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james_va
Mar 30, 2010, 6:29 AM
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Guys, just a few quick questions here:
1-I'm considering Worrell's Thicket as a roped climbing alternative to Stairmaster. If I want to cut around to Luncheon Ledge, can I partially reverse these similar instructions from brianc from Luncheon Ledge to Upper Broadway (I believe Worrell's puts you on Lower Broadway)?
See bottom of thread below:
http://www.rockclimbing.com/...um.cgi?post=2162241\
2-What about Reverse C, or similar? Can I climb around Humphrey's Head w/o having to "summit" it completely and rap down (which would be tough on a busy weekend w/topropers there)?
3-Can you describe the summit rap station? I've probably used all/most of the south peak rap stations (not that there are many), but not this one. I am fairly comfy with awkward raps, and this seems convenient for cutting over to the north peak for a round trip experience, but if it's unnecessarily dicey I'll save my cool points for another situation.
Thanks in advance for any input.
James
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stagg54
Mar 30, 2010, 10:50 AM
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james_va wrote: Guys, just a few quick questions here: 1-I'm considering Worrell's Thicket as a roped climbing alternative to Stairmaster. If I want to cut around to Luncheon Ledge, can I partially reverse these similar instructions from brianc from Luncheon Ledge to Upper Broadway (I believe Worrell's puts you on Lower Broadway)? See bottom of thread below: http://www.rockclimbing.com/...um.cgi?post=2162241\ 2-What about Reverse C, or similar? Can I climb around Humphrey's Head w/o having to "summit" it completely and rap down (which would be tough on a busy weekend w/topropers there)? 3-Can you describe the summit rap station? I've probably used all/most of the south peak rap stations (not that there are many), but not this one. I am fairly comfy with awkward raps, and this seems convenient for cutting over to the north peak for a round trip experience, but if it's unnecessarily dicey I'll save my cool points for another situation. Thanks in advance for any input. James
1. Worrell's Thicket puts you on Lower Broadway. From there it a easy scramble to Luncheon. It's also an easy scramble to Upper Broadway.
2. Never done Reverse C. I'm sure you could climb up and over Humphrey's Head and just keep going.
3. Not sure what rap station you are talking about. Common ones are Conn's West, Traffic Jam. There's also Alcoa, Old Ladies, Gunsight. I'm sure there's probably more. If you want head to the North Peak East Face, walk out the fin and rap off the top of Gunsight. I don't think you can do it with a single. You'll need doubles. It's an easy scramble from there over to N. Peak E. face. That will put you on upper Broadway.
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naitch
Mar 30, 2010, 11:06 PM
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In reply to: 3. Not sure what rap station you are talking about. Common ones are Conn's West, Traffic Jam. There's also Alcoa, Old Ladies, Gunsight. I'm sure there's probably more. If you want head to the North Peak East Face, walk out the fin and rap off the top of Gunsight. I don't think you can do it with a single. You'll need doubles. It's an easy scramble from there over to N. Peak E. face. That will put you on upper Broadway.
You can make it on a 60m -you have to scramble (4th class the last few feet)
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james_va
Mar 31, 2010, 1:22 AM
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Thanks, guys.
So for clarity, the way around from Lower Broadway to Luncheon Ledge will be made obvious to all seekers -- as in, no fancy directions necessary?
Re: the "summit" rap station, maybe it's the same one as the "top of Gunsight". I think it's from a rock horn some yards north of the summit proper, but clearly on the summit ridge. I think you can see some blue slings around a rock horn if you click on this photo a few times to enlarge to max.
http://www.mountainproject.com/...553_large_3fc55a.jpg
It sounds like it's as legit as any other, if it's the one you're talking about.
Thanks again,
James
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stagg54
Mar 31, 2010, 3:37 AM
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If you are at the top of skyline, you climb up an easy chimney by a pine tree and it puts you on top of this flake/fin. Follow that and you should hit a chimney about shoulder width wide that you go through and you pop out on luncheon ledge. If I remember correctly there is also a big pine in the middle of the shoulder width chimney.
The rap station you are referring to appears to be the top of Alcoa. As you walk along the top of the fin away from the summit towards the N. Peak, The first break in the fin is the top of Alcoa. There is no longer a blue sing there, but there is a set of rap rings. Not sure if you can get down on a single although I would suspect you can. You'll probably have to do 2 raps though. It's a legit rap station although not often used. You have to downclimb some to get to it. Not difficult at all but very exposed. I recommend belaying it.
If you want to rap from the top of gunsight, go all the way to the end of the fin and look down and to your right. There's a big sloping ledge there with some old manky shuts on top of the ledge and a nice new pair just over the edge out of sight.
Hope that helps
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naitch
Mar 31, 2010, 10:38 AM
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The only rap from the "top" of South Peak that I know about is the Alcoa rap mentioned above. It raps off to the east side of the peak down to Alcoa ledge. Then it's another rap from Alcoa ledge down to Upper Broadway.I think it requires a 60m rope. From Upper Broadway there is a trail/scramble down to the main trail that will take up up to the East side of North Peak. Or, you can scramble (5.0) up the ramp into the Gunisght.
I don't know what the previous poster means by the rap from the Gunsight. The only one I'm aware of (unless there is something new I don't know about), is in the actual gunsight between North and South Peaks. There is a heavy duty rope or webbing wrapped around the rock with rap rings on it. This is wedged down in the rocks and is easiest to find if you are look down the 5.0 ramp that comes up from Upper Broadway to the Gunsight. As I mentioned in my first post you can rap down from there to the east side and that puts you at the start of the North Peak Wast face climbs with a little scrambling. This is also needs a 60m rope and as i mentioned you will have to do a simple 4th class down-climb the last 10-15 feet.
If you have any questions, the safest way is to go with someone who knows or ask someone there that is knowledgeable.
(This post was edited by naitch on Mar 31, 2010, 12:52 PM)
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hyhuu
Mar 31, 2010, 11:39 AM
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james_va wrote: Thanks, guys. So for clarity, the way around from Lower Broadway to Luncheon Ledge will be made obvious to all seekers -- as in, no fancy directions necessary? Re: the "summit" rap station, maybe it's the same one as the "top of Gunsight". I think it's from a rock horn some yards north of the summit proper, but clearly on the summit ridge. I think you can see some blue slings around a rock horn if you click on this photo a few times to enlarge to max. http://www.mountainproject.com/...553_large_3fc55a.jpg It sounds like it's as legit as any other, if it's the one you're talking about. Thanks again, James
There are 2 rap stations at the summit: at the top of Alcoa Present and Orange Aid. The one with the sling in the pic looks like Alcoa Present's. Orange Aid is about 10 ft south of Alcoa and much easier to get to. There are a set of 2 coldshuts and 1 old bolt. So from the summit, just walk north about 15 ft and look down to your right you should see the anchor. 2 raps should get you down to Upper Broadway.
Also, both stations are for rapping down the East Face only, if that's not already obvious.
(This post was edited by hyhuu on Mar 31, 2010, 12:55 PM)
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james_va
Apr 1, 2010, 12:12 AM
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Thanks, guys! I think the Orange Aid rap station is the one I'll check out next. All the info has been very helpful, so thanks again,
James
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stagg54
Apr 1, 2010, 12:30 AM
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naitch wrote: I don't know what the previous poster means by the rap from the Gunsight.
Gunsight ends right at the top of High Test (if you don't count the last scramble across the top of the fin). From there it is possible to wrap down to Upper Broadway.
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