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Indonesia Long and big wall routes
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guangzhou


Jan 5, 2009, 1:12 AM
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Indonesia Long and big wall routes
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I posted this in International, but I think it's better here.

Well, I had to skip out on a Big Wall First ascent because of rain, but I used my time wisely. Followed up on a rumor of a nice wall and find a great one. Quick post on my blog with some photos.

I'll head there in march when the rainy season is over and I can climb.

http://class5photos.blogspot.com/

Cheers
Eman


sonso45


Jan 7, 2009, 6:58 PM
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Re: [guangzhou] Indonesia Long and big wall routes [In reply to]
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Where would I fly into to get to that rock? Nice photos but wish they were bigger. Sounds like a strange combination of rock, similar to Devil's Tower:
http://class5photos.blogspot.com/


(This post was edited by sonso45 on Jan 7, 2009, 6:59 PM)


guangzhou


Jan 8, 2009, 11:38 PM
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Re: [sonso45] Indonesia Long and big wall routes [In reply to]
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sonso45 wrote:
Where would I fly into to get to that rock? Nice photos but wish they were bigger. Sounds like a strange combination of rock, similar to Devil's Tower:
http://class5photos.blogspot.com/

Bigger would be nice, but 700 to 800 feet of untouched crack climbing is pretty good.

Best place to fly into would be Surabaya. From there, you're looking at a four hour drive. If you do make atrip out let me know. They are a couple other wall that are bigger in that area.

One wall offers 1100 feet of granite, but not much in the way of natural protection. Will require some (okay lots) of bolts.

They are a couple dozen granite walls in the region. Must are 500 to 600 feet in height. A few will have the occasion gear route, but most will require bolting.

If you're ever in Surabaya on business, I have a sport crags I've been developing not far away. Roughly 40 routes from 5.9 to 5.13. Routes are between 20 and 30 meters long.

Cheers
Eman


sonso45


Jan 9, 2009, 2:35 AM
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Re: [guangzhou] Indonesia Long and big wall routes [In reply to]
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By bigger, I meant the photo itself, not the rock. It is big enough but hard to see. I have a friend in Jakarta that wants me to visit and this would tie in nicely. I'll have to start a plan, it would be great.


guangzhou


Jan 9, 2009, 4:44 AM
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Re: [sonso45] Indonesia Long and big wall routes [In reply to]
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Jakarta is the opposite end of the island, but an easy flight. If you do come, let me know and I see if we can hook up and climb.

Bandung near Jakarta also has a few routes that are safe. Roughly 20 routes there were rebolted and should be safe for a few years.

Wish Indonesians would use Stainless Steel. Here, I supply stainless to the local climbers if they want it. I like safe routes, especially with my confidence in local medical care.

Cheers


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