|
sp00ki
Nov 18, 2009, 10:29 PM
Post #1 of 16
(9604 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jul 2, 2009
Posts: 552
|
I'm putting something up in my bedroom this weekend so my gf and i can do pullup reps and hangs before bed or whenever.
Without going into the construction details, i'm looking to buy two each of:
- sloper
- pinch
Does anyone know of a good screw in sloper holds? Pinch holds?
nothing too challenging, just looking to build up a bit of hand strength while doing before bed stuff.
I'm looking to use screw vs bolt on, as this keeps things simpler.
|
|
|
|
|
sp00ki
Nov 18, 2009, 10:31 PM
Post #2 of 16
(9596 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jul 2, 2009
Posts: 552
|
something that satisfies both of these would actually be awesome, now that i think about it.
|
|
|
|
|
rockforlife
Nov 18, 2009, 10:32 PM
Post #3 of 16
(9596 views)
Shortcut
Registered: May 14, 2002
Posts: 563
|
sp00ki wrote: I'm putting something up in my bedroom this weekend so my gf and i can do pullup reps and hangs before bed or whenever. Without going into the construction details, i'm looking to buy two each of: - sloper - pinch Does anyone know of a good screw in sloper holds? Pinch holds? nothing too challenging, just looking to build up a bit of hand strength while doing before bed stuff. I'm looking to use screw vs bolt on, as this keeps things simpler.
http://climbingholdreview.blogspot.com/...w-stuff-october.html
Here is a good place to start looking.
|
|
|
|
|
sp00ki
Nov 18, 2009, 10:42 PM
Post #4 of 16
(9586 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jul 2, 2009
Posts: 552
|
Looked through their screw-on holds section, only four results, and three didn't apply.
i'll look into the lines mentioned in their revolutions screw on line, though it doesn't appear to be quite what i was looking for.
ed: yeah, definitely not. their screw ons are too small, and not slopers or pinches.
(This post was edited by sp00ki on Nov 18, 2009, 10:45 PM)
|
|
|
|
|
johnwesely
Nov 18, 2009, 11:05 PM
Post #5 of 16
(9565 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jun 13, 2006
Posts: 5360
|
Nothing is stopping you from drilling into bolt on holds.
|
|
|
|
|
CrazyPetie
Nov 18, 2009, 11:19 PM
Post #6 of 16
(9557 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Mar 31, 2008
Posts: 407
|
soill has a new hangboard that has two big slopers and two pinches. This would be much more effective then buying individual holds to do pull ups on.
|
|
|
|
|
sp00ki
Nov 19, 2009, 12:57 AM
Post #7 of 16
(9534 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jul 2, 2009
Posts: 552
|
CrazyPetie wrote: soill has a new hangboard that has two big slopers and two pinches. This would be much more effective then buying individual holds to do pull ups on.
Good call. this is perfect.
|
|
|
|
|
Couloirman
Nov 19, 2009, 2:08 AM
Post #8 of 16
(9499 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jan 13, 2008
Posts: 109
|
nice, those SoIll boards look tight! I almost wish I hadn't just mounted the metolius simulator 3d and picked up a SlopeyMon instead. Who has much experience with soill vs the simulator? Maybe i have another doorframe for a second hangboard in my tiny cramped apartment...
(This post was edited by Couloirman on Nov 19, 2009, 2:12 AM)
|
|
|
|
|
Couloirman
Nov 24, 2009, 1:15 AM
Post #10 of 16
(9339 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jan 13, 2008
Posts: 109
|
CrazyPetie wrote: soill has a new hangboard that has two big slopers and two pinches. This would be much more effective then buying individual holds to do pull ups on.
Has anyone actually seen one/been on one of those Iron Palm crypto boards that I think you're referring to? Im debating between slopeymon and the Iron Cross but have nowhere to go to try them out. I have been advised by soill that the iron palm kicks ass but that just might be because theyre new and they have A TON laying around so I was looking for a more subjective opinion.
|
|
|
|
|
villageidiot
Nov 24, 2009, 1:30 AM
Post #11 of 16
(9322 views)
Shortcut
Registered: May 12, 2005
Posts: 104
|
I seem to remember reading that one of the problems of training slopers and pinches is that the strength gains tend to be rather specific to the hold geometry. Meaning that if you by a set of slopers and pinches you end up really only training for those particular holds, and not other slopers or pinches. I thought that was why campus boards and fingerboards tend to focus on crimp type holds. However, the most basic system walls I remember seeing may have only one each, so I may be talking out my a$$.
|
|
|
|
|
Couloirman
Nov 24, 2009, 9:32 PM
Post #12 of 16
(9220 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jan 13, 2008
Posts: 109
|
villageidiot wrote: I seem to remember reading that one of the problems of training slopers and pinches is that the strength gains tend to be rather specific to the hold geometry. Meaning that if you by a set of slopers and pinches you end up really only training for those particular holds, and not other slopers or pinches. I thought that was why campus boards and fingerboards tend to focus on crimp type holds. However, the most basic system walls I remember seeing may have only one each, so I may be talking out my a$$.
I dont think thats the case. It would also seem pretty pointless to make a sloper board ( http://www.soillholds.com/...duct_detail&p=73 ) if that were the case.
|
|
|
|
|
sidepull
Nov 24, 2009, 10:03 PM
Post #13 of 16
(9204 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Sep 11, 2001
Posts: 2335
|
Couloirman wrote: villageidiot wrote: I seem to remember reading that one of the problems of training slopers and pinches is that the strength gains tend to be rather specific to the hold geometry. Meaning that if you by a set of slopers and pinches you end up really only training for those particular holds, and not other slopers or pinches. I thought that was why campus boards and fingerboards tend to focus on crimp type holds. However, the most basic system walls I remember seeing may have only one each, so I may be talking out my a$$. I dont think thats the case. It would also seem pretty pointless to make a sloper board ( http://www.soillholds.com/...duct_detail&p=73 ) if that were the case.
I think the village idiot is right, strength is pretty grip-position specific. Training slopers will not make you strong with crimps or two-finger pockets. Please read the Self Coached Climber or Rockprodigy's training article on this site for opinions more educated than my own (you might also try reading Neil Gresham's training articles on planetfear.com or even Eric Horst's on TrainingForClimbing.com - they would also agree that strength is specific not transferable).
If you're still looking for screw on slopers and pinches, the best slopers you can get are below (plus you'll get them at a superior price):
http://www.synrockholds.com/screworbolt.html
|
|
|
|
|
shimanilami
Nov 24, 2009, 10:12 PM
Post #14 of 16
(9194 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jul 24, 2006
Posts: 2043
|
In Progression, Paxti was training with these balls, appeared to be ~6" in diameter, that hung down on chains. I was thinking that those must be sweet for pinch and sloper training, but I've never seen anything like them. Anyone know who makes them? Any suggestions on how to construct something like that?
|
|
|
|
|
Couloirman
Nov 24, 2009, 10:14 PM
Post #15 of 16
(9194 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jan 13, 2008
Posts: 109
|
sidepull wrote: I think the village idiot is right, strength is pretty grip-position specific. Training slopers will not make you strong with crimps or two-finger pockets. Please read the Self Coached Climber or Rockprodigy's training article on this site for opinions more educated than my own (you might also try reading Neil Gresham's training articles on planetfear.com or even Eric Horst's on TrainingForClimbing.com - they would also agree that strength is specific not transferable). If you're still looking for screw on slopers and pinches, the best slopers you can get are below (plus you'll get them at a superior price): http://www.synrockholds.com/screworbolt.html
the metolius training booklet that came with my simulator specifically said that training open handed grips(like slopers) will make you stornger for crimps, but not vice versa. Not that their the gods of excercising or anything, but Id like to believe them.
|
|
|
|
|
sidepull
Nov 25, 2009, 2:28 PM
Post #16 of 16
(9142 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Sep 11, 2001
Posts: 2335
|
Couloirman wrote: sidepull wrote: I think the village idiot is right, strength is pretty grip-position specific. Training slopers will not make you strong with crimps or two-finger pockets. Please read the Self Coached Climber or Rockprodigy's training article on this site for opinions more educated than my own (you might also try reading Neil Gresham's training articles on planetfear.com or even Eric Horst's on TrainingForClimbing.com - they would also agree that strength is specific not transferable). If you're still looking for screw on slopers and pinches, the best slopers you can get are below (plus you'll get them at a superior price): http://www.synrockholds.com/screworbolt.htmlthe metolius training booklet that came with my simulator specifically said that training open handed grips(like slopers) will make you stornger for crimps, but not vice versa. Not that their the gods of excercising or anything, but Id like to believe them.
If you want to blindly follow metolius that's fine. I've never seen where they have anyone with any "training" experience on their staff. I've listed a number of references that have much more credibility in this arena. I urge you to spend some time and look things up, before just doing what metolius says.
You can start here:
http://www.rockclimbing.com/...ockprodigy__258.html
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
, one on each side 
