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climbingnoise
Oct 30, 2009, 12:52 AM
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howdy
sooo awhile back I started trying to climb statically whenever possible, thinking this would be a good way to train strength and tension. If its the kind of situation where I wont be able to finish a route or a problem unless I speed it up, I speed it up, but in general because I was having tendon issues in my wrist I stopped bouldering at my limit (4, 5) and just do a lot of circuits of v0-v2 sometimes v3 and try and do every move slowly and controlled. This has forced me to work on my footwork and I enjoy these easier problems a lot more this way.
What I'm wondering is if it would be worth my while to start training dynamic moves, deadpoints, stabs. Is it possible that I could be losing the ability to make dynamic moves more successfully by not making them as often?
I'm wondering if working the finger board with my feet under (like coming out from under a roof) would be a good idea. (i've only been climbing for like a year and a half so my tendons are still not campusing durability)
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johnwesely
Oct 30, 2009, 1:15 AM
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climbingnoise wrote: howdy sooo awhile back I started trying to climb statically whenever possible, thinking this would be a good way to train strength and tension. If its the kind of situation where I wont be able to finish a route or a problem unless I speed it up, I speed it up, but in general because I was having tendon issues in my wrist I stopped bouldering at my limit (4, 5) and just do a lot of circuits of v0-v2 sometimes v3 and try and do every move slowly and controlled. This has forced me to work on my footwork and I enjoy these easier problems a lot more this way. What I'm wondering is if it would be worth my while to start training dynamic moves, deadpoints, stabs. Is it possible that I could be losing the ability to make dynamic moves more successfully by not making them as often? I'm wondering if working the finger board with my feet under (like coming out from under a roof) would be a good idea. (i've only been climbing for like a year and a half so my tendons are still not campusing durability)
Why would not doing dynamic moves make you better at dynamic moves. That finger board idea is nonsensical. Do it if you want to hurt your wrist again. Also, depending on the rungs, campusing is easier on the tendons than a finger board.
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climbingnoise
Oct 30, 2009, 1:29 AM
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because it takes a lot of strength and balance to move slowly to the next hold. Because of how much more engaged I feel statically doing a problem, it seems like just dashing through a problem takes barely any effort, assuming its not at your limit, and so you are not building anything?
by the finger board thing I meant, my feet were On a ledge, so that its not full intensity.
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johnwesely
Oct 30, 2009, 1:40 AM
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climbingnoise wrote: because it takes a lot of strength and balance to move slowly to the next hold. Because of how much more engaged I feel statically doing a problem, it seems like just dashing through a problem takes barely any effort, assuming its not at your limit, and so you are not building anything? by the finger board thing I meant, my feet were On a ledge, so that its not full intensity.
I thought you meant putting your feet on a ledge and swinging out. If it takes more strength to do a move statically, then you should probably be doing it dynamically. The point of climbing is not to make the moves harder.
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climbingnoise
Oct 30, 2009, 1:46 AM
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I understand, if I'm trying to send I would obviously go the path of least resistance.
When I'm doing a v2, however, why not get something more out of it?
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johnwesely
Oct 30, 2009, 1:53 AM
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climbingnoise wrote: I understand, if I'm trying to send I would obviously go the path of least resistance. When I'm doing a v2, however, why not get something more out of it?
Because you are not learning how to climb. You are learning how to not climb. If you want to get more out of a v2, climb the v2 in the most efficient, easiest, way possible. Climb it over and over and over again and figure out all of the subtleties in the moves. You can't learn the skills necessary for the harder problems on the harder problems. You need to use the easier problems to build your base and technique.
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seatbeltpants
Oct 30, 2009, 1:56 AM
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climbingnoise wrote: When I'm doing a v2, however, why not get something more out of it?
i don't quite follow you - you're doing v2s so that you rest the tendons which were getting hurt climbing v5s. fair enough. but it seems that instead of doing the v2s as v2s (which would rest your tendons) you're looking for ways to make them harder (more like, say, v5s - which won't rest your tendons).
am i missing something?
steve
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asiaclimber
Oct 30, 2009, 1:57 AM
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climbingnoise wrote: I understand, if I'm trying to send I would obviously go the path of least resistance. When I'm doing a v2, however, why not get something more out of it?
if you want more out of it do something harder then V2.
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climbingnoise
Oct 30, 2009, 2:14 AM
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:/
The point, as i saw it was to not climb as high impact, but still gain lockoff strength and core strength, and force good footwork. If I spent all day on 4s my wrists would start hurting again.
What I typically do, when not on routes, is just climb 0s through 2s and some 3s back to back with as little rest as possible. By climbing in the most strenuous way possible without imposing too much tendon strain, i.e. more body weight on worse holds in more awkward positions, I figured I would have more endurance on routes composed of moves of these difficulties. (I'm leading between 11a and 11c right now.)
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johnwesely
Oct 30, 2009, 2:52 AM
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climbingnoise wrote: :/ The point, as i saw it was to not climb as high impact, but still gain lockoff strength and core strength, and force good footwork. If I spent all day on 4s my wrists would start hurting again. What I typically do, when not on routes, is just climb 0s through 2s and some 3s back to back with as little rest as possible. By climbing in the most strenuous way possible without imposing too much tendon strain, i.e. more body weight on worse holds in more awkward positions, I figured I would have more endurance on routes composed of moves of these difficulties. (I'm leading between 11a and 11c right now.)
If you learned to climb the moves the right way, you would also have more endurance.
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dudemanbu
Oct 30, 2009, 4:39 AM
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Find an overhanging 5.7 or 5.8 jughaul at your gym, or a v0 in the bouldering section. You can typically campus these without too much risk of injury, and it will help with your ability to make dynamic moves and improve your strength. If you can't find a specific route, just finding jugs near eachother will work.
If you can finish a route, try going back down, then back up. I used to be like you, climbing super static, and this helped me a lot to trust myself for longer moves, deadpoints, and even dynos.
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sp00ki
Nov 19, 2009, 10:09 PM
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There's some merit to what you're doing, but i don't think it's what you're looking for.
I agree with johnwesely in that the best way to climb a route or problem is to find and practice the best way.
climbing statically or intentionally slowly isn't going to help you climb the route better per se, but what it will do is beneficial-- that is, help you develop specific muscle and strength/control in your core (which will help do things like stop swings during awkward sequences, move to "bad" holds when feet aren't on, or correct mistakes on unfamiliar routes).
It's also a fantastic way to warm up, as the impact kept to a minimum.
That said, it's not going to help your dynamic technique or your efficiency-- it's essentially a climbing specific strength building workout that you're describing.
Important, but probably not what you're hoping.
(This post was edited by sp00ki on Nov 20, 2009, 4:15 PM)
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