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littlemissme14
Jun 30, 2009, 5:56 PM
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I am heading to the New River Gorge for 4th of July Weekend and i have never been before.
I have been climbing indoors for about 10 months and have climbed outdoors a few times at Stone Mountain, The Red and Pilot Mountain. I want to get on some good climbs in the 5.9 to 5.10 range that are sport. I have lead a few times and want to do more this weekend.
Anyone have any good suggestions for me to try out.
Thanks
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lena_chita
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Jun 30, 2009, 6:05 PM
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Stop at Waterstone Outdoors and get a guidebook.
The common places people go to for the sport climbs in 5.9-5.10 range are: Summersville Lake, Sandstonia/Tattoo Wall, Kaymoor-Butchers Branch, and a small section of Endless Wall called the Kaymoor Slab.
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limeydave
Jun 30, 2009, 6:29 PM
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Totally Tammy 10a at Rico Suave Buttress.
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Carnage
Jun 30, 2009, 6:31 PM
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holy balls that route is hard. i tried it like 2 years ago and it took me about an hour of cheating to get to the top
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limeydave
Jun 30, 2009, 6:39 PM
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Carnage wrote: holy balls that route is hard. i tried it like 2 years ago and it took me about an hour of cheating to get to the top
It could've been me writing that.
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rtwilli4
Jun 30, 2009, 7:04 PM
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limeydave wrote: Carnage wrote: holy balls that route is hard. i tried it like 2 years ago and it took me about an hour of cheating to get to the top It could've been me writing that.
Ha... yea... Not something I'd recommend to a 5.9 climber! Rico is a great place to climb though :)
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lodi5onu
Jun 30, 2009, 7:32 PM
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littlemissme14 wrote: I am heading to the New River Gorge for 4th of July Weekend and i have never been before. I have been climbing indoors for about 10 months and have climbed outdoors a few times at Stone Mountain, The Red and Pilot Mountain. I want to get on some good climbs in the 5.9 to 5.10 range that are sport. I have lead a few times and want to do more this weekend. Anyone have any good suggestions for me to try out. Thanks
Anything with permanent draws in the Colliseum
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markc
Jun 30, 2009, 7:37 PM
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lena_chita wrote: Stop at Waterstone Outdoors and get a guidebook. The common places people go to for the sport climbs in 5.9-5.10 range are: Summersville Lake, Sandstonia/Tattoo Wall, Kaymoor-Butchers Branch, and a small section of Endless Wall called the Kaymoor Slab.
I'd also tack on Bubba City as a good place for moderate sport.
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wordless_chorus
Jun 30, 2009, 7:45 PM
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Bubba city for sure. Ms. Fields Follies is like 5.8 or 5.9 and is 100 feet with a nice roof at 85 feet or so. a classic for sure. In the 5.10 range I would say The Decameron is one of the best routes at Sandstonia.
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littlemissme14
Jun 30, 2009, 8:04 PM
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ok cool... i just saw that there is 30 % change of isolated thunderstorms this weekend when i am going and wanted to know if it is worth the trip or at once point is it not worth the trip because of rain. Are there any climbs that don't get much rain?
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shadowsandwich
Jun 30, 2009, 8:08 PM
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Like others have suggested, I'm thinking Sandstonia at Bubba City probably would be a top area for a high density of moderates. It also has a high density of people, so be prepared for cluster f*cks.
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csproul
Jun 30, 2009, 8:11 PM
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30% chance of rain at the New is as good as you'll likely see!
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littlemissme14
Jun 30, 2009, 8:23 PM
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great.. i am really looking forward to going this weekend
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markc
Jun 30, 2009, 8:46 PM
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littlemissme14 wrote: great.. i am really looking forward to going this weekend
There are several guides for the New River Gorge area. Regardless of which you have, the Rick Thompson guide may be worth at least flipping through. It has an umbrella icon for routes that stay relatively dry in the rain.
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j_ung
Jul 1, 2009, 4:37 PM
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Haha! Totally Crappy was originally bolted to be a completely different (and somewhat harder) line. That's why you sometimes have to climb off the obvious route to clip bolts.
Try not to be too hard on the FA-ist. He also gave us gems like Satisfaction Guaranteed and Flight of the Gumbie.
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minibiter
Jul 1, 2009, 5:00 PM
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Hey I said she was awesome! And I plugged FOTG too. IMHO that might be the best 9 in the gorge.
Don't get out to Summersville much so I havent been on Satisfaction Guaranteed yet but I've heard it's pretty sweet so it's on my list. I think I'll be plugging gear this weekend, but I'll bring the draws in case it's not as crowded as I think it will be.
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j_ung
Jul 1, 2009, 5:19 PM
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Have fun! The weather looks like it'll be pretty good this weekend.
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ddclimbs
Jul 1, 2009, 5:56 PM
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If you plan to go to Bubba City, I recommend purchasing the Bubba City guide by Eric Horst. It has the best directions, etc.
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Carnage
Jul 1, 2009, 6:32 PM
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last i checked the approach stuff changed about a year ago
just ask roger for directions when you get there
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dreday3000
Jul 1, 2009, 7:22 PM
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markc wrote: littlemissme14 wrote: great.. i am really looking forward to going this weekend There are several guides for the New River Gorge area. Regardless of which you have, the Rick Thompson guide may be worth at least flipping through. It has an umbrella icon for routes that stay relatively dry in the rain.
The Thompson guidebook is officially the worst guide book ever. Thank gawd, a new - more reputable guidebook company is working on a new guide.
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markc
Jul 1, 2009, 7:47 PM
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dreday3000 wrote: markc wrote: littlemissme14 wrote: great.. i am really looking forward to going this weekend There are several guides for the New River Gorge area. Regardless of which you have, the Rick Thompson guide may be worth at least flipping through. It has an umbrella icon for routes that stay relatively dry in the rain. The Thompson guidebook is officially the worst guide book ever. Thank gawd, a new - more reputable guidebook company is working on a new guide.
There are reasons I said the OP should flip through a copy rather than purchase it. It's cumbersome, it's really out of date, and it's limited (not providing Summersville information). I bought my copy back when it was relatively new, and would go with another guide if I was buying today.
That said, it's not the worst guide I've ever used. If that's the case for you, you've been lucky with your selection of guides.
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dreday3000
Jul 1, 2009, 8:13 PM
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Fair enough. it is not THE WORST guidebook I have ever used. I've gone through many a photocopy rinky dink guidebook that was a far cry worse.
But the Thompson guide is expensive, bulky, pretty illogical, limited, and takes itself pretty darn seriously. So its a pretty bad bet.
For the record, I also bought the guide when there were not many other options. I would not do so again.
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