Forums: Climbing Partners: US - MidWest:
Devils Lake - Major Mass - Multi-pitch
RSS FeedRSS Feeds for US - MidWest

Premier Sponsor:

 


freerangequark


Sep 15, 2009, 1:13 PM
Post #1 of 6 (2138 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Jul 23, 2006
Posts: 107

Devils Lake - Major Mass - Multi-pitch
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Private Reply | Can't Post

A description for Major Mass I read includes the following?

"The formation contains a good range of climbs with good exposure and length (80-100 feet). The formation lends itself to multipitch climbing (Midwest style), allowing up to four pitches of climbing from the base of the Red Slab to the top of Jungle Gym Tower."


Has anyone here done this? The first pitch mentioned, "Red Slab" doesn't sound like much to get excited about. It seems like there would be a lot of scrambling between pitches. Is it more climbing than scrambling at least?

Is there a decent set of routes up the bluff to make it worthwhile?

-Glenn


shrug7


Sep 15, 2009, 2:26 PM
Post #2 of 6 (2136 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Oct 18, 2006
Posts: 866

Re: [freerangequark] Devils Lake - Major Mass - Multi-pitch [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Private Reply | Can't Post

Hey Glenn,

You can't really TR this thing. Multi-pitch midwest style is just for rope drag. There is more climbing then scrambling yes. The moves are fun though, even a section of hand jams.

I've done it in a single "pitch" using minimal gear and long runners.

Major Mass is one of my favorites areas of the lake. Good climbs, out of the way which means fewer people.

Check out Kenosis while you're there.:
http://www.flickr.com/...s/shrug7/2999585606/


freerangequark


Sep 15, 2009, 2:29 PM
Post #3 of 6 (2134 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Jul 23, 2006
Posts: 107

Re: [shrug7] Devils Lake - Major Mass - Multi-pitch [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Private Reply | Can't Post

Hi Mike,

No TR... I'm talkin' trad.

-Glenn


shrug7


Sep 15, 2009, 2:32 PM
Post #4 of 6 (2132 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Oct 18, 2006
Posts: 866

Re: [freerangequark] Devils Lake - Major Mass - Multi-pitch [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Private Reply | Can't Post

Ya, miss read your post Smile

It's lead-able in a single pitch.

I think I used a #2 C3, #7 stopper, #1 C4 and clip an old pin. maybe a one other piece.


freerangequark


Sep 15, 2009, 2:34 PM
Post #5 of 6 (2130 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Jul 23, 2006
Posts: 107

Re: [shrug7] Devils Lake - Major Mass - Multi-pitch [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Private Reply | Can't Post

okay, I was under the impression that the way the MM bluff was that you could lead up a route, bring up the second, and then scramble a little to another route higher up the bluff and so on...

-Glenn


shrug7


Sep 15, 2009, 2:37 PM
Post #6 of 6 (2129 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Oct 18, 2006
Posts: 866

Re: [freerangequark] Devils Lake - Major Mass - Multi-pitch [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Private Reply | Can't Post

There are some like that.
e.g. if you where to pitch out Jungle Gym, you'd only need a 20m rope.

Others like Kenosis which are tall and lacking big ledges.


Forums : Climbing Partners : US - MidWest

 


Search for (options)

Log In:

Username:
Password: Remember me:

Go Register
Go Lost Password?



Follow us on Twiter Become a Fan on Facebook