knee brace and it doesn't feel a whole lot better. I know it'll heal eventually, but I guess my question is what do I do while I wait? I was sending V5s solidly before, now I'm worried I'll be out of shape when I get back on my feet..
I got plenty of knee exercises to strengthen the ligament.. how do I keep the rest of my body in shape without stressing out my knee?
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onceahardman
Aug 13, 2008, 10:49 PM
Post #2 of 2
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Registered: Aug 3, 2007
Posts: 2493
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firestonej wrote: I've been climbing about 2 years and just recently twisted my knee cliff diving. This resulted in some knee pain both above-outside the kneecap, and directly below it. My PT said it was patellar tendonitis.. It's been about a week and a half now in a knee brace and it doesn't feel a whole lot better. I know it'll heal eventually, but I guess my question is what do I do while I wait? I was sending V5s solidly before, now I'm worried I'll be out of shape when I get back on my feet.. I got plenty of knee exercises to strengthen the ligament.. how do I keep the rest of my body in shape without stressing out my knee?
No offense, but I don't think you understand the injury. Generally speaking, exercise doesn't really strengthen ligaments.
But to answer your question, if you want to keep up general cardiovascular fitness, you need cardiovascular training. A good generic program will elevate your heart rate into your target range for 20-60+ minutes. Cycling may or may not be a good choice for you, depending upon how inflammatory your tendinitis is. Swimming might be the best choice. If even swimming stesses the knee too much, some kind of UBE (upper body ergometer) might be the only option, but they are uncommon outside of dedicated rehab centers. Weight training and body-weight exercises like dips and pullups can help keep you from getting too flabby.
General formula for maximum heart rate (MHR):
MHR=220-(your age)
Target Heart Rate = 60-80% of MHR
Thus, for a 30 year old: MHR=220-30=190
THR= (0.6) X 190=114
THR=(0.8) X 190=152
THR = 114-152 beats per minute.
There are more sophisticated methods, but this simple calculation will give excellent results.
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