|
|
|
|
patto
Sep 1, 2009, 6:08 PM
Post #26 of 35
(1616 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Nov 15, 2005
Posts: 1453
|
Guys, guys guys. This aint that hard. You clearly must be doing something WRONG if you need less than 5 nuts per carabiner.
I don't drop my nuts
I carry about 28 nuts when I climb. Two sets of regular nuts (WC and DMM). A set of peenuts and a couple RPs.
I carry them up on only 2 carabiners. So thats about 14 nuts per carabiner.
If you are dropping nuts regularly then you are doing it wrong!
STEP 1. Check nuts are all in bottom bucket of carabiner and then nemove carabiner of nuts off harness.
(impossibile to drop nuts, they all should be in bucket of carabiner while gate is open)
STEP 2. Select nut required, hold it upright and give it a shake. Rest of nuts should drop to bottom of biner. Repeat until this occurs.
(impossible to drop nuts as gate remains shut)
STEP 3. Place nut. Return to step 2 if nut is innappropriate.
(impossible to drop nuts as gate remains shut)
STEP 4. Unclip carabiner from placed nut. (rotate carabiner beforehand if needed)
(impossibile to drop nuts, they all should be in bucket of carabiner while gate is open)
STEP 5. Return carabiner of nuts to harness.
*I use large keylock ovals. This makes carabiner behaviour alot more predictable and easy to shake the nuts into their bucket.
|
|
|
|
|
marc801
Sep 1, 2009, 6:17 PM
Post #27 of 35
(1608 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Aug 1, 2005
Posts: 2806
|
patto wrote: I carry the excessive quantity of them up on only 2 carabiners. So thats about 14 nuts per carabiner.
patto wrote: If you are dropping nuts regularly then you are doing it wrong!
patto wrote: STEP 1. Check nuts are all in bottom bucket of carabiner and then nemove carabiner of nuts off harness. (impossibile to drop nuts, they all should be in bucket of carabiner while gate is open) STEP 2. Select nut required, hold it upright and give it a shake. Rest of nuts should drop to bottom of biner. Repeat until this occurs. (impossible to drop nuts as gate remains shut)
But entirely possible to fumble the biner, dropping not just one nut, but half of your supply.
|
|
|
|
|
markc
Sep 1, 2009, 7:08 PM
Post #28 of 35
(1592 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jan 21, 2003
Posts: 2481
|
I agree that not dropping your nuts on a regular basis isn't that hard. This is the first I've really heard of someone dropping nuts in such a way, so I'm just theorizing as to the cause. An overly-full biner seems like a candidate, but who knows what the OP is doing?
I carry 10 nuts, a single set of Huevos (4-13). I would personally find keeping all of them on one biner annoying. I can eyeball a crack pretty well, and I don't want to flip through that many biners for each nut placement. You're experienced, and YMMV. It's not a matter of needing less than 5 nuts per biner, it's a matter of how I prefer to rack. Were I carrying 28 biners, I'd probably break them up into at least three biners.
|
|
|
|
|
patto
Sep 1, 2009, 11:58 PM
Post #29 of 35
(1550 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Nov 15, 2005
Posts: 1453
|
You don't know where I climb. Having a double set of wires and micros is considered the norm here. I hardly is an excessive amount. Furthermore most people carry them across two biners.
marc801 wrote: But entirely possible to fumble the biner, dropping not just one nut, but half of your supply.
But each to their own. My system works well for me. I dont drop nuts.
|
|
|
|
|
bill413
Sep 4, 2009, 12:44 AM
Post #30 of 35
(1507 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Oct 19, 2004
Posts: 5674
|
Sorry, but those suggesting lockers (twistlock or otherwise) are probably climbing much more slowly than they should.
I have a set of 9 WC nuts, all racked on a single biner. A season or two ago I switched from a notched gate to a notchless gate for racking them, and feel it was a great change.
I've read the advice on splitting them up in alternation. Sounds good, but I can't always judge a placement +- one size; and my rack is crowded with too many biners already.
I think the only place where I have dropped a nut was after replacing the biner on my rack with some of the wires going up...not sure exactly what happened, but lost one that way. Now I try & always make sure I tug them down after reracking.
As others have said, get the one you want away from all the rest, place it, remove it (keeping the other wires away), rerack, sling, etc. Or, isolate the one you want, remove it, place it, etc.
I sometimes use the placement itself to perform the isolation, other times I use my lips. The big thing is to pay attention to whether or not opening the biner will release just one or several of them.
|
|
|
|
|
Durin
Sep 4, 2009, 7:18 AM
Post #31 of 35
(1483 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Nov 18, 2007
Posts: 113
|
just looking at El Cap makes both of my nuts drop, every time. I've tried everything. It's just part of climbing.
|
|
|
|
|
Upperlimits
Sep 14, 2009, 5:24 PM
Post #32 of 35
(1428 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Aug 23, 2007
Posts: 42
|
patto wrote: Guys, guys guys. This aint that hard. You clearly must be doing something WRONG if you need less than 5 nuts per carabiner. I don't drop my nuts I carry about 28 nuts when I climb. Two sets of regular nuts (WC and DMM). A set of peenuts and a couple RPs. I carry them up on only 2 carabiners. So thats about 14 nuts per carabiner. If you are dropping nuts regularly then you are doing it wrong! STEP 1. Check nuts are all in bottom bucket of carabiner and then nemove carabiner of nuts off harness. (impossibile to drop nuts, they all should be in bucket of carabiner while gate is open) STEP 2. Select nut required, hold it upright and give it a shake. Rest of nuts should drop to bottom of biner. Repeat until this occurs. (impossible to drop nuts as gate remains shut) STEP 3. Place nut. Return to step 2 if nut is innappropriate. (impossible to drop nuts as gate remains shut) STEP 4. Unclip carabiner from placed nut. (rotate carabiner beforehand if needed) (impossibile to drop nuts, they all should be in bucket of carabiner while gate is open) STEP 5. Return carabiner of nuts to harness. *I use large keylock ovals. This makes carabiner behaviour alot more predictable and easy to shake the nuts into their bucket.
I do exactly this. Not dropped one yet. I've come close to dropping lots of stuff. It always concerns me to get fumble fingered up there.
|
|
|
|
|
bill413
Sep 14, 2009, 9:39 PM
Post #33 of 35
(1401 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Oct 19, 2004
Posts: 5674
|
The other weekend I was climbing, and had a reminder of how one can drop their nuts (only a reminder of my younger days, fortunately).
When you've sorted through the nuts on a biner, either on your rack/gear loop, or in your hand & clip it back into your rack, some of the nuts may not be hanging down all nice & neat. In fact, some may be riding high on the biner, pointing up in the air, just waiting to drop down & escape when next you open it. So, the prevention is to check that they are all at the bottom of the biner after reracking.
Oh, and this seems to be a little bit more of an issue to me with notched nose biners than key-locks. The notch may catch them on the way out...but it seems to hang them up more when trying to get that wrong sized one back in.
|
|
|
|
|
sungam
Sep 14, 2009, 9:59 PM
Post #34 of 35
(1394 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jun 24, 2004
Posts: 26804
|
As usual, awareness reduces user error. I've dropped nuts twice. Once as a n00b, and the other time my glove had gotten soaked and froze solid in funky shapes...
|
|
|
|
|
rgold
Sep 15, 2009, 12:53 PM
Post #35 of 35
(1343 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Dec 3, 2002
Posts: 1804
|
Patto's step-by-step instructions are the way most people who remove the entire nut biner do it, but of course there are other methods too. Whatever method you use, in the heat of battle, nuts can get trapped on the gate and sometimes wedge the gate open when you reclip the biner. The result is the mysterious dropping of a piece from your rack while you're climbing.
The chances of dropping increase when you have a lot of nuts on a biner. I agree that 5-6 seems optimal. Oval biners are better than D's, and I think the notch-no notch gate is a wash (I prefer no notch).
One thing that hasn't been mentioned is the plastic tubes some nuts have surrounding the loop clipped to the biner. If you need these for identifying the nut, fine, but they get in the way of smooth manipulation, first by taking up more room and second by "sticking" to the biner when you are flipping things around. I think they are best cut off.
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
