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donald949
Mar 23, 2010, 4:49 PM
Post #5526 of 45342
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That time I fell repeatedly on gear in Josh was good in a way. I had never really fallen hard on gear. Even though trad climbing is all we did back in the day. And with a couple of my partners I did all the leading, others it was more even.
Sure I took a couple hard falls on bolts, though I wouldn't call them sport routes.
So it was kind of like proof testing the concept.
Anyrate, leading above gear before you are really really sure that it will hold, sure makes you focus. And I look back and think how little gear I had, and how far above gear I must have been some times. 
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Gmburns2000
Mar 23, 2010, 5:39 PM
Post #5527 of 45342
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kachoong wrote: All that aside, there's nothing better for your days confidence than to take a fall with a flash pump early in the day... gets it out of the way.
ain't that the truth.
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Gmburns2000
Mar 23, 2010, 5:41 PM
Post #5528 of 45342
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I've taken a few falls on gear. only one was a fall I knew was coming, and that ended up being a 20-footer. but it was a good catch.
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Lazlo
Mar 24, 2010, 2:07 AM
Post #5529 of 45342
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Gmburns2000 wrote: Lazlo wrote: donald949 wrote: Gmburns2000 wrote: caughtinside wrote: Gmburns2000 wrote: nice. at least your getting out. Ecop is making me climb in 40 degree weather on sunday.  (blackmail sucks!). Actually, I'm going to tag along to see where this crag is and get a feel for the place. if it warms up, then i'll climb. if not, then i'll just hang and check the place out. Yo burns... we didn't come out here to check things out, we came out here to check things off. I'll climb, but it won't be pretty. A bad day climbing, including cold hands or a twisted ankle, is better than a any day at the home and garden show. I'll tell you what... After working through the weekend, I have found a new level of suckage and hate associated with Mondays. what does that mean, you worked seven days straight? sucks if that's the case.
Yep. That's the case.
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Gmburns2000
Mar 24, 2010, 2:15 AM
Post #5530 of 45342
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that sucks. have you heard back from the cops yet?
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Lazlo
Mar 24, 2010, 2:15 AM
Post #5531 of 45342
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Next weekend, I'm STILL going to be working.
But at least I'm going to be guiding. We're doing a four day rock climbing trip. The bonus part is that we'll be staying in a hotel for a change. No bivy bags!
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Lazlo
Mar 24, 2010, 2:18 AM
Post #5533 of 45342
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Seagrams Sweet Tea Vodka is pretty good.
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Lazlo
Mar 24, 2010, 2:19 AM
Post #5534 of 45342
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Lazlo wrote: Next weekend, I'm STILL going to be working. But at least I'm going to be guiding. We're doing a four day rock climbing trip. The bonus part is that we'll be staying in a hotel for a change. No bivy bags!
Wooo!
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notapplicable
Mar 24, 2010, 2:31 AM
Post #5535 of 45342
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Gmburns2000 wrote: notapplicable wrote: Gmburns2000 wrote: donald949 wrote: notapplicable wrote: donald949 wrote: Also, had a little miss hap. I Meat Bomb'd the Noobz. We get to the Big Rock, and its only the 2nd nice weekend since jan 1st, and the parking lot is full. Oh well. Hoping to work some stuff on the left, but its all roped up. I squizze in between two groups on the right and rope up. Climb past the first bolt, standing on a couple slopers, hands on slopers, and feet are sliding. I don't think the route is all that hard, maybe an 8, with the crux being where I'm at. But still. Quick dessicion move up to the good 3/4" edge, and clip the second bolt before I slide off. I don't make the edge. Peel and fall. Tim locks up catchs me no problem. Right ankle must have gotten twisted on the way down, as its tender. Right hand has a blister, yes the joys of slab. But otherwise Im fine. Tim is looking past me. I turn around. The young ladies from the local U are out climbing with their class.  Their eyes were that big. they were right behind me. And I just meat bombed them.  Other than the ankle, thats pretty funny. It's great to see all heads turn when somebody takes a good fall. I didn't take any terror inducers like that but a few falls did happen yesterday. I was climbing with the new guy and two weeks ago was the first time he had lead a route or belayed a lead, so this time round I took a fall so he could catch one and then he took two falls to get a feel for it. He seemed to dig it actually, which is a good sign. Yes, other than the ankle it was pretty funny. I've occasionally thought about taking practice leader falls. Say at an anchor, rather than a single piece. What do you do to set up practice falls? It would be good if I had some instinct when falling. Most of mine have not turned out well. I've taken all of my practice falls in a gym, usually at least three bolts up. I did tell Jen to take a practice fall once because she was petrified of what was above her. It was on a bolt and there was another bolt below that (plenty of distance if the top bolt busted). It worked and she sent pretty well. I'm not sure I'd ever take a practice fall on gear, though. Too many variable that could go wrong. Just remember, be a cat: bent arms and knees, go with the fall, and let your bendable limbs absorb the fall rather than be stiff and try to fight it. I'm not real big in to practice falls but if taking or catching them will make a person feel more at ease, I'll help em out. A person concerned with and distracted by something as elementary (to climbing) as falling is a dangerous person to tie in with IMO. I think the fear of falling is anything but elementary for some people. There have been times when I've been OK with it, and there have been times when I've been petrified...in a gym.
Sorry, I think my phrasing was poorly chosen. By "elementary", I meant fundamental or integral to the activity itself, in a sense unavoidable. That being the case, I think a person for whom falling is both a concern and an unknown us likely to be unduly distracted by the impending event so in such a case, I'd rather address it in a timely fashion.
I wasn't trying to be dismissive of a persons fears. Falling can be spooky man, you'll get no argument from me on that.
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Gmburns2000
Mar 24, 2010, 2:31 AM
Post #5536 of 45342
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Lazlo wrote: Gmburns2000 wrote: that sucks. have you heard back from the cops yet? Yeah  I got a very low score on my interview.
aw that sucks, dude. sorry to hear that. any chance of going through a second time and learning what mistakes you made?
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notapplicable
Mar 24, 2010, 2:34 AM
Post #5537 of 45342
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Gmburns2000 wrote: notapplicable wrote: Gmburns2000 wrote: you fucking stink. go take a shower you slob. And thats because plastic is for the real rock masters actually, it was a regular gym. 1hr cross arc + weights. Tonight it's 3hrs of climbing + swim.
Damn, your really gettin after it this year. Good deal.
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notapplicable
Mar 24, 2010, 2:37 AM
Post #5538 of 45342
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kachoong wrote: All that aside, there's nothing better for your days confidence than to take a fall with a flash pump early in the day... gets it out of the way.
Totally agree. The rest of the day is smooth sailing after that first fall.
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notapplicable
Mar 24, 2010, 2:40 AM
Post #5539 of 45342
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Lazlo wrote: Next weekend, I'm STILL going to be working. But at least I'm going to be guiding. We're doing a four day rock climbing trip. The bonus part is that we'll be staying in a hotel for a change. No bivy bags!
That ain't half shabby man!
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notapplicable
Mar 24, 2010, 2:41 AM
Post #5540 of 45342
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Lazlo wrote: Gmburns2000 wrote: that sucks. have you heard back from the cops yet? Yeah I got a very low score on my interview.
Laz fails psych profile?
Hmmmm, very interesting...
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Lazlo
Mar 24, 2010, 2:47 AM
Post #5541 of 45342
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notapplicable wrote: Lazlo wrote: Gmburns2000 wrote: that sucks. have you heard back from the cops yet? Yeah I got a very low score on my interview. Laz fails psych profile? Hmmmm, very interesting...
Passed the psyche. Just not my panel interview.
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Lazlo
Mar 24, 2010, 2:48 AM
Post #5542 of 45342
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Gmburns2000 wrote: Lazlo wrote: Gmburns2000 wrote: that sucks. have you heard back from the cops yet? Yeah I got a very low score on my interview. aw that sucks, dude. sorry to hear that. any chance of going through a second time and learning what mistakes you made?
Leigha wants me to...but I don't think I'm going to give it another go.
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Lazlo
Mar 24, 2010, 2:49 AM
Post #5543 of 45342
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notapplicable wrote: Lazlo wrote: Next weekend, I'm STILL going to be working. But at least I'm going to be guiding. We're doing a four day rock climbing trip. The bonus part is that we'll be staying in a hotel for a change. No bivy bags! That ain't half shabby man!
Yeah. i'm really stoked. I make a lot more guiding than I do at my 9-5.
(or should I say my 7-5:30? )
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Lazlo
Mar 24, 2010, 5:02 AM
Post #5544 of 45342
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Gmburns2000
Mar 24, 2010, 11:40 AM
Post #5546 of 45342
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notapplicable wrote: Gmburns2000 wrote: notapplicable wrote: Gmburns2000 wrote: donald949 wrote: notapplicable wrote: donald949 wrote: Also, had a little miss hap. I Meat Bomb'd the Noobz. We get to the Big Rock, and its only the 2nd nice weekend since jan 1st, and the parking lot is full. Oh well. Hoping to work some stuff on the left, but its all roped up. I squizze in between two groups on the right and rope up. Climb past the first bolt, standing on a couple slopers, hands on slopers, and feet are sliding. I don't think the route is all that hard, maybe an 8, with the crux being where I'm at. But still. Quick dessicion move up to the good 3/4" edge, and clip the second bolt before I slide off. I don't make the edge. Peel and fall. Tim locks up catchs me no problem. Right ankle must have gotten twisted on the way down, as its tender. Right hand has a blister, yes the joys of slab. But otherwise Im fine. Tim is looking past me. I turn around. The young ladies from the local U are out climbing with their class. Their eyes were that big. they were right behind me. And I just meat bombed them. Other than the ankle, thats pretty funny. It's great to see all heads turn when somebody takes a good fall. I didn't take any terror inducers like that but a few falls did happen yesterday. I was climbing with the new guy and two weeks ago was the first time he had lead a route or belayed a lead, so this time round I took a fall so he could catch one and then he took two falls to get a feel for it. He seemed to dig it actually, which is a good sign. Yes, other than the ankle it was pretty funny. I've occasionally thought about taking practice leader falls. Say at an anchor, rather than a single piece. What do you do to set up practice falls? It would be good if I had some instinct when falling. Most of mine have not turned out well. I've taken all of my practice falls in a gym, usually at least three bolts up. I did tell Jen to take a practice fall once because she was petrified of what was above her. It was on a bolt and there was another bolt below that (plenty of distance if the top bolt busted). It worked and she sent pretty well. I'm not sure I'd ever take a practice fall on gear, though. Too many variable that could go wrong. Just remember, be a cat: bent arms and knees, go with the fall, and let your bendable limbs absorb the fall rather than be stiff and try to fight it. I'm not real big in to practice falls but if taking or catching them will make a person feel more at ease, I'll help em out. A person concerned with and distracted by something as elementary (to climbing) as falling is a dangerous person to tie in with IMO. I think the fear of falling is anything but elementary for some people. There have been times when I've been OK with it, and there have been times when I've been petrified...in a gym. Sorry, I think my phrasing was poorly chosen. By "elementary", I meant fundamental or integral to the activity itself, in a sense unavoidable. That being the case, I think a person for whom falling is both a concern and an unknown us likely to be unduly distracted by the impending event so in such a case, I'd rather address it in a timely fashion. I wasn't trying to be dismissive of a persons fears. Falling can be spooky man, you'll get no argument from me on that.
ah, I see. sorry about that. come to think of it, I don't often get distracted by falling. sometimes the fear does prevent me from making a move, but it rarely distracts me to the point of not thinking of anything else.
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Gmburns2000
Mar 24, 2010, 11:42 AM
Post #5547 of 45342
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Lazlo wrote: Gmburns2000 wrote: Lazlo wrote: Gmburns2000 wrote: that sucks. have you heard back from the cops yet? Yeah I got a very low score on my interview. aw that sucks, dude. sorry to hear that. any chance of going through a second time and learning what mistakes you made? Leigha wants me to...but I don't think I'm going to give it another go.
do it. let the results settle. give it some time. give it enough time to let you think about it in a way that doesn't affect you emotionally. then, when you start thinking about it objectively, you'll have matured to the point where you're comfortable enough to try again...and you'll do well.
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Gmburns2000
Mar 24, 2010, 11:42 AM
Post #5548 of 45342
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what the fuck was that ^^ asshole! we don't do content in this thread!
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Gmburns2000
Mar 24, 2010, 11:43 AM
Post #5549 of 45342
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sorry!  pc++?
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Gmburns2000
Mar 24, 2010, 11:43 AM
Post #5550 of 45342
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better
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