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bakoprc
Jan 20, 2009, 1:22 AM
Post #1 of 4
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Registered: Jul 17, 2006
Posts: 3
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im a trad climber and have recently been climbing sport. when i fall, i tend to push off with whatever is left on the rock, and i hit the rock hard when i come to a stop. WHATS THE BEST WAY TO FALL?
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N_Oo_B
Jan 20, 2009, 6:38 AM
Post #2 of 4
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Registered: May 21, 2007
Posts: 463
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with a belayer that can pay some slack and cush the fall more? Just a guess, I don't take many falls and bounce belayers alot.
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lena_chita
Moderator
Jan 20, 2009, 4:37 PM
Post #3 of 4
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Registered: Jun 27, 2006
Posts: 6087
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Watch this one:
http://www.rockclimbing.com/..._on_a_5.10a_491.html
ignore the stupid comments.
The video explains very visually what happens when you:
-push off the wall with your hands, while leaving your feet on the rock, as if you were on a toprope and expecting to sit back and brace your feet against the wall
-don't get extra slack from the belayer (in that case the belayer couldn't give much, there was a ledge, if I remember).
This should give you the impetus to learn. 
Pushing off usually happens with deliberate falls. If you fall unintentionally, you just fall, usually you don't push off. (by unintentional fall I mean the fall while making a move. If you had a chance to say: oh, ugh, sh!t, f&ck, no!, falling, or any combination of the above, before taking the fall, then you made a DECISION to fall, and thus had a chance to make that fall more controlled before you let go)
As to HOW you re-learn-- you do it by taking deliberate falls and using your head while doing it, telling yourself what you need to do, and what you shouldn't do. On overhanging terrain the best way to fall is to
-get the feet/legs clear of the rope and maybe the rock, too.
-let go with your hands.
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bakoprc
Jan 22, 2009, 4:28 AM
Post #4 of 4
(552 views)
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Registered: Jul 17, 2006
Posts: 3
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thank you for that, good info, well put. plus i needed a vivid mental picture floating in the back of my head
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