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axs355
Mar 29, 2010, 1:49 PM
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I need to increase my finger strength. I have a very hard time pulling on finger pockets when I should be able to. Any workout ideas would be greatly appreciated.
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angry
Mar 29, 2010, 1:53 PM
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Climb more pockets. Get your feet under control.
I hate being so simplistic but that's really it.
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I_do
Mar 29, 2010, 2:08 PM
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axs355 wrote: I need to increase my finger strength. I have a very hard time pulling on finger pockets when I should be able to. Any workout ideas would be greatly appreciated.
So why should you be able to?
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rubber_man
Mar 29, 2010, 3:26 PM
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axs355 wrote: I need to increase my finger strength. I have a very hard time pulling on finger pockets when I should be able to. Any workout ideas would be greatly appreciated.
What level are you climbing currently? As angry said the best thing is probably just climb more and the strength will come. Footwork is one of the most overlooked things for beginning climbers.
If you really want to increase finger strength there's always things like these
http://www.backcountry.com/...mp;q=forearm+trainer
Hope this helps
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johnwesely
Mar 29, 2010, 3:31 PM
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I_do wrote: axs355 wrote: I need to increase my finger strength. I have a very hard time pulling on finger pockets when I should be able to. Any workout ideas would be greatly appreciated. So why should you be able to?
A strong sense of entitlement.
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jomagam
Mar 29, 2010, 3:32 PM
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In reply to: If you really want to increase finger strength there's always things like these
Those doughnuts or the gripmaster are great for warming up during the drive to the gym, but they won't really give you finger strength for climbing. You'll need a finger board for that, but if I guess your experience level based on your question, then you'll just need to climb more.
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rubber_man
Mar 29, 2010, 8:07 PM
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jomagam wrote: In reply to: If you really want to increase finger strength there's always things like these Those doughnuts or the gripmaster are great for warming up during the drive to the gym, but they won't really give you finger strength for climbing. You'll need a finger board for that, but if I guess your experience level based on your question, then you'll just need to climb more.
I disagree, it has most defiantly increased my finger strength, you can use a product like and work finger individually, or two at a time, etc. Get creative and you can get a workout from it.
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edge
Mar 29, 2010, 8:12 PM
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Get a hangboard and follow the prescribed workout that comes with it. I like the Metolius Simulator, but there are lots of good ones out there.
Keep a journal as to your performance and it will amaze you after a month. Just be sure to rest plenty in between workouts; twice a week is plenty.
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angry
Mar 29, 2010, 11:00 PM
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rubber_man wrote: jomagam wrote: In reply to: If you really want to increase finger strength there's always things like these Those doughnuts or the gripmaster are great for warming up during the drive to the gym, but they won't really give you finger strength for climbing. You'll need a finger board for that, but if I guess your experience level based on your question, then you'll just need to climb more. I disagree, it has most defiantly increased my finger strength, you can use a product like and work finger individually, or two at a time, etc. Get creative and you can get a workout from it.
I think this goes back to the sense of entitlement.
Those exercises have made you believe you can hold onto small holds, so you're holding onto small holds.
I like to go online and portray myself as a good climber, that way, I feel like I actually am a good climber and it totally helps me hang onto bad holds.
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rubber_man
Mar 30, 2010, 5:54 AM
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angry wrote: rubber_man wrote: jomagam wrote: In reply to: If you really want to increase finger strength there's always things like these Those doughnuts or the gripmaster are great for warming up during the drive to the gym, but they won't really give you finger strength for climbing. You'll need a finger board for that, but if I guess your experience level based on your question, then you'll just need to climb more. I disagree, it has most defiantly increased my finger strength, you can use a product like and work finger individually, or two at a time, etc. Get creative and you can get a workout from it. I think this goes back to the sense of entitlement. Those exercises have made you believe you can hold onto small holds, so you're holding onto small holds. I like to go online and portray myself as a good climber, that way, I feel like I actually am a good climber and it totally helps me hang onto bad holds.
I was under the impression you are a good climber angry, am i wrong?
either way improvement is improvement. i'll take it
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aerili
Mar 30, 2010, 6:12 AM
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rubber_man wrote: I was under the impression you are a good climber angry, am i wrong?
See definitions: sarcasm; irony; ironing
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evanwish
Apr 3, 2010, 2:41 AM
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+1
Great for when you're bored. Only problem is all my [non climber] friends in my dorm think its some form of sex toy... ugh
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rubber_man
Apr 3, 2010, 2:42 AM
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evanwish wrote: +1 Great for when you're bored. Only problem is all my [non climber] friends in my dorm think its some form of sex toy... ugh
good way to disguise sex toys tho.
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evanwish
Apr 3, 2010, 3:28 AM
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rubber_man wrote: evanwish wrote: +1 Great for when you're bored. Only problem is all my [non climber] friends in my dorm think its some form of sex toy... ugh good way to disguise sex toys tho.
Thats why they call you Rubber_Man eh?
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jacobbelsher
Apr 3, 2010, 3:40 AM
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hang board
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rubber_man
Apr 3, 2010, 3:47 AM
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evanwish wrote: rubber_man wrote: evanwish wrote: +1 Great for when you're bored. Only problem is all my [non climber] friends in my dorm think its some form of sex toy... ugh good way to disguise sex toys tho. Thats why they call you Rubber_Man eh?
you're the who came up with the sex toy part of it not me haha.
and no, they call me rubber_man because i stick to everything! damn that sounds bad too! SOB
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evanwish
Apr 3, 2010, 5:23 AM
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rubber_man wrote: evanwish wrote: rubber_man wrote: evanwish wrote: +1 Great for when you're bored. Only problem is all my [non climber] friends in my dorm think its some form of sex toy... ugh good way to disguise sex toys tho. Thats why they call you Rubber_Man eh? you're the who came up with the sex toy part of it not me haha. and no, they call me rubber_man because i stick to everything! damn that sounds bad too! SOB
That is good! Slab-master?
and sadly, its the lazy video gamers in the dorm coming up with those ideas... they needa get out and climb a rock!
which reminds me, off to my hand squeezy thing!
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rubber_man
Apr 3, 2010, 5:33 AM
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evanwish wrote: rubber_man wrote: evanwish wrote: rubber_man wrote: evanwish wrote: +1 Great for when you're bored. Only problem is all my [non climber] friends in my dorm think its some form of sex toy... ugh good way to disguise sex toys tho. Thats why they call you Rubber_Man eh? you're the who came up with the sex toy part of it not me haha. and no, they call me rubber_man because i stick to everything! damn that sounds bad too! SOB That is good! Slab-master? and sadly, its the lazy video gamers in the dorm coming up with those ideas... they needa get out and climb a rock! which reminds me, off to my hand squeezy thing!
I don't think i'm quite good enough to be considered slab-master. 
sadly there's a lot of those lazy video gamers at college, drives me nuts. I can barely sit for more than an hour or two during a day without having some sort of exercise.
enjoy your hand squeezy thing.
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evanwish
Apr 3, 2010, 6:52 AM
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axs355 wrote: I need to increase my finger strength. I have a very hard time pulling on finger pockets when I should be able to. Any workout ideas would be greatly appreciated.
back to the OP; I find my best strength increaser is just doing tons of endurance burns. But that may not be the best way for everyone to do it. Some people prefer to just work burly finger strength routes, but that just leaves you more prone to tendon issues if your muscles and tendons aren't strong enough yet (which goes back to the endurance training)
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ceebo
Apr 9, 2010, 12:52 AM
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I do a real good treverse work out for fingers.
After every run i stop using a finger, so first lap i stop using baby fingers, and then the next i also stop using ring fingers and so on.. untill left with only index fingers.
Then i start again but work it from the other way untill im left with only baby fingers, although i never get the full way back with only those.. but its good to give them a proper work coz they get left out alot in most climbing moves.
I do it after all my endurence stuff so im properly warmed up, would probably be better to leave out the baby finger part if your not confident, its a bit frisky
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