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antigrav
Nov 22, 2009, 9:26 PM
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Well, the subject says it all...
I find that what makes me fall off the campusboard is not a failing grip as such, it is more that I start swinging (back and forth, not sideways) which eventually causes me to simply swing off the holds.
Any suggestions?
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jh_angel
Nov 22, 2009, 9:36 PM
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Work on your core, as well as not moving your legs when you campus. A back and forth swing is usually the result of kipping into each move, instead of pulling with your arms, which is the point of the campus board.
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johnwesely
Nov 22, 2009, 9:40 PM
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Sounds like you are doing it wrong.
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CrazyPetie
Nov 22, 2009, 10:04 PM
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When i first started using my campus board my core was sore for like a week. You need to use muscles from the waist up to keep you from swinging, especially when its more then 10 degrees overhanging.
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taydude
Nov 22, 2009, 10:43 PM
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antigrav wrote: Well, the subject says it all... I find that what makes me fall off the campusboard is not a failing grip as such, it is more that I start swinging (back and forth, not sideways) which eventually causes me to simply swing off the holds. Any suggestions?
Get stronger princess!
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escalabrasil
Nov 22, 2009, 11:28 PM
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Stop campusing
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joeforte
Nov 22, 2009, 11:57 PM
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escalabrasil wrote: Stop campusing
Stop campusing and start working your core. Hanging leg raises, front levers, etc... can all be done on that campus board. Once you get a strong core, then you can go back to campusing. Until then, you're just gonna hurt yourself.
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fist
Nov 23, 2009, 1:25 AM
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escalabrasil wrote: Stop campusing
This. If you swing while campusing then you aren't ready for campus training.
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ClimbClimb
Nov 23, 2009, 4:42 AM
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FWIW, I sometimes have to stop myself when I'm swinging on arms only and just conssciously stop it. Same effect as doing pullups or anything else, even if you're strong enough, it can take some focus when you get distracted by thinking about just your arms.
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Myxomatosis
Nov 23, 2009, 5:49 AM
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taydude wrote: antigrav wrote: Well, the subject says it all... I find that what makes me fall off the campusboard is not a failing grip as such, it is more that I start swinging (back and forth, not sideways) which eventually causes me to simply swing off the holds. Any suggestions? Get stronger princess!
That was my thoughts as well 
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campustrampus
Nov 23, 2009, 6:12 AM
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I had this same problem my first few months of climbing, then I realized that I had legs and feet.
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mandryd
Nov 25, 2009, 4:45 AM
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if you're swinging wildly, try and figure out why you're swinging.
are you initiating the campus using your lower body to create momentum? if that's the case then you need to find a way to channel that power from the legs in a more controlled fashion.
are you able to campus more staticly? that's kind of an oxymoron i know. just watch where the power is coming from and you'll have your answer.
using your legs to campus kinda defeats the purpose of it too. work on control.
btw don't listen to the naysayers on campusing. just don't go crazy doing 1-5 drop offs with both hands on 1/2" rungs. campusing will improve your dynos dramatically
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antigrav
Nov 25, 2009, 10:05 PM
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mandryd wrote: if you're swinging wildly, try and figure out why you're swinging. are you initiating the campus using your lower body to create momentum? if that's the case then you need to find a way to channel that power from the legs in a more controlled fashion. are you able to campus more staticly? that's kind of an oxymoron i know. just watch where the power is coming from and you'll have your answer. using your legs to campus kinda defeats the purpose of it too. work on control. btw don't listen to the naysayers on campusing. just don't go crazy doing 1-5 drop offs with both hands on 1/2" rungs. campusing will improve your dynos dramatically
Thanks. You're right. It seems that I am (to some extent) using lower body movement to create momentum.
I can try to do it more controlled, counteract this swinging so to speak, but one side-effect of this is that each move on the board takes more time (plus I need time between the moves to stop swinging), and the time I am able to hold on to rungs becomes a bottleneck, i.e., I fall off before hard moves forces me to drop, but instead because my fingers can't take any more holding on to the rungs. (If you see the difference...)
This should make my fingers stronger, then, perhaps...
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joeforte
Nov 25, 2009, 10:11 PM
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Falling off because your fingers can't hold on any longer is called training.
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overlord
Nov 30, 2009, 9:34 AM
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antigrav wrote: mandryd wrote: if you're swinging wildly, try and figure out why you're swinging. are you initiating the campus using your lower body to create momentum? if that's the case then you need to find a way to channel that power from the legs in a more controlled fashion. are you able to campus more staticly? that's kind of an oxymoron i know. just watch where the power is coming from and you'll have your answer. using your legs to campus kinda defeats the purpose of it too. work on control. btw don't listen to the naysayers on campusing. just don't go crazy doing 1-5 drop offs with both hands on 1/2" rungs. campusing will improve your dynos dramatically Thanks. You're right. It seems that I am (to some extent) using lower body movement to create momentum. I can try to do it more controlled, counteract this swinging so to speak, but one side-effect of this is that each move on the board takes more time (plus I need time between the moves to stop swinging), and the time I am able to hold on to rungs becomes a bottleneck, i.e., I fall off before hard moves forces me to drop, but instead because my fingers can't take any more holding on to the rungs. (If you see the difference...) This should make my fingers stronger, then, perhaps...
seems to me you're not quite strong enough to be campusing with both hands quite yet. instead try doing some campusing with alternate hands (going for the next rung with only one hand); this will build your strenght. or maybe decide to put off campusing for a while and work on your strenght in some other manner.
also work on your core muscles. strong core not only makes climbing easier (especially on overhangs), it can also save your life 
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rainman0915
Dec 1, 2009, 4:50 AM
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if you are swinging it is because u are using your legs to generate the upward movement that your arms cant, this is really easy to fix. stop going so fast! Slow controlled movements even if it means that you cant go as high. also doing some core training wouldn't hurt
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shear
Dec 1, 2009, 4:56 PM
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Stop doing it. Sounds like you don't have the core yet to campus. All of that wild swinging isn't good at all for your fingers. You're already putting a great deal of stress on your tendons just campusing, but campusing wrong? That's a recipe for injury. Go boulder for a few more months, get more technique and control, then come back.
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petsfed
Dec 1, 2009, 6:08 PM
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As you said, your two problems are insufficient finger strength, and insufficient core strength.
If you must campus, campus on jugs at the gym, although this won't do as much for you.
Seriously, stop campusing until you've got the finger and core strength to do it correctly.
The rule of thumb is that you shouldn't be campusing unless your upper body strength is the limiting issue in your climbing, on account of the much higher chance of injury. And it sounds like your upper body strength is not limiting you as much as other issues.
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kriso9tails
Dec 1, 2009, 10:25 PM
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I'll add one thing to what's been said already:
Watching people climb, it seems that a lot of people try to react to their swing after it's already happening, which is generally isn't all that effective. Having a certain level of core strength is important, but if you don't learn to control it, it's almost a total waste.
Be precise with your movements. Move exactly as far as you need to in order to hit the hold: no more and no less. Part of this means controlling the direction your body moves in by applying the right amount of power and by timing the movement correctly. Let go at the right moment, catch the next hold at the right moment, etc.
Have the right amount of tension in the right body parts at the right time and learn to control it. When I say 'control it', I mean easing in and out of it (as needed) fluidly as opposed to stiff, jolting movements.
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bothomsen
Dec 2, 2009, 12:31 AM
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use your arms and back to pull you up, not your body momentum! This is essential and primary goal to aim at. hold your body(legs and core) stable and tighten up.
and when grapping, pull on the bars a little. this is to put pressure on the bars so your fingers dont slide off.
just like when you dyno to a slopper.
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