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uhoh
Nov 16, 2008, 10:55 PM
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So, I'm about to complete the setting of my first route. I spent hours and hours cleaning debris, removing sand and other particles, cleaning out the choss, and bleaching all the lichen/mold/moss off the face of the rock.
I've had more experienced climbers give input as to what to look for in terms of making the route more accessible and most suggestions focused on clearing a path to the route rather than on the route itself. As such, I spent about three weeks cutting down trees, pulling stumps, and setting a path.
The suggestions pertaining to the route itself mostly focused on bolting. This was a pain as I've never had to bolt anything before. I created a belay station at the top using four bolts and hangers so that a person could more easily back up their anchors/top rope. After that, I had placed bolts every three feet along the crack. It seemed like a lot of bolts but I figure people will only use them if they want to. It's probably only a 5.6 but I wanted newbies to feel safe, like they're in a gym.
After all the setting, clearing, cleaning, bolting, and so on, I've decided to name it Crackbolt. It's not an original name but I figured it's not that great of a climb anyway.
I do have one last question though for the community. I want to tape the route but I'm worried the tape will come off during the winter weather - snow, ice, etc., etc. Is there any way to make sure it sticks?
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crazy_fingers84
Nov 16, 2008, 11:05 PM
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use spray paint instead of tape. . . it might last a while longer.
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steady_climbing
Nov 16, 2008, 11:06 PM
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Reading this was such a waste of time...... Good try :(
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uhoh
Nov 16, 2008, 11:21 PM
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steady_climbing wrote: Reading this was such a waste of time...... Good try :(
Why is it a waste of time? Is there something else I should be doing to make this climb safer?
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the_leech
Nov 16, 2008, 11:41 PM
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Others may disagree, but I rather liked this:
uhoh wrote: After that, I had placed bolts every three feet along the crack.
Someone will bite. I'm sure of it. Let's just wait and see...
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crazy_fingers84
Nov 16, 2008, 11:54 PM
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In reply to: Is there something else I should be doing to make this climb safer?
You could chip some holds in the face next to the crack or just bolt on some new ones. Not everybody that wants to climb crack has crack climibing skillz.
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paclimber12
Nov 17, 2008, 12:18 AM
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haha i actually laughed
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suilenroc
Nov 17, 2008, 12:26 AM
Post #8 of 70
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uhoh wrote: So, I'm about to complete the setting of my first route. I spent hours and hours cleaning debris, removing sand and other particles, cleaning out the choss, and bleaching all the lichen/mold/moss off the face of the rock. I've had more experienced climbers give input as to what to look for in terms of making the route more accessible and most suggestions focused on clearing a path to the route rather than on the route itself. As such, I spent about three weeks cutting down trees, pulling stumps, and setting a path. The suggestions pertaining to the route itself mostly focused on bolting. This was a pain as I've never had to bolt anything before. I created a belay station at the top using four bolts and hangers so that a person could more easily back up their anchors/top rope. After that, I had placed bolts every three feet along the crack. It seemed like a lot of bolts but I figure people will only use them if they want to. It's probably only a 5.6 but I wanted newbies to feel safe, like they're in a gym. After all the setting, clearing, cleaning, bolting, and so on, I've decided to name it Crackbolt. It's not an original name but I figured it's not that great of a climb anyway. I do have one last question though for the community. I want to tape the route but I'm worried the tape will come off during the winter weather - snow, ice, etc., etc. Is there any way to make sure it sticks?
I am seriously confused about your thread...
1. Bolts on a crack that is 5.6
2. 4 bolts at the top
3. it's not that great of a climb anyway
4. you want to tape the route
Is this a joke????? WTF??????
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uhoh
Nov 17, 2008, 12:36 AM
Post #9 of 70
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suilenroc wrote: uhoh wrote: So, I'm about to complete the setting of my first route. I spent hours and hours cleaning debris, removing sand and other particles, cleaning out the choss, and bleaching all the lichen/mold/moss off the face of the rock. I've had more experienced climbers give input as to what to look for in terms of making the route more accessible and most suggestions focused on clearing a path to the route rather than on the route itself. As such, I spent about three weeks cutting down trees, pulling stumps, and setting a path. The suggestions pertaining to the route itself mostly focused on bolting. This was a pain as I've never had to bolt anything before. I created a belay station at the top using four bolts and hangers so that a person could more easily back up their anchors/top rope. After that, I had placed bolts every three feet along the crack. It seemed like a lot of bolts but I figure people will only use them if they want to. It's probably only a 5.6 but I wanted newbies to feel safe, like they're in a gym. After all the setting, clearing, cleaning, bolting, and so on, I've decided to name it Crackbolt. It's not an original name but I figured it's not that great of a climb anyway. I do have one last question though for the community. I want to tape the route but I'm worried the tape will come off during the winter weather - snow, ice, etc., etc. Is there any way to make sure it sticks? I am seriously confused about your thread... 1. Bolts on a crack that is 5.6 2. 4 bolts at the top 3. it's not that great of a climb anyway 4. you want to tape the route Is this a joke????? WTF??????
Nope, no joke. I just want the climb to be as safe as possible for newbies. The tape, or spray paint if I follow through on that, will be used to mark proper hand and foot placements.
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suilenroc
Nov 17, 2008, 12:52 AM
Post #10 of 70
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In reply to: Nope, no joke. I just want the climb to be as safe as possible for newbies. The tape, or spray paint if I follow through on that, will be used to mark proper hand and foot placements.
Sorry, i honestly think this is one of the most ridiculous things i have ever read on this site!
ADD:
In reply to: safe as possible for newbie
(This post was edited by suilenroc on Nov 17, 2008, 1:02 AM)
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StringBeanBag
Nov 17, 2008, 1:03 AM
Post #11 of 70
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Mann... Seriously? The poor trees...
Noone will climb that, sorry.. At least you have the enthusiasm!
Prepare to be bashed... Expect bashing... bad. baad. bashing.
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kyleshea
Nov 17, 2008, 1:12 AM
Post #12 of 70
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Registered: Dec 21, 2006
Posts: 1716
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uhoh wrote: So, I'm about to complete the setting of my first route. I spent hours and hours cleaning debris, removing sand and other particles, cleaning out the choss, and bleaching all the lichen/mold/moss off the face of the rock. I've had more experienced climbers give input as to what to look for in terms of making the route more accessible and most suggestions focused on clearing a path to the route rather than on the route itself. As such, I spent about three weeks cutting down trees, pulling stumps, and setting a path. The suggestions pertaining to the route itself mostly focused on bolting. This was a pain as I've never had to bolt anything before. I created a belay station at the top using four bolts and hangers so that a person could more easily back up their anchors/top rope. After that, I had placed bolts every three feet along the crack. It seemed like a lot of bolts but I figure people will only use them if they want to. It's probably only a 5.6 but I wanted newbies to feel safe, like they're in a gym. After all the setting, clearing, cleaning, bolting, and so on, I've decided to name it Crackbolt. It's not an original name but I figured it's not that great of a climb anyway. I do have one last question though for the community. I want to tape the route but I'm worried the tape will come off during the winter weather - snow, ice, etc., etc. Is there any way to make sure it sticks?
have you installed the name plaque into the rock at the base yet?
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TKubik
Nov 17, 2008, 1:12 AM
Post #13 of 70
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Registered: Oct 22, 2008
Posts: 115
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I can't wait to send that biatch!
EDIT: Not just send, REDPOINT that MF'er
(This post was edited by TKubik on Nov 17, 2008, 1:13 AM)
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lagwagonpcp
Nov 17, 2008, 1:29 AM
Post #15 of 70
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Posts: 84
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this is stupid
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kyleshea
Nov 17, 2008, 1:35 AM
Post #16 of 70
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Registered: Dec 21, 2006
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uhoh wrote: suilenroc wrote: uhoh wrote: So, I'm about to complete the setting of my first route. I spent hours and hours cleaning debris, removing sand and other particles, cleaning out the choss, and bleaching all the lichen/mold/moss off the face of the rock. I've had more experienced climbers give input as to what to look for in terms of making the route more accessible and most suggestions focused on clearing a path to the route rather than on the route itself. As such, I spent about three weeks cutting down trees, pulling stumps, and setting a path. The suggestions pertaining to the route itself mostly focused on bolting. This was a pain as I've never had to bolt anything before. I created a belay station at the top using four bolts and hangers so that a person could more easily back up their anchors/top rope. After that, I had placed bolts every three feet along the crack. It seemed like a lot of bolts but I figure people will only use them if they want to. It's probably only a 5.6 but I wanted newbies to feel safe, like they're in a gym. After all the setting, clearing, cleaning, bolting, and so on, I've decided to name it Crackbolt. It's not an original name but I figured it's not that great of a climb anyway. I do have one last question though for the community. I want to tape the route but I'm worried the tape will come off during the winter weather - snow, ice, etc., etc. Is there any way to make sure it sticks? I am seriously confused about your thread... 1. Bolts on a crack that is 5.6 2. 4 bolts at the top 3. it's not that great of a climb anyway 4. you want to tape the route Is this a joke????? WTF?????? Nope, no joke. I just want the climb to be as safe as possible for newbies. The tape, or spray paint if I follow through on that, will be used to mark proper hand and foot placements.
any types of marking for gear placements, you know, for the core climbers who will ignore the bolts?
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Lazlo
Nov 17, 2008, 1:50 AM
Post #17 of 70
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Thank you for the bolt spacing. I hate top stepping.
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the_leech
Nov 17, 2008, 3:18 AM
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uhoh wrote: As such, I spent about three weeks cutting down trees, pulling stumps, and setting a path.
By the way, let me know if you need any help with that.
I love setting new routes. And I hate trees.
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hopperhopper
Nov 17, 2008, 3:51 AM
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suilenroc wrote: In reply to: Nope, no joke. I just want the climb to be as safe as possible for newbies. The tape, or spray paint if I follow through on that, will be used to mark proper hand and foot placements. Sorry, i honestly think this is one of the most ridiculous things i have ever read on this site! ADD: In reply to: safe as possible for newbie
Hook, line, and sinker.
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shockabuku
Nov 17, 2008, 4:11 AM
Post #20 of 70
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kyleshea wrote: have you installed the name plaque into the rock at the base yet?
Not just a name plaque but it should also have an engraved image of the route with beta!
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mach2
Nov 17, 2008, 4:14 AM
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The Edmondontella (sp??) guy was sooo much funnier than this. I give it a C+ for the effort.
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uhoh
Nov 17, 2008, 6:07 PM
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the_leech wrote: uhoh wrote: As such, I spent about three weeks cutting down trees, pulling stumps, and setting a path. By the way, let me know if you need any help with that. I love setting new routes. And I hate trees.
I don't hate trees but they were certainly in the way of development. Are you a lumberjack?
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shrug7
Nov 17, 2008, 6:14 PM
Post #23 of 70
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uhoh wrote: the_leech wrote: uhoh wrote: As such, I spent about three weeks cutting down trees, pulling stumps, and setting a path. By the way, let me know if you need any help with that. I love setting new routes. And I hate trees. I don't hate trees but they were certainly in the way of development. Are you a lumberjack?
So where is this bolted crack that is shrubbery free... 
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jollymon
Nov 17, 2008, 6:26 PM
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Registered: Jun 5, 2008
Posts: 55
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Dude if its in the way of development, it deserves the ax. I am interested in some other route "modifications" that might work out well for ya here... can you give us some more specs on the wall itself? Size, features, hey post a pic if ya can! We will be sure to give ya the best input to improve the rock structure that way.
-Jolly
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