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SummitSnowStorm
Mar 7, 2010, 11:40 AM
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Most of the books out there ( Training for Climbing, SCC,etc.) emphasize the importance of specifity in training for climbing.
However,recently I found this article on Mark Twight´s website,which I found pretty interesting :
http://www.gymjones.com/knowledge.php?id=46
I am quite skeptical about non-specific training,but it seems that these guys also were and for them worked really well :
In reply to: David Banks’ experience was simple: while strength and conditioning didn’t necessarily improve his climbing it sped recovery, which allowed greater training frequency. In the end he had a greater number of “good days”, meaning he could climb more often at high intensity. And that led to increased technical proficiency. James and Steve experienced similar development. After he began climbing seriously again Litz commented that within a week or so he was “at the place it usually took four to six weeks of concentrated effort to reach,” meaning the transfer of training was quite efficient even though it was not as specific as what he was used to doing.
What do you guys think about this? Or the idea of incorporating such a training for some months in winter time so as to be able to train (specifically) more often after?
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bsyed
Mar 8, 2010, 12:10 PM
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try not training seasonally, no other sports do it anymore. if you cant get to some real rock try the gym.
I've trued for "simulated training" recently, it combines some gymnastic routines with movements that simulate what climbs do.
Specific training is the best way to improve muscle in areas WHERE ITS ACTUALLY NEEDED so we dont end up to heavy and the muscle we have is useful in the climb.
fine general conditioning is good and all if your sitness isnt 100% (like mine) but periodisation and specific training is better.
The more we start treating climbing like a Professional sport the better people will get at it as we begin to understand what is necessary in specific builds.
take for example american football: the entire team trains one general terms but players train additionally for their specific roles.
we have to do the same for climbing, build for each discipline specifically (bouldering, sport, long hauls, speed).
TOO BAD YOU LOSE ALL THE FUN OF CLIMBING BY TREATING IT AS A SPORT NOT A PERSONAL CHALLENGE
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newguy5000
Mar 17, 2010, 6:30 AM
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I've done the Gym Jones stuff. It gets you really really really really fit.
I think the overall conditioning stuff, whether it's xfit, Gym Jones or whatever version of HIT is useful for climbing. I say useful in the sense that it won't make you worse and will provide you with a more balanced body, aid in recovery and help to prevent injuries (provided you train intelligently)
A lot of people emphasise specific rock climbing training on this site and yeah you need it, but i think most people talk like they are in the top 5% of climbers in the world. The average joe, that does nothing but climb with an obsessive passion will usually injure themselves at some point by overtaxing themselves without factoring in enough recovery time. This seems worse indoors than outdoors as most people i climb with indoors appear to think it's normal to be walking around with all sorts rotator cuff, elbow and other injuries.
We could all benefit from getting off the rock for a bit and training in some other disciplines. The rock isn't going anywhere.
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bsyed
Mar 17, 2010, 12:59 PM
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agreed...
you have to train your entire body generally but this gym jones stuff is general conditioning, it wont help you improve your climbing as greatly as specific training or simulated training will (if you are already fit)
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k.l.k
Mar 19, 2010, 7:08 PM
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SS s correct: For serious alpinists and expedition climbers, Twight's Jack LaLanne retro deal is fairly sport-specific.
Hard alpine climbing, big wall climbing and expedition climbing require huge loads of menial physical labor, often times in very intense bursts.
When all of us did construction work, there wasn't much point in recreating that stuff at the gym.
Now that most climbers are desk jockeys, they have to flog themselves in the gym.
But since the default for "climbing" here at RC is short gym and sport routes, picking up a tire doesn't look much like climbing.
Of course, there's still plenty of manual labor in sport climbing if you're the one actually developing the choss. Follow Jak around for a couple weeks-- he'll be happy to give you a shovel and a crowbar.
Heh
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patmay81
Mar 19, 2010, 7:55 PM
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looking at that web site and the video within, I am very glad I am a weekend warrior and have no aspirations to 'break through' the next grade. that "training" looked like the opposite of fun, I climb because its fun (yes painful, but fun), not because it sucks goats balls like that dude falling all over the gym floor because he was to exhausted to stand up.
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camhead
Mar 19, 2010, 8:08 PM
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suprasoup wrote: This is where you climb: [image]http://blog.pennlive.com/midstate_impact/2009/01/large_chuckecheesse.jpg[/image] You think that because you believe you know how to climb. You don't. Period.
I dunno, from what I've seen in the news recently, Chuck E. Cheese is approaching K2 for objective dangers.
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tripperjm
Mar 20, 2010, 12:32 AM
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Why do you have to hate on teh choss?
Why?
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k.l.k
Mar 20, 2010, 12:43 AM
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tripperjm wrote: Why do you have to hate on teh choss? Why?
I see you've given in and are heading to SD. Heh. It's still. "be there or be slandered," eh?
Hi to the old folks for me.
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caughtinside
Mar 20, 2010, 12:57 AM
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k.l.k wrote: tripperjm wrote: Why do you have to hate on teh choss? Why? I see you've given in and are heading to SD. Heh. It's still. "be there or be slandered," eh? Hi to the old folks for me.
No ball cupping for you klk?
As for you jak, it's cup or be cupped!
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tripperjm
Mar 20, 2010, 1:16 AM
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k.l.k wrote: tripperjm wrote: Why do you have to hate on teh choss? Why? I see you've given in and are heading to SD. Heh. It's still. "be there or be slandered," eh? Hi to the old folks for me.
That's kinda the rule... Well, it's more like a guideline. Still, that, and I like being avalable to my critics.
and what due ewe mean by 'given in'?
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tripperjm
Mar 20, 2010, 1:25 AM
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caughtinside wrote: k.l.k wrote: tripperjm wrote: Why do you have to hate on teh choss? Why? I see you've given in and are heading to SD. Heh. It's still. "be there or be slandered," eh? Hi to the old folks for me. No ball cupping for you klk? As for you jak, it's cup or be cupped!
I'm kinda concerned... cuz, well it is teh Ballcupping Reunion and awl, and I don't realy confortable framing my package for all those perves. So I have dicided to run my old 2" red swamii on saturday. Hoping to keep some of those stray hands out of my pants. Guess we'll see how that werks.
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k.l.k
Mar 20, 2010, 1:34 AM
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caughtinside wrote: k.l.k wrote: tripperjm wrote: Why do you have to hate on teh choss? Why? I see you've given in and are heading to SD. Heh. It's still. "be there or be slandered," eh? Hi to the old folks for me. No ball cupping for you klk?
Uh, not really my thing.
Thanks for the offer, though. NTTAWWT
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k.l.k
Mar 20, 2010, 1:36 AM
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tripperjm wrote: k.l.k wrote: tripperjm wrote: Why do you have to hate on teh choss? Why? I see you've given in and are heading to SD. Heh. It's still. "be there or be slandered," eh? Hi to the old folks for me. That's kinda the rule... Well, it's more like a guideline. Still, that, and I like being avalable to my critics. and what due ewe mean by 'given in'?
Let me guess: The new choss is still underwater?
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Alpine07
Mar 20, 2010, 5:15 AM
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k.l.k wrote: tripperjm wrote: k.l.k wrote: tripperjm wrote: Why do you have to hate on teh choss? Why? I see you've given in and are heading to SD. Heh. It's still. "be there or be slandered," eh? Hi to the old folks for me. That's kinda the rule... Well, it's more like a guideline. Still, that, and I like being avalable to my critics. and what due ewe mean by 'given in'? Let me guess: The new choss is still underwater?
You guys have quickly and efficiently thrown this thread off track. Gud werk!
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Alpine07
Mar 20, 2010, 5:17 AM
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I would also like to add that when Mark Twight does push ups, he doesn't push himself up, he pushes the earth down.
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suprasoup
Mar 20, 2010, 7:25 AM
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Alpine07 wrote: I would also like to add that when Mark Twight does push ups, he doesn't push himself up, he pushes the earth down.
When Bruce Banner gets mad he turns into the Hulk. When the Hulk gets mad he turns into Mark Twight.
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bsyed
Mar 20, 2010, 10:45 AM
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ahahahaha i know i just got insulted but your posts are always hilarious.
yeah mark twight is a beast
actually looking at the gym jones page ( I know, im stupid to comment without even reading posts properly) the training is pretty specific.
undoubtedly that a one arm pullup with extra weight will probably propel you up to the clouds
(whats chucky cheese?)
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ceebo
Mar 20, 2010, 3:07 PM
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bsyed wrote: ahahahaha i know i just got insulted but your posts are always hilarious. yeah mark twight is a beast actually looking at the gym jones page ( I know, im stupid to comment without even reading posts properly) the training is pretty specific. undoubtedly that a one arm pullup with extra weight will probably propel you up to the clouds (whats chucky cheese?)
I really cannot understand the logic behind training 1 arm pull ups. To me its the same as putting a jet engine in a robin reliant and expecting its shty little brakes to still stop you.
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brokesomeribs
Mar 22, 2010, 4:57 AM
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ceebo wrote: I really cannot understand the logic behind training 1 arm pull ups. To me its the same as putting a jet engine in a robin reliant and expecting its shty little brakes to still stop you.
You probably don't climb very hard.
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jt512
Mar 22, 2010, 5:32 AM
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brokesomeribs wrote: ceebo wrote: I really cannot understand the logic behind training 1 arm pull ups. To me its the same as putting a jet engine in a robin reliant and expecting its shty little brakes to still stop you. You probably don't climb very hard.
On the other hand, according to your profile, you definitely don't climb very hard.
Jay
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I_do
Mar 22, 2010, 10:26 AM
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brokesomeribs wrote: ceebo wrote: I really cannot understand the logic behind training 1 arm pull ups. To me its the same as putting a jet engine in a robin reliant and expecting its shty little brakes to still stop you. You probably don't climb very hard.
I know several guys that climb mid 5.13, none of which train 1-arm pull ups. You probably don't knwo what you're talking about.
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brokesomeribs
Mar 22, 2010, 4:36 PM
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jt512 wrote: On the other hand, according to your profile, you definitely don't climb very hard. Jay
I climbed a 5.12+ in the gym last night.
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I_do
Mar 22, 2010, 11:30 PM
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brokesomeribs wrote: jt512 wrote: On the other hand, according to your profile, you definitely don't climb very hard. Jay I climbed a 5.12+ in the gym last night.
And I had sex with a prostitute with herpes, why are you bothering us with this? We are talking about climbing, grades on rock aren't even anywhere near being consistent but a 5.12+ in the gym, you are so fucking hardcore dude! You must train lots of one arm pull ups!
Just ran into a friend of mine in the gym I haven't seen in a while, she climbs 5.12+ without even being able to do more then 1 or 2 two arm pull ups, tell me again how you need to train those to climb hard.
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