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keepitlow
Aug 15, 2009, 9:20 PM
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Is it OK to put the plywood over drywall. I was wondering if the bolts that go through the T nuts will get messed up if they hit the drywall under the ply.
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yak
Aug 15, 2009, 9:48 PM
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I'm guessing you're wanting to put this wall inside? I would be finding the studs behind the drywall and screwing wood to them, so make a frame that is on the outside of drywall and is attached to frame that is behind drywall...then ply gets screwed to outer frame, which gives you a gap between ply and drywall so bolts shouldn't reach drywall...
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scottek67
Aug 15, 2009, 10:31 PM
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spoon
Aug 15, 2009, 11:17 PM
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In reply to: or you could just use the proper length bolts
bolts of the proper length will often reach all the way through the plywood. using bolts that are too short in an effort to avoid this will increase the risk of stripping the threads on the t-nut.
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chopperjohn
Aug 15, 2009, 11:33 PM
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why not. My woody covers about a 10x8 section of ceiling directly screwed and lagged through the dry wall and into the studs . After the initial main screws I went nuts and screwed two hundred screws into that bitch. I also used O.S.B. and screw in holds and never pulled one yet. 97 bucks for the wood and 80 bucks for 120 holds from a stoner on ebay= a lifetime of splinters and enjoyment.
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milesenoell
Aug 16, 2009, 12:27 AM
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I'm going to guess that you are asking because you are trying to install a woody indoors in a rental. The quick answer is that you are unlikely to be able to do this project without affecting the walls, floor, and ceiling of the room you put it in. Be ready to spackle and repaint at a minimum, and replacing the drywall isn't necessarily as bad as you might guess. I've replaced sheetrock in rentals twice now, without asking for permission, and never had to give up any of my deposit. Just do a good job and don't trash the trim boards.
Also, if you attach the plywood to a 2x4 frame it holds the plywood off the wall plenty for the bolts to extend through. Just put t-nuts close to both sides of each 2x4 ('cause you can't put t-nuts over where the 2x4's are) so the holds don't feel like there are blanked out areas.
What I did that I like a lot is used two big beams ( 11 foot long unfinished hard-wood 2x6's) as rails, and put down small blocks of 2x4 at the corners of the plywood, between the ply and he rails, and tacked it together with big-ass lag screws. An extra 2x4 block and lag screw at the mid point of each long side (for a total of 6 lag screws and blocks to hold each full sheet of ply), and I have a frame that is stiff, adjustable angle, and has almost complete freedom to place holds anywhere. I put it in a carport with exposed roofing trusses,set the angle, and lash it to the trusses. No permanent installation required, and it can be moved to make way for parking vehicles or to a new location with similar ease.
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gmggg
Aug 16, 2009, 12:45 AM
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Good advise so far, If you end up framing the plywood go for 2x3's they are slightly cheaper and they take up less surface area on the woody.
If you were worried about physically being able to attach holds, and not the damage, don't. You won't even notice the extra force required.
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keepitlow
Aug 16, 2009, 1:42 PM
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Thanks for all the feedback
I'm putting it in my living room and can't come out from the drywall with anything other than one piece of 3/4 plywood for thickness.
Wife is not that hot about it (understatement) so trying to keep it low key somewhat. Planning on using oak faced ply with satin coating to keep it within acceptable compromises in the family.
Ceiling is high, so that is a plus.
My main concern milesenoell was what would happen to the bolt or T nut if I screw them into the drywall then remove them to change the route. Would the gypsum screw up the T nut from being used again?
I'm an older guy just getting into climbing, so am happy with a simple wall that goes straight up to climb on. Just trying to keep up some of my skills by staying active. But in my local no place close to climb.
Something about climbing that no other sport seems to replicate. All four limbs moving in concert and the feel is exhilarating.
(This post was edited by keepitlow on Aug 16, 2009, 1:52 PM)
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gmggg
Aug 16, 2009, 2:16 PM
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keepitlow wrote: Thanks for all the feedback I'm putting it in my living room and can't come out from the drywall with anything other than one piece of 3/4 plywood for thickness. Wife is not that hot about it (understatement) so trying to keep it low key somewhat. Planning on using oak faced ply with satin coating to keep it within acceptable compromises in the family. Ceiling is high, so that is a plus. My main concern milesenoell was what would happen to the bolt or T nut if I screw them into the drywall then remove them to change the route. Would the gypsum screw up the T nut from being used again? I'm an older guy just getting into climbing, so am happy with a simple wall that goes straight up to climb on. Just trying to keep up some of my skills by staying active. But in my local no place close to climb. Something about climbing that no other sport seems to replicate. All four limbs moving in concert and the feel is exhilarating.
The gypsum shouldn't affect the threading of new holds much if at all, if you're really worried about it, just make sure to blow out the nut before threading. More importantly, make sure that the Tnuts are installed properly. Don't hammer them in, instead bolt them on and let them get sucked in. A quick search should give you a few methods for this.
If you end up using oak with a satin finish make sure that you DON'T use climbing shoes on it. The rubber on climbing shoes is very soft and a satin finish wood wall will quickly turn into a poor imitation of abstract expressionism.
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marc801
Aug 16, 2009, 7:04 PM
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keepitlow wrote: Thanks for all the feedback I'm putting it in my living room...
I've climbed for over 30 years and built several training walls - basement, spare bed room, and garage x2 - never once did I even remotely consider putting it in the living room.
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marc801
Aug 16, 2009, 7:31 PM
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keepitlow wrote: I'm an older guy just getting into climbing, so am happy with a simple wall that goes straight up to climb on. Just trying to keep up some of my skills by staying active. But in my local no place close to climb.
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keepitlow
Aug 16, 2009, 10:15 PM
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Thanks for the advice gmggg
I was told to pound the nuts in, so didn't know about the other method.
(This post was edited by keepitlow on Aug 16, 2009, 10:16 PM)
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keepitlow
Aug 16, 2009, 10:20 PM
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marc801 wrote: keepitlow wrote: Thanks for all the feedback I'm putting it in my living room... This is a huge mistake, especially with a non-climbing spouse. There's nothing more aesthetic in a living room than climbing holds bolted onto a makeshift wall covered with scuff marks and chalk dust everywhere. Are you going to need to move furniture around every time you want to use it? Are you planning on padding the landing zone? Where will the padding live when you're not using the wall? Do you really intend to turn your living room into a gym? There is no such thing as a "low key" climbing wall. I've climbed for over 30 years and built several training walls - basement, spare bed room, and garage x2 - never once did I even remotely consider putting it in the living room.
I'm going to use a crash pad or two spread out. Furniture? Maybe just move one small dropfront desk on casters.
Yes, not the best spot but only other spot is foyer entrance with staircase near it. So living room is best. Non of your other spots would work for me.
(This post was edited by keepitlow on Aug 16, 2009, 10:29 PM)
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keepitlow
Aug 16, 2009, 10:25 PM
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roadstead wrote: keepitlow wrote: Wife is not that hot about it (understatement) so trying to keep it low key somewhat. If you piss off your non climber wife, all you'll be left with is your woody. 
Wife is too fat to climb, otherwise she would probably like it. I can't run my life her way. so we make compromises. Instead of making the whole room and vaulted ceilings a gym I'll just take a wall.
My health is just so-so too. At this point whatever I do has to be health and well being related as well as fun. So if L/R is only spot ...that is what it is. I'd make one on my brick wall outside but am worried about the bricks cracking from ice if I drill them.
(This post was edited by keepitlow on Aug 16, 2009, 10:26 PM)
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keepitlow
Aug 16, 2009, 10:28 PM
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marc801 wrote: keepitlow wrote: I'm an older guy just getting into climbing, so am happy with a simple wall that goes straight up to climb on. Just trying to keep up some of my skills by staying active. But in my local no place close to climb. You don't state where you live in your profile. There are climbing gyms in some of the unlikeliest, flattest, cliff-sparse areas of the country. Are you sure there isn't someplace to climb within a reasonable drive?
Yea they got some about an hour+ away. But my time is limited and need something very close.
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damage
Aug 16, 2009, 10:29 PM
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yak wrote: I'm guessing you're wanting to put this wall inside? I would be finding the studs behind the drywall and screwing wood to them, so make a frame that is on the outside of drywall and is attached to frame that is behind drywall...then ply gets screwed to outer frame, which gives you a gap between ply and drywall so bolts shouldn't reach drywall...
build a frame work out of 2x4s.
This way your climbing wall is actually slightly adjustable AND you won't start kicking and screaming when you are trying to find the studs. Also, a good framework can distribute the weight of the climbing wall more better.
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slartibartfast
Aug 17, 2009, 2:04 AM
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keepitlow wrote: Wife is not that hot...
Bummer
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milesenoell
Aug 17, 2009, 4:35 AM
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keepitlow wrote: Thanks for all the feedback Wife is not that hot about it (understatement) so trying to keep it low key somewhat.
To echo others, this is not a low key undertaking, and if this is going to be a thorn in your wife's side, seriously consider not doing it.
In reply to: Planning on using oak faced ply with satin coating to keep it within acceptable compromises in the family.
Again, echoing others, a climbing wall is going to quickly look smudgey with black from the shoe rubber, white (and dusty) from the chalk, and polka-dotted with holds that will not look so bright after a few runs. If you can get your wife stoked on watching you, this may all be do-able, but if not it could be a lot to put up with. Crash pads/old mattresses eat up space too.
In reply to: Ceiling is high, so that is a plus.
Excellent. The difference between an 8 foot and 10 foot wall, is significant.
In reply to: My main concern milesenoell was what would happen to the bolt or T nut if I screw them into the drywall then remove them to change the route. Would the gypsum screw up the T nut from being used again?
The grit from the gypsum is super fine and not likely to be a big deal (just blow out the hole) but, gypsum is very low pH and with corrode metal quickly. Maybe spritz your bolts with a little WD-40? Better to just mount the ply on a frame so it's not an issue.
As for the other location you mentioned, attached to a brick wall. I'd consider it. Outdoor walls are very do-able, and may get you what you want without having to ask as much of your wife.
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marc801
Aug 17, 2009, 4:59 PM
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milesenoell wrote: keepitlow wrote: Wife is not that hot about it (understatement) so trying to keep it low key somewhat. To echo others, this is not a low key undertaking, and if this is going to be a thorn in your wife's side, seriously consider not doing it. In reply to: Planning on using oak faced ply with satin coating to keep it within acceptable compromises in the family. Again, echoing others, a climbing wall is going to quickly look smudgey with black from the shoe rubber, white (and dusty) from the chalk, and polka-dotted with holds that will not look so bright after a few runs. If you can get your wife stoked on watching you, this may all be do-able, but if not it could be a lot to put up with. Crash pads/old mattresses eat up space too.
If you decide to build one on the outside of the house, one option instead of bolting holds directly into brick is to build a frame:
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keepitlow
Aug 17, 2009, 8:22 PM
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milesenoell wrote: keepitlow wrote: Thanks for all the feedback Excellent. The difference between an 8 foot and 10 foot wall, is significant. As for the other location you mentioned, attached to a brick wall. I'd consider it. Outdoor walls are very do-able, and may get you what you want without having to ask as much of your wife. Me ceilings are about 15 feet. What do you suggest for the brick? Drywall can be repaired easy inside. Once the bricks are drilled your screwed. Drilling mortar joints also opens up the possibility of moisture enervating the framing underneath as my house if brick faced over studs.
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keepitlow
Aug 17, 2009, 8:25 PM
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marc801 wrote: milesenoell wrote: keepitlow wrote: Wife is not that hot about it (understatement) so trying to keep it low key somewhat. To echo others, this is not a low key undertaking, and if this is going to be a thorn in your wife's side, seriously consider not doing it. In reply to: Planning on using oak faced ply with satin coating to keep it within acceptable compromises in the family. Again, echoing others, a climbing wall is going to quickly look smudgey with black from the shoe rubber, white (and dusty) from the chalk, and polka-dotted with holds that will not look so bright after a few runs. If you can get your wife stoked on watching you, this may all be do-able, but if not it could be a lot to put up with. Crash pads/old mattresses eat up space too. Here's what your living room wall might look like: [image]http://www.txuw.net/images/climbingwall.jpg[/image] If you decide to build one on the outside of the house, one option instead of bolting holds directly into brick is to build a frame: [image]http://www.archnetwork.eu/NATUREEXCHANGEBALKANASSISTBULGARIA2008_9B2C/image_6.png[/image]
That's a nice gym room. Yea the walls are ugly with the marks. But I guess it goes with the territory. Any shoes on the market that scuff up less?
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keepitlow
Aug 17, 2009, 8:28 PM
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slartibartfast wrote: keepitlow wrote: Wife is not that hot... Bummer
Again, it goes with the territory if you meaning is 'hot looks'. When you get to middle age not many women in the 50's and 60's are hot. Once in a while I run across one or two though.
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marc801
Aug 17, 2009, 8:40 PM
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keepitlow wrote: Any shoes on the market that scuff up less?
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marc801
Aug 17, 2009, 8:41 PM
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keepitlow wrote: When you get to middle age not many women in the 50's and 60's are hot. Once in a while I run across one or two though.
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