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craney
Feb 1, 2010, 5:20 AM
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i dont believe there has been an ascent on the 45 degree SE facing arete. if not, the name and grade should be taken off.
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moose_droppings
Feb 1, 2010, 5:47 AM
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craney wrote: i dont believe there has been an ascent on the 45 degree SE facing arete. if not, the name and grade should be taken off.
45 degree and no ascent??
If it has, they probably named it "A Bit of a Steep Sidewalk".
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craney
Feb 1, 2010, 6:15 AM
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well who has th FA?
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SD_Climber10
Feb 4, 2010, 12:58 AM
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Everyone as far as i can tell have all done diff. variations on the back. The picture is like a foot or two left of where i started i started on the back right below the overhang and come up and went up the crimpers in the back.
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craney
Feb 4, 2010, 1:16 AM
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ok, so there is not an FA on the whole arete?? From the bottom left to the apex and up?
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SD_Climber10
Feb 5, 2010, 3:00 PM
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nope the front has many different names to it. If you are confident you know the actual name it can easily be changed i'm going off of some people attempting it that told me the name they heard. It hasn't been climbed yet if your talking about the SE overhang in the front of the boulder?
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dlintz
Feb 5, 2010, 3:40 PM
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As far as I know no one has done the obvious hard line on the SE face/arete. It is listed in this site's database as "8 Legged Freak" V7. Personally I think it should just be removed until it has a FA.
The backside of the boulder has plenty of variations which make naming specific problems kinda silly IMO.
d.
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dolphja
Feb 5, 2010, 4:22 PM
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that SE arete sure is a beast! i got about 1/2 way up during a few hour cession but couldn't finish the problem. after a while trying the SDS, it became obvious that this problem wasn't going to see a send that way. after stand starting for a while and blowing these crazy moves, i realized that more than 1 crash pad and SEVERAL spotters will be required for a safe send. the problem feels like a V7. it's beyond my ability though 
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craney
Feb 8, 2010, 6:11 AM
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yeah, the SE face from the sit start to the apex is gnarly. but yeah i'd say the sit start to the edge is around V3-4 (what do you think doug?). but the move up to a crossover undercling on the second level arete is incredibly hard. we need to get a group together and send it THIS spring. we need to bring this bastard down!!! lol
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craney
Feb 12, 2010, 3:42 AM
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ok, so the "8 legged freak" isn't the sit start on the SE overhang all the way to the apex. it's a variation that doesn't follow the arete. i'm glad we straightened that out. cuz i was going to say that there are only like 2 crimps all the way to the point i'm at. and from where I'm at, there aren't any crimps to the that apex. so the obvious SE facing overhanging arete is still unclimbed.
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dolphja
Feb 14, 2010, 10:46 AM
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dlintz wrote: dolphja wrote: that SE arete sure is a beast! i got about 1/2 way up during a few hour cession but couldn't finish the problem. after a while trying the SDS, it became obvious that this problem wasn't going to see a send that way. after stand starting for a while and blowing these crazy moves, i realized that more than 1 crash pad and SEVERAL spotters will be required for a safe send. the problem feels like a V7. it's beyond my ability though Are you talking about a sit-start from the bottom of the arete (lower left side of the overhanging face)? For me that's the easy part. I find it gets truly nasty leaving the arete for the face holds about 10 feet up the arete. Doubt I'll ever put it all together. 
yea the lower left arete. the sds i think takes too much juice out of a proper send so i tried the stand start for a little while. i totally concur about the holds about 10 feet up! it gets pretty hard and nasty. i'd like to go back there this spring and project it for a little while. and still no record of anyone ever sending this problem?
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angry
Feb 14, 2010, 12:54 PM
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Me and my boys from Boulder are going there with Peter Mortimer this spring. It's going down.
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johnwesely
Feb 14, 2010, 2:40 PM
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angry wrote: Me and my boys from Boulder are going there with Peter Mortimer this spring. It's going down.
Can I brush the holds for you or hold your chalk pot?
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angry
Feb 14, 2010, 2:48 PM
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johnwesely wrote: angry wrote: Me and my boys from Boulder are going there with Peter Mortimer this spring. It's going down. Can I brush the holds for you or hold your chalk pot?
We've got enough dudes. Do you have any girls you can bring to the sesh?
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johnwesely
Feb 14, 2010, 3:18 PM
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angry wrote: johnwesely wrote: angry wrote: Me and my boys from Boulder are going there with Peter Mortimer this spring. It's going down. Can I brush the holds for you or hold your chalk pot? We've got enough dudes. Do you have any girls you can bring to the sesh?
If I do, is it going to be like last time when I showed up with four girls and they got to hang out, but I had to leave. I understand that you guys are rock gods, but that wasn't cool.
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dlintz
Feb 14, 2010, 3:52 PM
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angry wrote: Me and my boys from Boulder are going there with Peter Mortimer this spring. It's going down.
It's about time you guys got the hint.
d.
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craney
Feb 14, 2010, 10:04 PM
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lol, sorry, it'll be done by then. 
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