I just can't decide both are pretty much same price but I don't know what I should get. Metolius has good holds but only 60 of them and like half of them are screw ons while atomik gives 108 holds with only 40 screw ons. Which do you think? btw, if you can recommend an even cheaper/better brand feel free to post.
By the way, this is for my woodie so I'm looking for a good starter set.
Metolius 60 Pack
10 Screw-On Footholds 8 Screw-On Handholds 1 Screw-On Rail 1 Screw-On Plate 1 Screw-On Outside Corner 5 Screw-On Modulars 10 Micros 12 Modulars 5 Mini Jugs 7 Macros/Roof Jugs Multi-Wrench "How to Build a Home Wall Booklet" $219.00 Buy 60pk.
Atomik This climbing set covers it all! 12 super-incut large jugs, 10 large jugs, 15 medium positives, 10 granite-style, 21 smalls and 40 screw-ons. Bolts, screws, a wrench and 150 t-nuts are also included. This is a great deal, because you get everything you need on your climbing wall for a reduced price. If you do not need as many, the 40 Pack Variety is also a great deal.
(This post was edited by Eugene on Oct 9, 2008, 1:48 AM)
I'm building a woody myself and figured I'd take a chance on some brand X holds that were a lot cheaper. 80 medium and large bolt on holds for 60 bucks plus 10 more in shipping. They are made of some kind of aircraft epoxy mixed with ground up filler I think. If anything they are too big and juggy, but it should be cheap to add a bunch of little screw-ons if I want them. Or I could just turn the holds to angles that offer less to grip.
Haven't gotten a chance to see how sturdy they are yet, but they are cheap.
(This post was edited by milesenoell on Oct 9, 2008, 2:13 AM)
I'm building a woody myself and figured I'd take a chance on some brand X holds that were a lot cheaper. 80 medium and large bolt on holds for 60 bucks plus 10 more in shipping. They are made of some kind of aircraft epoxy mixed with ground up filler I think. If anything they are too big and juggy, but it should be cheap to add a bunch of little screw-ons if I want them. Or I could just turn the holds to angles that offer less to grip.
Haven't gotten a chance to see how sturdy they are yet, but they are cheap.
I am very interested in the "brand x" holds. Do they have a website?
More is most definitely NOT better. People who opt for more holds tend to opt for cheap holds. Cheap holds are cheap for a reason. They break easily and they have unexciting shapes that are uncomfortable to hold and don't get you stoked to climb. If you absolutely must buy inexpensive off-brand holds to fill dead space on your wall then fine, but don't be surprised when they make your hands hurt and break, and at least buy one or two sets of really cool holds from a more reputable company. I promise you'll be glad you did. There are more than a few threads in which people just post their favorite hold makers. Do a search and I'm sure they'll turn up.
And if it lends any credence to my opinion, I set routes for a living.
More is most definitely NOT better. People who opt for more holds tend to opt for cheap holds. Cheap holds are cheap for a reason. They break easily and they have unexciting shapes that are uncomfortable to hold and don't get you stoked to climb. If you absolutely must buy inexpensive off-brand holds to fill dead space on your wall then fine, but don't be surprised when they make your hands hurt and break, and at least buy one or two sets of really cool holds from a more reputable company. I promise you'll be glad you did. There are more than a few threads in which people just post their favorite hold makers. Do a search and I'm sure they'll turn up.
And if it lends any credence to my opinion, I set routes for a living.
I couldn't agree more but are you implying that I shouldn't get the atomik holds? From other threads and replies it seems like atomik would be the best.
I couldn't agree more but are you implying that I shouldn't get the atomik holds? From other threads and replies it seems like atomik would be the best.
Since I became the grounding rod for his little rant, please consider my previous comment in context of this thread.
I.e.: go with atomik in this case because given comparable product quality, more holds will be better.
I've not climbed extensively with atomik's holds but they seemed good when I did. Some have rough texture and / or fairly sharp edges. Apparently the now come with a sanding block if they're sharp.
Hmm I could have sworn I already posted the response but I don't see it here... I probably posted it in some other thread where3 people are trying to figure out what the hell I'm talking about now.
The holds I got were from Rocky Mountain Holds. I found them on e-bay, but you can also order direct from the manufacturer. I got a set of 80 holds for 60 bucks plus 10 in shipping. They appear to be selling them with hardware for a little more now, but mine came without the hardware. All the holds are the same sort of mottled coloring.
After looking my holds over again, I'm not noticing sharp edges or points. They are more irregular in shape than the holds I've used at the local gym, but don't seem to rough. Like I said before though, the holds are all pretty good sized and it seems likely that I'll add a handful of little screw on jibs for foot holds.
I ordered almost 300$ worth of holds from atomic and my experience was good. Ok, I called them though and because my wall is steep, they let me order the 60, and replaced some of the incuts with jugs, and I also got the seconds It was a great deal, but we can't expect that kind of a hook up all the time. The holds are strong. The texture is definately on the rougher side, and I am hoping mine actually smooth out a bit, just because my hands can't take the abuse for as much as I climb on them. I have noticed that they don't cake up on chalk and get that smooth slippery effect like other brands, thats just my observation. I lll have to agree, that most the holds are not very tendon friendly, though I always seem to use the steep wall climps, and damn I love those holds. My honest opinion, you should go to the site and order your holds outside the package, and maybe get more holds, and less of the feet holds. When he shipped them too me, they came with all the bolds and T nuts of correct length, and they shipped fast. The only other hold on my wall is a three ball climbing similian, you see these holds on ebay, and its also very nice. Now, I have some synrocks coming, and if your not in a hurry I can tell you how they all compare.
(This post was edited by kane_schutzman on Oct 9, 2008, 7:52 PM)
wow - looking at the rocky mountain holds I'd strongly recommend NOT getting them for a training wall. my assumption is that you're going to be doing a lot of repetitions with your hands on the same holds with a training wall (in contrast, at a gym, because there are 50 different problems, you don't get the same amount of repetition per person per hold). because of this, you really really really need to pick holds that will be tendon friendly otherwise you're asking for a snap crackle *PP* in your tendons.
I also recommend against buying these sorts of big variety packages. for training you want simple tendon friendly shapes. It costs a bit more but the effectiveness is worth it.
I also recommend against buying these sorts of big variety packages. for training you want simple tendon friendly shapes. It costs a bit more but the effectiveness is worth it.
Can you be more specific about what constitutes tendon friendly or not in a hold?
I own and climb on holds from almost every company out there. My experiences with Atomik have been great. I like their texture and the material is not as brittle as metolius- which you will notice when you drop a hold on the floor and it doesn't chip.
Choosing holds is not an easy task. Heck, metolius does make some nice holds and can often be found on sale at places like mgear.com, etc.
And for the ebay companies? I've been burned with buying cheap holds that where not shaped well, too rough or smooth, or made of inferior materials. My advice is to get the bigger pack from atomik and then spend a little money on a small assortment from the smaller or newer companies. This way you can see their qualities first hand without the risk or commitment of getting stuck with a bunch of crappy holds. Then, if you like them buy more. If you are just getting into it then you will definitely be getting more holds in the future.
for $200 I'll sell you 40 small jugs, 10 roof jugs, 50 screw-ons, free shipping AND a video on how to build climbing walls.
The MOST comfortable tendon friendly holds on the planet.
you make holds? Do you have pics?
and I would like a definition of which holds are "tendon friendly" as opposed to not "tendon friendly" too.
There are four main factors which make a hold tendon friendly - and by that I mean finger tendon friendly.
First, the hold is designed so that when you pull on it, the grip is as open handed as possible - with even pressure exerted along the entire underside of your fingers. The hold itself should act to keep tendons pressed against the finger bones. This works like taping to avoid tendon sheath ruptures.
Second, the texture should be as sticky as possible to distribute loads evenly over the entire finger skin surface. A velcro-like stickiness keeps you on the hold so you aren't squeezing the hold like crazy just to stay on. Plastic texture really sucks in this department as compared to a sticky sandstone.
Third, the hold doesn't contain any feature to physically press against a tendon in an uncomfortable way.
Lastly, when you move on a hold you aren't generating any unusual "peak" forces. When you are straining just to hold onto a hold, you don't want to add an "over the top" force when you make climbing moves on the hold.
5 /
71%
It was a great deal, but we can't expect that kind of a hook up all the time. The holds are strong. The texture is definately on the rougher side, and I am hoping mine actually smooth out a bit, just because my hands can't take the abuse for as much as I climb on them. I have noticed that they don't cake up on chalk and get that smooth slippery effect like other brands, thats just my observation. I lll have to agree, that most the holds are not very tendon friendly, though I always seem to use the steep wall climps, and damn I love those holds. My honest opinion, you should go to the site and order your holds outside the package, and maybe get more holds, and less of the feet holds. When he shipped them too me, they came with all the bolds and T nuts of correct length, and they shipped fast. The only other hold on my wall is a three ball climbing similian, you see these holds on ebay, and its also very nice. Now, I have some synrocks coming, and if your not in a hurry I can tell you how they all compare. 
P* in your tendons. 
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