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rockfax
Apr 14, 2009, 8:31 AM
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An accident over the Easter weekend has prompted discussion as to the safety of open slings fixed with rubber bands. It is not known if this gear set-up caused the accident, but it has brought a potentially dangerous scenario in to the public eye.
VIDEO HERE: http://www.ukclimbing.com/news/item.php?id=46912
Topic - slate quarry accident saturday - thank you
http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?n=350665
Mick
UKClimbing.com
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dreday3000
Apr 14, 2009, 12:32 PM
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Registered: Jun 15, 2006
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Interesting video but who uses rubber bands on their open slings?
I don't.
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adatesman
Apr 14, 2009, 2:01 PM
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cfnubbler
Apr 14, 2009, 2:05 PM
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Lots of people do....
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camhead
Apr 14, 2009, 2:07 PM
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hmm. I never thought of that particular scenario, but am thinking that since it is the kind of thing that mostly happens when gear is getting jostled around in a back pack, rather than something that can happen on the rock, it's not a hugely scary thing.
I also usually just use climbing tape on slings when I need to fix the carabiner in place.
(edited to fix rampant typos, dammit)
(This post was edited by camhead on Apr 14, 2009, 2:25 PM)
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dingus
Apr 14, 2009, 2:46 PM
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camhead wrote: hmm. I never thought of that particular scenario, but am thinking that since it is the kind of thing that mostly happens when gear is getting jostled around in a back pack, rather than something that can happen on the rock, it's not a hugely scary thing. I also usually just use climbing tape on slings when I need to fix the carabiner in place. (edited to fix rampant typos, dammit)
I could absolutely see one of these poor man's draws unclipping itself after getting jostled as the leader climbs, esp, in trad situations where there is a pile of accompanying gear to do the clipping action.
I think this could be a very serious safety issue.
DMT
DMT
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majid_sabet
Apr 14, 2009, 5:17 PM
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climbing is becoming a very dangerous sport. Now we have to start checking every items before we clip them in while we are hanging between heaven and hell
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Alpine07
Apr 14, 2009, 5:25 PM
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majid_sabet wrote: climbing is becoming a very dangerous sport. Now we have to start checking every items before we clip them in while we are hanging between heaven and hell
Becoming a dangerous sport? I'd say the fact that this subject is being discussed on the internet means that it is becoming a safer sport. It's always been dangerous.
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huizhaecka
Apr 22, 2009, 9:51 AM
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adatesman wrote: It gets suggested from time to time and is exactly why Petzl sells their Strings. Rubber bands work just as well and are far cheaper, so why not? Point is that its a valid concern and one more reason to always check your gear. Anyway, I'm more curious why the guy in the video has castration rings laying around..... I'm a hick, but damn!
Here in Germany this safety issue came up approx 2 years ago when an accident was reported in the mountain security magazine "Berg & Steigen". At least 2 accidents are known.
By the way: Petzl does not sell Strings to be used with normal slings! In the product manual is a warning about using it with open slings. Also on the web http://www.petzl.com/en/node/9885
bye
huizhaecka
PS: I heard only the advice to fixate a figure8 in the carabiner with rubberbands, maybe some people misunderstood this a "fixate carabiners with rubber bands".
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Adk
Apr 22, 2009, 8:24 PM
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Registered: Dec 2, 2006
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Once upon a time a mentor of mine told me never to teach or show anything to anyone that could result in their death.
I'm gunna die now! 
I'm not sure why people try to get all fancy all the time. Just go climb for heaven sake. Fancy, modern or clever does not always mean better! Don't read this as "ADK...you must like babes in grandma panties!
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graniteboy
Apr 22, 2009, 10:02 PM
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Registered: Dec 1, 2001
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Alpine07 wrote: majid_sabet wrote: climbing is becoming a very dangerous sport. Now we have to start checking every items before we clip them in while we are hanging between heaven and hell Becoming a dangerous sport? I'd say the fact that this subject is being discussed on the internet means that it is becoming a safer sport. It's always been dangerous.
Whaddya Two Young Whippersnappers Mean??
When I WAS A BOY, We didn't have no damned Gravity.....Climbin was safe and fun...then that durned GOD guy came along and created Gravitational Forces,,,screwed the whole damned thang up!!!
Whippersnappers....
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altelis
Apr 27, 2009, 1:37 PM
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graniteboy wrote: Alpine07 wrote: majid_sabet wrote: climbing is becoming a very dangerous sport. Now we have to start checking every items before we clip them in while we are hanging between heaven and hell Becoming a dangerous sport? I'd say the fact that this subject is being discussed on the internet means that it is becoming a safer sport. It's always been dangerous. Whaddya Two Young Whippersnappers Mean?? When I WAS A BOY, We didn't have no damned Gravity.....Climbin was safe and fun...then that durned GOD guy came along and created Gravitational Forces,,,screwed the whole damned thang up!!! Whippersnappers....
seems to me this here sport would be BORING AS HELL without that damn darned gravity. know what i mean?
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