Forums: Climbing Disciplines: Trad Climbing:
The Best of the Best
RSS FeedRSS Feeds for Trad Climbing

Premier Sponsor:

 


rock_fencer


May 23, 2009, 3:22 PM
Post #1 of 12 (2903 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Jan 7, 2005
Posts: 752

The Best of the Best
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

My bro is getting his PhD in mid june and im making a six week road trip with my gf to some areas out west i have never climbed at. What i need is some information on these locations.

Any access issues, Places to Camp , Best Gear Lines 5.11 and under (multipitch 5.10 and under), best guide book, and general weather conditions in early and late june for. Also if you have any suggestions on what other sites to hit im driving from IL across to OR then down to LA for graduation up to BC and meeting up wth friends in Wyoming for the cirque of towers.

Devils Tower
Smith Rock
Needles
Yosemite
Squamish
Cirque of Towers

Im mainly heading north because i figured the wouth west would be too hot by then.

Cheers
T


rock_fencer


May 23, 2009, 7:07 PM
Post #2 of 12 (2839 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Jan 7, 2005
Posts: 752

Re: [rock_fencer] The Best of the Best [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

bump


Johnny_Fang


May 23, 2009, 7:41 PM
Post #3 of 12 (2832 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Nov 19, 2006
Posts: 289

Re: [rock_fencer] The Best of the Best [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

rock_fencer wrote:
My bro is getting his PhD in mid june and im making a six week road trip with my gf to some areas out west i have never climbed at. What i need is some information on these locations.

Any access issues, Places to Camp , Best Gear Lines 5.11 and under (multipitch 5.10 and under), best guide book, and general weather conditions in early and late june for. Also if you have any suggestions on what other sites to hit im driving from IL across to OR then down to LA for graduation up to BC and meeting up wth friends in Wyoming for the cirque of towers.

Devils Tower
Smith Rock
Needles
Yosemite
Squamish
Cirque of Towers

Im mainly heading north because i figured the wouth west would be too hot by then.

Cheers
T

don't forget vedawoo. you could actually go to boulder, co, then to vedawoo, then to city of rocks, then to smith rock, then index, then squamish, each are an easy day drive from the one before it. it's been my road-trip dream for awhile now, though in the reverse order.

even though it's more northern, all of those places are going to be hot in july.


summerprophet


May 23, 2009, 8:01 PM
Post #4 of 12 (2824 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Jan 17, 2004
Posts: 764

Re: [rock_fencer] The Best of the Best [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

rock_fencer wrote:
Best Gear Lines 5.11 and under (multipitch 5.10 and under)
Devils Tower
Smith Rock
Needles
Yosemite
Squamish
Cirque of Towers
Smith:
Trezler, Tale of two shitties, Pioneer route on monkey face, Cave route on brenton spire, Spideman buttress, Zebra to Zion
Yosemite
Royal Arches, Sons of Yesterday,Any of the East Butts, Commitment, any of toulumne domes,
Squamish:
Squamish Buttress via Rock On
Snake, dierdra, Grand wall, exasperator, Smoke Bluff connection,


rock_fencer


May 24, 2009, 4:28 PM
Post #5 of 12 (2756 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Jan 7, 2005
Posts: 752

Re: [summerprophet] The Best of the Best [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

just looked at the NPS website for Devils Tower and notice the June voluntary closure...do people abide by this and if so whats a good substitute location that is relatively close.


Pizzafarno


May 24, 2009, 4:39 PM
Post #6 of 12 (2749 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Apr 21, 2009
Posts: 11

Re: [rock_fencer] The Best of the Best [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

Yosemite- Best place to camp is camp 4. Walls are near. Best route would be royal archs, also, you may consider snake dike on half dome as well.


(This post was edited by Pizzafarno on May 24, 2009, 4:40 PM)


rock_fencer


May 25, 2009, 5:52 AM
Post #7 of 12 (2695 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Jan 7, 2005
Posts: 752

Re: [rock_fencer] The Best of the Best [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

thanks for the info guys and gals, anybody else have some more beta


healyje


May 25, 2009, 7:44 AM
Post #8 of 12 (2671 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Aug 22, 2004
Posts: 4204

Re: [rock_fencer] The Best of the Best [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

PM me when it looks like you're going to be making it to OR. Oh, and I'd say respect the voluntary closure at DT - plenty of rock out west.


altelis


May 25, 2009, 2:33 PM
Post #9 of 12 (2612 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Nov 10, 2004
Posts: 2168

Re: [healyje] The Best of the Best [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

healyje wrote:
PM me when it looks like you're going to be making it to OR. Oh, and I'd say respect the voluntary closure at DT - plenty of rock out west.

that is koreckt


cchas


May 26, 2009, 2:50 PM
Post #10 of 12 (2531 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Jun 9, 2005
Posts: 344

Re: [rock_fencer] The Best of the Best [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

-Yosemite is good but can be hot, but Tuolumne is close by.
-High Sierras: check out "The Incredible Hulk" with either Red Dihedral or Positive Vibrations in the range you are talking about.
-Don't miss the Needles (California). An awesome place
-If the crowds in Yosemite get to you, go to Calavaras Dome. "Silk Road" is not to be missed and "Wall of the Worlds" is pretty good.
-Check the weather and when you are on your way back from Squamish and if the weather is good, hit up the Bugaboos. The place is not to be missed.


moose_droppings


May 26, 2009, 3:14 PM
Post #11 of 12 (2514 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Jun 7, 2005
Posts: 3371

Re: [rock_fencer] The Best of the Best [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

rock_fencer wrote:
just looked at the NPS website for Devils Tower and notice the June voluntary closure...do people abide by this and if so whats a good substitute location that is relatively close.

While not mandatory, IMO it would be best to honor the closure. There's plenty to do not far from DT in the Black Hills.


byran


May 28, 2009, 9:34 PM
Post #12 of 12 (2384 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Jul 6, 2006
Posts: 266

Re: [rock_fencer] The Best of the Best [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

rock_fencer wrote:
Devils Tower
Smith Rock
Needles
Yosemite
Squamish
Cirque of Towers

You might consider adding the Tetons and Rocky Mountain NP to the list. Both offer great climbing in June/July. And although I've never been, the pictures I've seen of the North Cascades in Washington look fantastic. It's not far out of the way either if you're heading to Squamish. Also try to not get too hung up on Yosemite Valley. There's miles of granite that's more free-climbing friendly on the Eastside, with cooler temps and less people. Supertopo has a selection of excellent guides for the Valley, Tuolumne, South Tahoe and the High Sierra. Peter Croft's "The Good, the Great, and the Awesome" and "Bishop Area Rock Climbs" are also good guides for the area.


Forums : Climbing Disciplines : Trad Climbing

 


Search for (options)

Log In:

Username:
Password: Remember me:

Go Register
Go Lost Password?



Follow us on Twiter Become a Fan on Facebook