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Gmburns2000
Mar 23, 2010, 2:09 AM
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Gmburns2000
Mar 23, 2010, 2:09 AM
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^^ in honor of the original posts.
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Gmburns2000
Mar 23, 2010, 2:10 AM
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jeremiah has a post on his NC trip coming up soon. I've read part of it. I think it will be an interesting read.
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Gmburns2000
Mar 23, 2010, 2:10 AM
Post #5504 of 45342
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ok, I gotta read and go to bed.
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Gmburns2000
Mar 23, 2010, 2:10 AM
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night-night.
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Gmburns2000
Mar 23, 2010, 2:10 AM
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night-night to you too.
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Gmburns2000
Mar 23, 2010, 2:11 AM
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HEY! where do you think you're going?
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Gmburns2000
Mar 23, 2010, 2:11 AM
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Gmburns2000
Mar 23, 2010, 2:11 AM
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Gmburns2000
Mar 23, 2010, 2:11 AM
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notapplicable
Mar 23, 2010, 2:17 AM
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Lazlo wrote: donald949 wrote: Gmburns2000 wrote: caughtinside wrote: Gmburns2000 wrote: nice. at least your getting out. Ecop is making me climb in 40 degree weather on sunday.  (blackmail sucks!). Actually, I'm going to tag along to see where this crag is and get a feel for the place. if it warms up, then i'll climb. if not, then i'll just hang and check the place out. Yo burns... we didn't come out here to check things out, we came out here to check things off. I'll climb, but it won't be pretty. A bad day climbing, including cold hands or a twisted ankle, is better than a any day at the home and garden show. I'll tell you what... After working through the weekend, I have found a new level of suckage and hate associated with Mondays.
Ah yes, the dreaded 8th day of the week.
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notapplicable
Mar 23, 2010, 2:21 AM
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Gmburns2000 wrote: donald949 wrote: notapplicable wrote: donald949 wrote: Also, had a little miss hap. I Meat Bomb'd the Noobz. We get to the Big Rock, and its only the 2nd nice weekend since jan 1st, and the parking lot is full. Oh well. Hoping to work some stuff on the left, but its all roped up. I squizze in between two groups on the right and rope up. Climb past the first bolt, standing on a couple slopers, hands on slopers, and feet are sliding. I don't think the route is all that hard, maybe an 8, with the crux being where I'm at. But still. Quick dessicion move up to the good 3/4" edge, and clip the second bolt before I slide off. I don't make the edge. Peel and fall. Tim locks up catchs me no problem. Right ankle must have gotten twisted on the way down, as its tender. Right hand has a blister, yes the joys of slab. But otherwise Im fine. Tim is looking past me. I turn around. The young ladies from the local U are out climbing with their class.  Their eyes were that big. they were right behind me. And I just meat bombed them.  Other than the ankle, thats pretty funny. It's great to see all heads turn when somebody takes a good fall. I didn't take any terror inducers like that but a few falls did happen yesterday. I was climbing with the new guy and two weeks ago was the first time he had lead a route or belayed a lead, so this time round I took a fall so he could catch one and then he took two falls to get a feel for it. He seemed to dig it actually, which is a good sign. Yes, other than the ankle it was pretty funny. I've occasionally thought about taking practice leader falls. Say at an anchor, rather than a single piece. What do you do to set up practice falls? It would be good if I had some instinct when falling. Most of mine have not turned out well. I've taken all of my practice falls in a gym, usually at least three bolts up. I did tell Jen to take a practice fall once because she was petrified of what was above her. It was on a bolt and there was another bolt below that (plenty of distance if the top bolt busted). It worked and she sent pretty well. I'm not sure I'd ever take a practice fall on gear, though. Too many variable that could go wrong. Just remember, be a cat: bent arms and knees, go with the fall, and let your bendable limbs absorb the fall rather than be stiff and try to fight it.
I'm not real big in to practice falls but if taking or catching them will make a person feel more at ease, I'll help em out. A person concerned with and distracted by something as elementary (to climbing) as falling is a dangerous person to tie in with IMO.
(This post was edited by notapplicable on Mar 23, 2010, 2:21 AM)
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notapplicable
Mar 23, 2010, 2:23 AM
Post #5513 of 45342
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Gmburns2000 wrote: dont you just hate that? it's like that time you e-mailed car talk and refreshed your e-mail 150 times the next hour to see if they had read it yet.
Freak
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notapplicable
Mar 23, 2010, 2:23 AM
Post #5514 of 45342
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Gmburns2000 wrote: yeah, his name is Pikup Andropov.
heh
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notapplicable
Mar 23, 2010, 2:24 AM
Post #5515 of 45342
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Gmburns2000 wrote: yeah, why?
Got your ass handed to ya, didn't ya.
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notapplicable
Mar 23, 2010, 2:25 AM
Post #5516 of 45342
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Gmburns2000 wrote: you fucking stink. go take a shower you slob.
And thats because plastic is for the real rock masters
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notapplicable
Mar 23, 2010, 2:26 AM
Post #5517 of 45342
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Gmburns2000 wrote: jeremiah has a post on his NC trip coming up soon. I've read part of it. I think it will be an interesting read.
I hope he had fun and gets some form of resolution to that whole stolen gear bullshit.
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Gmburns2000
Mar 23, 2010, 1:36 PM
Post #5518 of 45342
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notapplicable wrote: Gmburns2000 wrote: donald949 wrote: notapplicable wrote: donald949 wrote: Also, had a little miss hap. I Meat Bomb'd the Noobz. We get to the Big Rock, and its only the 2nd nice weekend since jan 1st, and the parking lot is full. Oh well. Hoping to work some stuff on the left, but its all roped up. I squizze in between two groups on the right and rope up. Climb past the first bolt, standing on a couple slopers, hands on slopers, and feet are sliding. I don't think the route is all that hard, maybe an 8, with the crux being where I'm at. But still. Quick dessicion move up to the good 3/4" edge, and clip the second bolt before I slide off. I don't make the edge. Peel and fall. Tim locks up catchs me no problem. Right ankle must have gotten twisted on the way down, as its tender. Right hand has a blister, yes the joys of slab. But otherwise Im fine. Tim is looking past me. I turn around. The young ladies from the local U are out climbing with their class. Their eyes were that big. they were right behind me. And I just meat bombed them. Other than the ankle, thats pretty funny. It's great to see all heads turn when somebody takes a good fall. I didn't take any terror inducers like that but a few falls did happen yesterday. I was climbing with the new guy and two weeks ago was the first time he had lead a route or belayed a lead, so this time round I took a fall so he could catch one and then he took two falls to get a feel for it. He seemed to dig it actually, which is a good sign. Yes, other than the ankle it was pretty funny. I've occasionally thought about taking practice leader falls. Say at an anchor, rather than a single piece. What do you do to set up practice falls? It would be good if I had some instinct when falling. Most of mine have not turned out well. I've taken all of my practice falls in a gym, usually at least three bolts up. I did tell Jen to take a practice fall once because she was petrified of what was above her. It was on a bolt and there was another bolt below that (plenty of distance if the top bolt busted). It worked and she sent pretty well. I'm not sure I'd ever take a practice fall on gear, though. Too many variable that could go wrong. Just remember, be a cat: bent arms and knees, go with the fall, and let your bendable limbs absorb the fall rather than be stiff and try to fight it. I'm not real big in to practice falls but if taking or catching them will make a person feel more at ease, I'll help em out. A person concerned with and distracted by something as elementary (to climbing) as falling is a dangerous person to tie in with IMO.
I think the fear of falling is anything but elementary for some people. There have been times when I've been OK with it, and there have been times when I've been petrified...in a gym.
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Gmburns2000
Mar 23, 2010, 1:45 PM
Post #5519 of 45342
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notapplicable wrote: Gmburns2000 wrote: jeremiah has a post on his NC trip coming up soon. I've read part of it. I think it will be an interesting read. I hope he had fun and gets some form of resolution to that whole stolen gear bullshit.
he hasn't really. he's still trying to work out the insurance stuff, which hasn't been as fun as he'd hoped it would be.
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Gmburns2000
Mar 23, 2010, 1:50 PM
Post #5520 of 45342
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notapplicable wrote: Gmburns2000 wrote: you fucking stink. go take a shower you slob. And thats because plastic is for the real rock masters
actually, it was a regular gym. 1hr cross arc + weights. Tonight it's 3hrs of climbing + swim.
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kachoong
Mar 23, 2010, 2:25 PM
Post #5521 of 45342
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donald949 wrote: I've occasionally thought about taking practice leader falls. Say at an anchor, rather than a single piece. What do you do to set up practice falls? It would be good if I had some instinct when falling. Most of mine have not turned out well.
I've set up instances, during early parts of my climbing years, to practice lead falls, but not so much anymore. I found the best place either in the gym or outside on bolted climbs. Most important thing though, it should be overhanging to minimise risk of hurting an ankle or knee. Falling from an anchor isn't as good as a bolt on the climb, mainly due to not being able in most cases to climb past the anchor to take a fall. On trad you'd best leave the falling till all other possibilities have been exhausted. I did used to practice trad falling, but I was younger and cocky and stuffed the crack with lots of pro.
All that aside, there's nothing better for your days confidence than to take a fall with a flash pump early in the day... gets it out of the way.
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donald949
Mar 23, 2010, 3:39 PM
Post #5522 of 45342
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Lazlo wrote: donald949 wrote: Gmburns2000 wrote: caughtinside wrote: Gmburns2000 wrote: nice. at least your getting out. Ecop is making me climb in 40 degree weather on sunday. (blackmail sucks!). Actually, I'm going to tag along to see where this crag is and get a feel for the place. if it warms up, then i'll climb. if not, then i'll just hang and check the place out. Yo burns... we didn't come out here to check things out, we came out here to check things off. I'll climb, but it won't be pretty. A bad day climbing, including cold hands or a twisted ankle, is better than a any day at the home and garden show. I'll tell you what... After working through the weekend, I have found a new level of suckage and hate associated with Mondays.
Yea, but least you were getting paid to go. 
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donald949
Mar 23, 2010, 3:41 PM
Post #5523 of 45342
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Gmburns2000 wrote: donald949 wrote: notapplicable wrote: donald949 wrote: Also, had a little miss hap. I Meat Bomb'd the Noobz. We get to the Big Rock, and its only the 2nd nice weekend since jan 1st, and the parking lot is full. Oh well. Hoping to work some stuff on the left, but its all roped up. I squizze in between two groups on the right and rope up. Climb past the first bolt, standing on a couple slopers, hands on slopers, and feet are sliding. I don't think the route is all that hard, maybe an 8, with the crux being where I'm at. But still. Quick dessicion move up to the good 3/4" edge, and clip the second bolt before I slide off. I don't make the edge. Peel and fall. Tim locks up catchs me no problem. Right ankle must have gotten twisted on the way down, as its tender. Right hand has a blister, yes the joys of slab. But otherwise Im fine. Tim is looking past me. I turn around. The young ladies from the local U are out climbing with their class. Their eyes were that big. they were right behind me. And I just meat bombed them. Other than the ankle, thats pretty funny. It's great to see all heads turn when somebody takes a good fall. I didn't take any terror inducers like that but a few falls did happen yesterday. I was climbing with the new guy and two weeks ago was the first time he had lead a route or belayed a lead, so this time round I took a fall so he could catch one and then he took two falls to get a feel for it. He seemed to dig it actually, which is a good sign. Yes, other than the ankle it was pretty funny. I've occasionally thought about taking practice leader falls. Say at an anchor, rather than a single piece. What do you do to set up practice falls? It would be good if I had some instinct when falling. Most of mine have not turned out well. I've taken all of my practice falls in a gym, usually at least three bolts up. I did tell Jen to take a practice fall once because she was petrified of what was above her. It was on a bolt and there was another bolt below that (plenty of distance if the top bolt busted). It worked and she sent pretty well. I'm not sure I'd ever take a practice fall on gear, though. Too many variable that could go wrong. Just remember, be a cat: bent arms and knees, go with the fall, and let your bendable limbs absorb the fall rather than be stiff and try to fight it.
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donald949
Mar 23, 2010, 3:44 PM
Post #5524 of 45342
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Gmburns2000 wrote: yeah, his name is Pikup Andropov.
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donald949
Mar 23, 2010, 3:53 PM
Post #5525 of 45342
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kachoong wrote: donald949 wrote: I've occasionally thought about taking practice leader falls. Say at an anchor, rather than a single piece. What do you do to set up practice falls? It would be good if I had some instinct when falling. Most of mine have not turned out well. I've set up instances, during early parts of my climbing years, to practice lead falls, but not so much anymore. I found the best place either in the gym or outside on bolted climbs. Most important thing though, it should be overhanging to minimise risk of hurting an ankle or knee. Falling from an anchor isn't as good as a bolt on the climb, mainly due to not being able in most cases to climb past the anchor to take a fall. On trad you'd best leave the falling till all other possibilities have been exhausted. I did used to practice trad falling, but I was younger and cocky and stuffed the crack with lots of pro. All that aside, there's nothing better for your days confidence than to take a fall with a flash pump early in the day... gets it out of the way.
Reflexes. Thats the word I'm looking for. While I've certainly taken a few lead falls lately. I have not taken many falls as a leader overall. TR yea. I'll tackle any problem and fall a million times on TR/2nd. So I don't think I have the right reflexes on lead falls.
Although the one time I kept falling on gear in Josh, I think by the end of the go I was doing better. Course I had sewed it up so they weren't long after the first fall.
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