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ski.ninja
Dec 2, 2008, 11:53 PM
Post #1 of 4
(2575 views)
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Registered: Oct 8, 2008
Posts: 123
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Destructive Testing. God, I love those two words put together. When I was a lifty (briefly) they showed us a video of a chairlift being destroyed to see what would happen. My conclusion: If a fixed grip lift rolls back more than one full tower your best option is to just jump. But enough of my nostalgia.
This is a series of excellent videos showing how the UIAA breaks things in the pursuit of quality. The videos are an excellent way to see how everything from carabiners to ice axes are expected to fail if overloaded. I found it particularly interesting watching the rope drop tests and the knot pulling tests (goes to show why you should NEVER tie a figure 8 for a rappel knot.) If nothing else, you get to see a lot of hardware get smashed. Not exactly quantitative, though.
Video 1: Carabiners (open gate), harnesses, cams, pitons.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xparZFsBS40
Video 2: Chocks, bolts, ice axes
http://www.youtube.com/...&feature=related
Video 3: Belay devices, load limiters, rope tests
http://www.youtube.com/...&feature=channel
P.S.
Here's the lift test video
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=D8rXiN_Oys4
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epoch
Moderator
Dec 3, 2008, 12:18 AM
Post #2 of 4
(2563 views)
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Registered: Apr 28, 2005
Posts: 32163
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Moved thread from Beginners to the Lab.
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vivalargo
Dec 5, 2008, 6:04 PM
Post #4 of 4
(2412 views)
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Registered: Nov 26, 2002
Posts: 1512
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This goes far is showing how massively strong most of our climbing gear is. Now if we could just get them to test the systems that are in common use, when the gear is used in concert with slings and biners et al.
JL
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