use it all the time. bomber.

I am trying to envision what you are talking about, and it's coming up blank. Could you clarify?

Double figure 8 (super 8) tied in one end of the rope. The two bights are clipped to two bolts near the top of the wall. Jugging commences.

(It took me a minute to figure out what he/she was asking as well.)

whats up everyone...just a quick question...

would a double figure 8 work as a setup for practicing jugging?

so basically we would tie the double figure 8, and each "ear" would go to a biner to a bolt in the gym...thanks for any help

Are you guys talking about rabbit-ears?

[image]http://www.chockstone.org/TechTips/BunnyEar6l.JPG[/image]

NO. A double figure 8 is two independent figure 8's on a bight. THat is a dog-ear (or if you prefer a rabbit ear) figure eight. Two independent figure 8's are redundant whereas a dog ear is not. BUt the dog ear is easier to equalize.

Josh

Ok, that makes sense. I thought he wanted to tie a figure eight on a bight on the quickdraw at every bolt, and then jugging and cleaning the line.

NO. A double figure 8 is two independent figure 8's on a bight. THat is a dog-ear (or if you prefer a rabbit ear) figure eight. Two independent figure 8's are redundant whereas a dog ear is not. BUt the dog ear is easier to equalize.
Josh

HOWEVER, both the bunny ears and this "Double figure 8 knot of yours have NO redundancy. Look where the rope comes into the knot..... Oh yes a single rope...... thus no redundancy.

patmay, the advantages of the dbl fig 8 are:
1) don't need to worry about gates
2) don't need to worry about the length of the draws
3) don't need to worry about if the line you want the rope hanging from isn't exactly in between the two bolts- you can change this by shortening one arm and not the other
4) don't need to worry about if the bolts are too far apart horizontally to give a nice tight angle
5) don't even need to worry about bolts being horizontal. hell, if there isn't a bolted top anchor you could theoretically combine the two last bolts into a vertically arranged anchor, they'd be a little far apart, but who cares? people tend to only think of horizontally spaced anchors, but in terms of angles a horizontally arranged anchor is far superior.


not to say that your way is bad; hell i use that set up all the time. just pointing some crap out, trying to make this as complicated as possible.

Firstly, I will openly admit, I have no idea how you create two independent figure eights on a single bight.

HOWEVER, both the bunny ears and this "Double figure 8 knot of yours have NO redundancy. Look where the rope comes into the knot..... Oh yes a single rope...... thus no redundancy.

Incidently, I searched Double figure 8 knot and nothing obvious was found. Care to clarify what this knot is?

The double loop figure eight [bunny/rabbit/dog ears] creates two secure loops that can be clipped to two different anchors. It is not truly redundant, because if one loop severs, the other loop may slip through the knot, causing anchor failure. However, the rope is rarely redundant anyway.

Ahhhh, ,now I understand where you are coming from. I did teach that method while I was guiding.

What you are refering to cannot apply to the OP's question, where he is using two bolts at a gym, rather than a second rope to a node point.

I think the confusion is resulting from the fact that the method you describe involves a second rope to create the anchor (threfore everything should be redundant) whereas a bunny ear / dog-ear involves using the main line which CANNOT (and doesn't need to) be redundant using single rope techniques.

Oh, and to avoid confusion in the future, you are describing doubled figure eightS, rather than A double figure of eight