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jonzoclimber
Dec 11, 2002, 5:28 PM
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I'm 17 and just wondering what to work on, At this point i'm doing around 200-250 pull ups a day (20 at a time) and finger curling around 150% of body weight. I'm not really sure what other muscles we should use... bicepts at all or pecks??? or just back and finger
Just say muscles and a good way to train if u know one, thx guys
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getvertical
Dec 11, 2002, 5:37 PM
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Well, first off, you dont want to over train. Doing that many pull ups every day will eventually catch up with you. Then next thing you want to consider is muscular balance. If you're working your back muscles hard, you need to work on your chest equally as hard. If you don't you'll wind up injured. Just focus on push-ups, pull-ups, sit-ups, and arm hangs with your elbows slightly flexed. If you have any more questions feel free to contanct me.....getvertical_2000@yahoo.com
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cloudbreak
Dec 11, 2002, 5:38 PM
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If you would put as much effort into just climbing/bouldering as your putting into pull-ups and what not, you shouldn't have to worry about a thing.
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thomasribiere
Dec 11, 2002, 6:51 PM
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cardiac muscle is important. Forearms are too, as tendon elasticity. Elasticity is as important as strength.
Drink water and stretch!
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jonzoclimber
Dec 11, 2002, 6:58 PM
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so i should do benching also??? wont pecks and tricepts just weigh me down? i cant figure out any motion for climbing that involves those muscles
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rrrADAM
Dec 11, 2002, 6:59 PM
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Manteling is pushing muscles.
As far as lifting... I don't do it, as bulk equals weight.
For strength boulder.
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mwbtle
Dec 11, 2002, 7:01 PM
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well...technically you use all your muscles when you do most things. Granted you aren't using your pecs on the holds, but when you move your arms, you use them. same with triceps (they work in opposition to biceps). So whatever muscle you can think of (within reason of course...) you probably use it for climbing.
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patterri
Dec 11, 2002, 7:21 PM
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I do 100 sit-ups, 50 push-ups, 100 body squats, 30 pull-ups and I jog a mile each day. On the weekends I take a rest. I read something saying this is going to make you the strongest pound for pound so I would suggest this. I also try to climb at least twice a week. I like this workout because it tones you up and makes you a lot stronger without gaining weight( I actually lost weight) If you wanted more info go to http://www.teenbodybuilding.com/steh7.htm
[ This Message was edited by: patterri on 2002-12-11 11:22 ]
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talonsofsteel
Dec 11, 2002, 7:35 PM
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it doesn't matter how strong you are, it's technique. it's good to work out to keep your muscles toned but becoming a muscle head won't make you a better climber.
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jonzoclimber
Dec 11, 2002, 7:45 PM
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body squat is where u stand up then bend your legs to a 90 degree angle
its for legs basically...
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patterri
Dec 11, 2002, 7:48 PM
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A body squat is a squat without weights. You just keep your feet planted and "squat" down. I do agree that technique is more important than being strong but I have noticed a lot of improvement in my climbing because I weigh less. I also enjoy being a healthier person.
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jonzoclimber
Dec 11, 2002, 7:55 PM
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utter bs that strength doesnt matter.... with muscle comes endurance for one thats good for climbing obviously
also with more muscle u can counter off any small amounts of access weight u might have somewhere else.
More finger strength means u can do smaller holds thats never bad, more shoulders/backs means u can use your arms to get u up things when your legs dont work.
Tech. is important but hows it gonna help u if u cant hold onto the holds?
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mwbtle
Dec 11, 2002, 8:11 PM
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...hmm...adamant are we? I know personally, I can't do a pullup, and I climb. It depends on your style. If you use your arms the whole way up, then you need all those muscles, if you use mostly your legs, you need less muscles. And I use tiny holds, but don't have great finger strength, just very small fingers.
Your way isn't wrong, my way isn't wrong, just involve different things.
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bluesky
Dec 11, 2002, 9:05 PM
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Jon
fingers - bouldering / climbing, fingerboard, finger extensions* and small rung campusing (careful!)
arms and shoulders - bouldering, lockoffs (seems to transfer better to my climbing than pullups), campusing for distance (careful^2), weighted pullups, negative pullups (helping me get one arms), weights (curls, reverse curls*, reverse wrist curls*, wrist curls, dips and tricep presses, shoulder presses, rotator cuff extension both ways* and many others)
back - bouldering, weights (lats and rows)
chest* - pushups and presses
legs - don't forget the calves
abs - steep climbing, lever training, and everything else, don't forget the obliques.
* = muscular balance = injury prevention exercises. I started climbing at 20 and eventually got shoulder tendonitis from too much pulling and not enough pushing and rotator cuff exercise. Start now, don't get hurt later.
also...
1) Finger curls and finger squeezy forearm training devices don't transfer well to climbing since it's motion / dynamic and climbing involves sticking and holding the hand in a static position.
2) Weights work. If you tailor your workouts to you body type you won't necessarily gain weight. Read and train smart.
3) Learn to listen to your body during training and give yourself rest. Flexibility, fluids, mental training and diet go a long way also.
Jesse
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wyomingclimber
Dec 11, 2002, 9:09 PM
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"Tech. is important but hows it gonna help u if u cant hold onto the holds?"
I can't remember who first said that, but they really did the climbing community a disservice.
Whenever someone fails on a route, it's because they can't hold the hold and they blame it on a lack of 'strength' when it almost never is. If they could do the move better, they wouldn't need the strength. Do you think that just because a power lifter can squat a thousand pounds that they'll be a fantastic skier the first time they strap on a pair of boards?
I'm coming back to climbing after a 3 year layoff and just started working a little power (something that was never and will never be my thing.) As part of my training, I had a friend set a fairly burly project for me in the gym--to give me something to work toward. Despite the fact that he is a much more powerful guy than me, I'm quite a bit closer to doing it. Why? Because I've figured out how to make most of the moves easier.
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lox
Dec 11, 2002, 9:38 PM
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Male climbing perspective sucks.
Climb with chicks and lay off the pullups.
250 a day will make you climb less hard...
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jonzoclimber
Dec 11, 2002, 10:58 PM
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all very typical answers from people who cant do a pull up...We all know that u need upper body strength for many moves, i agree technique is important, but u do need to be able to hold on. Saying that u cant do a pull up just proves that you obviously couldnt do a 5.9... anything with a slant requires back strength
And last time i checked it was TRAINING so this isnt climbing, no kidding climbing is the best way to get better at climbing...But when its winter and u cant what do u do? u train, that means other stuff...Such as pull ups, which will increase your ability to do overhang stuff.
Its very ignorant to say technique is the only aspect to climbing
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cerikpete
Dec 11, 2002, 11:02 PM
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What else do you do in winter?
Hit a (heaven forbid) gym. I know that seems to be anathema to a lot of people on this site but it's good in a pinch.
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jonzoclimber
Dec 11, 2002, 11:35 PM
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that implies there is one near u
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cerikpete
Dec 11, 2002, 11:41 PM
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Boston Rock Gym is about 20-30 minutes from Lincoln. That's how far I drive to my gym.
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vegastradguy
Dec 11, 2002, 11:45 PM
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actually, if you have really good feet, you dont need as much back strength as you might think.
my friend who hasnt got very much upper body strength at all, but has killer footwork and awesome technique can climb our lead roof on 5.10's just as well as the beefy guys who have way more upper body strength than she does.
it's all in technique..although having good upper body stength isn't going to hurt.
and for the record, i can climb 5.10c on lead, 5.11b on TR, and on a good day, i can do 12-15 pullups.
anyway, if you dont have a gym near you, you might consider building a home wall, or getting a hang board, or building some campus rungs so you can mimic powerful climbing moves.
either way, if you can 250 pullups, your upper body strength is all you'll ever need!
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wyomingclimber
Dec 11, 2002, 11:46 PM
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I'm not trying to say that strength isn't important in climbing--of course it is. Though I'd argue there are a lot of people who can't do a single pullup climbing way harder than 5.9.
What I'm saying is that too much emphasis is put on power these days. I once got into a pullup contest (too much beer and testosterone) with a couple of guys I climb with. I can't even remember how many the guy who won did--I got tired of counting. I came in second with 40 and the guy who lost got 25 or so. What's interesting about this is that this result was the inverse of our relative climbing abilities. The guy who lost had just redpointed a .13d.
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jonzoclimber
Dec 12, 2002, 1:11 AM
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I think u guys have it wrong, I'm not saying i want to be able to do 250 at one time... I only do like 20-30 at a time.... like the guy u were just talking about diong a .13 All i was asking was what other muscles i needed to train
i cant figure out what other muscles are usefull for climbing
in reality we dont use much leg strength other then just what normal people should have...enough to squat and such. But do we need like bicepts or tricepts??? thats all i was wondering. I think the question is getting twisted
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orangekyak
Dec 12, 2002, 2:08 AM
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Quote:
all very typical answers from people who cant do a pull up
then why did you ask us?
Quote:
i agree technique is important, but u do need to be able to hold on.
if you have technique you conserve energy. holding on is not a problem. to improve grip strength in highly technical situations, take 128South to 9East to Hammond Pond parkway. Park in MDC lot, walk through gate, turn left up the hill into the alcove. take rrradams's advice and boulder. master the 20 problems there and your grip will be bomber. great place to learn technique too, since the problems are very sequential.
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Saying that u cant do a pull up just proves that you obviously couldnt do a 5.9...
gonna call you out on this one. i have seen a couple youngsters (down to 7 yrs old) in their first few times climbing complete a stiff 5.9 route on overhanging terrain. at least one of them was not capable of completing a pull up without kicking off the wall (thereby using their feet, the essence of technique).
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no kidding climbing is the best way to get better at climbing...But when its winter and u cant what do u do? u train, that means other stuff...Such as pull ups, which will increase your ability to do overhang stuff.
you answered it yourself. go climb. BRG is 15 minutes away.
Quote:
Its very ignorant to say technique is the only aspect to climbing
If you wanna be a better climber get tough in the head - but this isn't the website for working out those muscles.
Sorry if this is a bit of a flame, it just seems like you know the answer is to climb more but you want to tell us about your push up accomplishments.
[ This Message was edited by: orangekyak on 2002-12-11 18:11 ]
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apollodorus
Dec 12, 2002, 2:10 AM
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The same one you work on for all types of climbing: the one between your ears. Good technique is more important than having Hans and Franz there to pump you up.
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