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NJ_Climber
Nov 21, 2008, 8:08 PM
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Registered: Oct 10, 2008
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Hey guys,
Right now I'm almost finished with an overview map of almost all the classic climbs in the High Rocks Section of Ralph Stover State Park. I've posted the almost completed version of this map below.
I wanted to get some constructive feedback on the map. Positive or Negative. If I've made any major errors in location please feel free to correct but bare in mind that it's not supposed to be perfect but more of a general overview. Nothing supplements a guidebook description. But for easy lookup and access I think this will work quite nicely. I really need help with the locations of any climbs in or around Chain Reaction. Plus I just didn't finish adding all on Far Face but I've got those under control. Once this is complete I will post full version on RockClimbing.com.
Thanks in advance for any and all suggestions.
--Kirk
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tomcat
Nov 27, 2008, 2:42 PM
Post #2 of 18
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Registered: Sep 15, 2006
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New Generation is missing.
Isn't Loose Block left of Cramped Thumb Face?
Friable Alternative.Riff Raff Eliminate.Couple good routes there that I don't see here.
Dandyline is a good pitch to the right of Long Chimney.
The Serpent.Wizard of Maz?
Looks good though.
Tom Stryker
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skunkhand
Nov 27, 2008, 3:49 PM
Post #3 of 18
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Registered: Feb 9, 2005
Posts: 25
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Nice guide.... but why, Ralph Stover has gotta be one of the worst, established, climbing areas in all of pennsylvania.
I wish you had put your efforts towards one of the many other crags in pa, cause you really did a nice job.
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Hennessey
Nov 27, 2008, 9:49 PM
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Registered: Dec 3, 2007
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according to A Climbers Guide To High Rocks:
1-Falling 5.8
2-Orive Direct 5.10b
3-Orive 5.8
4-Triple Overhang 5.7
4a-Righthand Variation 5.8
4b-farrighthand variation 5.9
5-ivy leaf left 5.4
6-ivy leaf right 5.4
7-finger in the dyke 5.6
8-The practice climb 5.2
9-shit face left hand variation 5.9
9a-shit face middle 5.11c
9b-shit face right hand variation
10-route 1 5.5
11-route 2 5.5
12-stopper ceiling 5.10d
13-Neanderthal 5.8+
14-bootbuster ceiling 5.8
15-hummingbird 5.6
16-airy route 5.3
17-schnitzelizer 5.10a
18-tango superdirect 5.10a
19-violent femmes 5.13
20-mass x energy=swing 5.11+
21-tango 5.7
22-gorilla 5.7
22a-gorilla slabs 5.8
23-crummy rotten crack 5.10b
24-new generation 5.8
25-loose block 5.2
26-shale storm 5.9+
27-cramped thumb 5.5
28-director overhang 5.8
29-cramped thumb direct 5.8
30-afterburner 5.10b
31-higher than i 5.7
32-three buttresses 5.4
33-nonsense 5.7
34-open book 5.3
35-cyfleusterau 5.7
36-wild wall 5.9
37-tales from the crypt 5.10
37a-vai a sinestra 5.7
38-crumble for you 5.10
39-deans list 5.11
40-friable alternative 5.8
41-rattlesnake 5.7
42-riff raff5.9
42a-maz variation 5.10
43-zig zag 5.9
44-open face 5.5
45-open face direct 5.7
46-long chimney 5.2
47-orangutang 5.8
47a-dandy line 5.8
48-man of science 5.12c/d
49-the problem 5.12a
50-left face of green grungy thing 5.8
51-grungy green thing 5.5
52-the garden of eden 5.4
53-adam 5.3
54-the outsider 5.8/5.9
55-paradise lost 5.11
56-the serpent 5.9
57-leshtovers 5.7
58-outcast 5.8+
59-eve 5.6
60-the wizard of maz 5.10
61-prow 5.9
62-my brothers leeper 5.7
63-abd overhang 5.8
64-up and up 5.9+
65-welcome to stover 5.10b
66-foot free and fancy loose 5.7
67-multiple arrests; no convictions 5.10
68-hawks neck 5.8
69-hawks nest 5.6
70-ronica's roof 5.8
71-crack magic 5.5
72-technicolor 5.8
73-speechwriter rules
74-the diamond 5.10
75-noncencus 5.9
76-nothing yet 5.8+
77-oh promise me 5.4
78-new route 5.10a/b
79-the hearth 5.8
80-don juan 5.11
81-the geiger sanction 5.6
82-jammin 5.1
83-squattin room only 5.6
84-new testiment 5.11a
85-joshua 1:9 5.7
85a-coonyard traverse 5.10
86-epitaph 5.6
87-wam jam thank you cam 5.6
88-just a stem away 5.8
89-un-named arete 5.10a
90-chain reaction direct 5.10c
91-chain reaction 5.10
92-deaf and dumb 5.4
92a-blind and deaf 5.9
93-beautiful loser 5.10a
94-games without frontiers 5.9
94a-la dolce vita 5.7
95-no self control 5.6
96-old chimney
97-run out of favors 5.9+
98-dead tree 5.5
99-hook, line and swinger 5.10 a3
100-obnoxious partner 5.8+
101-east chimney 5.0
102-called on account of pain 5.11d
103-The phone booth 5.10a (personal favorite)
104-far face 5.7
104a-far face contrived 5.9/5.10a
105-far face direct 5.8+
106-far face corner 5.4
107-the last stand 5.8/5.9+
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NJ_Climber
Dec 3, 2008, 3:57 AM
Post #5 of 18
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Registered: Oct 10, 2008
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Hey guys below, is the updated map. I've included all suggested routes(Thanks Hennessey) in the appropriate locations and made changes to existing ones(Thanks Tomcat.) I feel this map is 100% complete and accurate. Double check my work and give it the green light to be posted as topo of Stover.
Thanks everyone.
-Kirk
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abobo123
Dec 3, 2008, 11:59 PM
Post #6 of 18
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I don't know if you want to show it, but the Garden of Eden is on it's own ledge coming off The Great Zawn Gully, about 40 feet above the undercliff trail.
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NJ_Climber
Dec 4, 2008, 1:50 AM
Post #7 of 18
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Registered: Oct 10, 2008
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Yea I thought about that...what if I draw another line which represents the ledge and have the locations for climbs put up there? Thanks again for the feedback. I want this to be as useful as possible.
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adatesman
Dec 4, 2008, 2:51 AM
Post #8 of 18
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Registered: Jul 13, 2005
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I may be a bit late, but adding some trail landmarks would be nice. I don't go to Stover very often, so tend to get all turned around trying to find stuff in the middle.
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NJ_Climber
Dec 10, 2008, 1:31 AM
Post #9 of 18
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Registered: Oct 10, 2008
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*Update*
1.) Added Falling 5.8 to the Descent Trail
2.) Added Garden on Eden Ledge
3.) Renumbered all climbs.
This is it guys, the final version. Unfortunately Adatesman, I didn't like how cluttered the picture looks when I added a few boulders as landmarks. There's already a ton of data on one picture, didn't want to make it more confusing. Sorry.
-Kirk
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adatesman
Dec 10, 2008, 1:37 AM
Post #10 of 18
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Registered: Jul 13, 2005
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Hey, no problem and thanks for trying. I can still just use the pics in the guidebooks like I always have.
Thanks for the work!
-a.
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joeforte
Dec 11, 2008, 3:35 AM
Post #11 of 18
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Registered: May 9, 2005
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I agree it needs some landmarks. Finding a climb in the middle of stover would be very hard with this topo. It's a good job so far, but it needs 3 or 4 major landmarks along the cliffline to be usable.
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Hennessey
Dec 11, 2008, 3:57 AM
Post #12 of 18
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Registered: Dec 3, 2007
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What about Lower Stover and The Gray Walls?
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marc801
Dec 11, 2008, 4:53 AM
Post #13 of 18
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Registered: Aug 1, 2005
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skunkhand wrote: Nice guide.... but why, Ralph Stover has gotta be one of the worst, established, climbing areas in all of pennsylvania.
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NJ_Climber
Dec 12, 2008, 2:32 PM
Post #14 of 18
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In reply to: Jorforte wrote: I agree it needs some landmarks. Finding a climb in the middle of stover would be very hard with this topo. It's a good job so far, but it needs 3 or 4 major landmarks along the cliffline to be usable.
I agree that using this soley as a guide would not be all that helpful w/o landmarks but that is not my intention. I am trying to create a quick reference map where one could use the picture as well as an RC climb descriptions or guidebook info for specifics. If you went out to Stover with just this map you'd be able to find a few climbs but w/o specific route info this map is useless.
If anyone wants to add landmarks feel free but it's far to cluttered for me to post w/ them. Sorry but please use RC descriptions for specifics. Also, print out climb descriptions of routes that are close by the one you want to send.
Over the next few months, I will be posting topo images of Stover climbs on RC.com. This, in conjunction w/ my map, should make everyone capable of locating the climbs at Stover.
Thanks in advance for your understanding.
(This post was edited by NJ_Climber on Dec 12, 2008, 4:54 PM)
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joeforte
Dec 12, 2008, 2:43 PM
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Registered: May 9, 2005
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Sounds like a few route topos along with this map could be a nice resource. Thanks for the work Kirk.
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rbrodie
Dec 12, 2008, 6:49 PM
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Registered: Oct 21, 2008
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Nice job. I like the use of color to help differentiate the different faces. 
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sp00ki
May 4, 2012, 9:09 PM
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Registered: Jul 2, 2009
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I hate bumping such an old thread, but:
Is there any way to differentiate the bolted climbs from the non-bolted ones? Are they zone by zone, or climb by climb?
I'm hoping to check out some of the sport climbing there, and would prefer to go right to them instead of traveling the entire cliffline (if possible).
Thanks!
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tomcat
May 5, 2012, 1:36 AM
Post #18 of 18
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Registered: Sep 15, 2006
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I will try to help. The "sport climbs" are spread out.
Tales from the Crypt, 10a, has been reduced to a sport climb by the gradual addition of the one bolt we placed after the first ascent, followed by another below it, and another on a direct start.
Welcome to Stover, 10c, ditto, short.
There is a new sport climb left of Orangutang at 5.7/5.8 I hear.
The Problem was always a bolt ladder, at 5.11c/d , and now Man of Science is too at 5.12.
Not sure about Violent Femmes, or the route right of Tales,but they have bolted cruxes.
At the Edge, the Great Wall got bolted, which was 5.8X, but even now it's sporty.
(This post was edited by tomcat on May 5, 2012, 1:38 AM)
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