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Gmburns2000
Apr 8, 2010, 5:17 AM
Post #5676 of 45342
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zeke_sf wrote: Gmburns2000 wrote: zeke_sf wrote: Gmburns2000 wrote: kachoong wrote: Gmburns2000 wrote: kachoong wrote: Gmburns2000 wrote: all of Dream of Wild Turkeys on Friday This climb is one on my list to get on too. That, Sour Mash and Rock Warrior too. When and if I ever get to go back to RR. we'll probably end up on sour mash due to wild turkey's popularity. I've heard it's got a bit of everything and possibly as good as DOWT. that's what I hear, too. The only downside is that sour mash isn't as long. I thought it was about the same since most people bail at DOWT's 7th pitch? That's what we did, anyway. I'm really not sold on Red Rocks as a climbing destination. I'm going to hit a few more classics there and see how I feel. everything i've read suggests going straight to the top because there are some stellar pitches after P7. wow - what classics haven't you done? Birdland, Crimson Chrysalis, Dark Shadows? <-- those are just a few: Olive Oil was a fun route and so was Black Magic. I'm guessing Epi isn't going to disappoint and niether will Frogland. I'm hoping that neither DOWT and / or Sour Mash will be right up there, too (if a 70m works on rap) I've heard great things about Johnny Vegas, Tunnel Vision, Solar Slabs (also heard SS wasn't that great, too). I can't stand the desert, but I keep wanting to go back for more and more... (the easy sport stuff sucks, but I can't vouch for the hard sport stuff. I don't really go there for the sport, but because routes are so long, and approaches and descents are so committing, there tends to be one "rest" day) I like sandstone, I like multipitch, I like the desert, but for some reason Red Rock really doesn't grab me. I'm planning on hitting epinephrine and lev 29, the exalted classics, and, if I still don't dig the area, I'm just not making an effort to go to a place I feel "meh" about in the future. I guess I should do that soon though, the place is going to be too hot pretty soon! I don't know, places like J Tree, Yosemite, Cochise, Indian Creek... they all just appeal to me for some unknown factor. Not saying RR isn't a good area, I just don't have a personal draw to it.
I can see that. I don't have much desire to head back to to Yos any time soon.
Lev 29 sounds pretty sweet, though.
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zeke_sf
Apr 8, 2010, 5:28 AM
Post #5677 of 45342
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Gmburns2000 wrote: zeke_sf wrote: Gmburns2000 wrote: zeke_sf wrote: Gmburns2000 wrote: kachoong wrote: Gmburns2000 wrote: kachoong wrote: Gmburns2000 wrote: all of Dream of Wild Turkeys on Friday This climb is one on my list to get on too. That, Sour Mash and Rock Warrior too. When and if I ever get to go back to RR. we'll probably end up on sour mash due to wild turkey's popularity. I've heard it's got a bit of everything and possibly as good as DOWT. that's what I hear, too. The only downside is that sour mash isn't as long. I thought it was about the same since most people bail at DOWT's 7th pitch? That's what we did, anyway. I'm really not sold on Red Rocks as a climbing destination. I'm going to hit a few more classics there and see how I feel. everything i've read suggests going straight to the top because there are some stellar pitches after P7. wow - what classics haven't you done? Birdland, Crimson Chrysalis, Dark Shadows? <-- those are just a few: Olive Oil was a fun route and so was Black Magic. I'm guessing Epi isn't going to disappoint and niether will Frogland. I'm hoping that neither DOWT and / or Sour Mash will be right up there, too (if a 70m works on rap) I've heard great things about Johnny Vegas, Tunnel Vision, Solar Slabs (also heard SS wasn't that great, too). I can't stand the desert, but I keep wanting to go back for more and more... (the easy sport stuff sucks, but I can't vouch for the hard sport stuff. I don't really go there for the sport, but because routes are so long, and approaches and descents are so committing, there tends to be one "rest" day) I like sandstone, I like multipitch, I like the desert, but for some reason Red Rock really doesn't grab me. I'm planning on hitting epinephrine and lev 29, the exalted classics, and, if I still don't dig the area, I'm just not making an effort to go to a place I feel "meh" about in the future. I guess I should do that soon though, the place is going to be too hot pretty soon! I don't know, places like J Tree, Yosemite, Cochise, Indian Creek... they all just appeal to me for some unknown factor. Not saying RR isn't a good area, I just don't have a personal draw to it. I can see that. I don't have much desire to head back to to Yos any time soon. Lev 29 sounds pretty sweet, though.
Yeah, sounds sweet, except - like most every other "classic" RR route - the approach is too long, rappelling will probably suck balls because of stuck ropes, the walkoff is worse, and its quality is most likely highly overrated.
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kachoong
Apr 8, 2010, 12:32 PM
Post #5678 of 45342
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Registered: Jan 23, 2004
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Gmburns2000 wrote: damn - a 70m rope might not be good enough to descend off either Wild Turkeys or Sour Mash.  (nor the stand-by Crimson Chrysalis)
Yeah, maybe double 60's might be better....
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kachoong
Apr 8, 2010, 12:36 PM
Post #5680 of 45342
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Registered: Jan 23, 2004
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zeke_sf wrote: Gmburns2000 wrote: zeke_sf wrote: Gmburns2000 wrote: kachoong wrote: Gmburns2000 wrote: kachoong wrote: Gmburns2000 wrote: all of Dream of Wild Turkeys on Friday This climb is one on my list to get on too. That, Sour Mash and Rock Warrior too. When and if I ever get to go back to RR. we'll probably end up on sour mash due to wild turkey's popularity. I've heard it's got a bit of everything and possibly as good as DOWT. that's what I hear, too. The only downside is that sour mash isn't as long. I thought it was about the same since most people bail at DOWT's 7th pitch? That's what we did, anyway. I'm really not sold on Red Rocks as a climbing destination. I'm going to hit a few more classics there and see how I feel. everything i've read suggests going straight to the top because there are some stellar pitches after P7. wow - what classics haven't you done? Birdland, Crimson Chrysalis, Dark Shadows? <-- those are just a few: Olive Oil was a fun route and so was Black Magic. I'm guessing Epi isn't going to disappoint and niether will Frogland. I'm hoping that neither DOWT and / or Sour Mash will be right up there, too (if a 70m works on rap) I've heard great things about Johnny Vegas, Tunnel Vision, Solar Slabs (also heard SS wasn't that great, too). I can't stand the desert, but I keep wanting to go back for more and more... (the easy sport stuff sucks, but I can't vouch for the hard sport stuff. I don't really go there for the sport, but because routes are so long, and approaches and descents are so committing, there tends to be one "rest" day) I like sandstone, I like multipitch, I like the desert, but for some reason Red Rock really doesn't grab me. I'm planning on hitting epinephrine and lev 29, the exalted classics, and, if I still don't dig the area, I'm just not making an effort to go to a place I feel "meh" about in the future. I guess I should do that soon though, the place is going to be too hot pretty soon! I don't know, places like J Tree, Yosemite, Cochise, Indian Creek... they all just appeal to me for some unknown factor. Not saying RR isn't a good area, I just don't have a personal draw to it.
I'd love to head back to RR a couple more times, since I haven't really had enough of a taste to make up my own mind on the place. Perhaps a planned overnight "bivy" might be the best plan for the long approaches... to climb a couple decent routes without the back and forth to the road.
Other than Cochise I don't have an opinion on the other classic asreas yet.... one day perhaps. We really need to move to CO or CA or sumpthin'!
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zeke_sf
Apr 8, 2010, 12:58 PM
Post #5681 of 45342
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Registered: Apr 28, 2006
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kachoong wrote: zeke_sf wrote:  Finally got on this (the climb, not the girl). Sweet sweetness. Awesome, mate! Looks like you're climbing stronger than ever. Looks like a sweet route!
Yeah, it's a very cool climb I'd like to get clean. It goes from a sweet, thin crack, to some bolt-protected technical burliness.
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kachoong
Apr 8, 2010, 1:06 PM
Post #5682 of 45342
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zeke_sf wrote: kachoong wrote: zeke_sf wrote: Finally got on this (the climb, not the girl). Sweet sweetness. Awesome, mate! Looks like you're climbing stronger than ever. Looks like a sweet route! Yeah, it's a very cool climb I'd like to get clean. It goes from a sweet, thin crack, to some bolt-protected technical burliness.
Nice... where is it?
I really enjoy "mixed" climbs like that. Back in Aus we used to have quite a few climbs at one of the local spots that had bolt-protected sections connecting discontinuous cracks. A little like the inverse of what appears on Peacemaker. Heh!
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zeke_sf
Apr 8, 2010, 1:14 PM
Post #5683 of 45342
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kachoong wrote: zeke_sf wrote: kachoong wrote: zeke_sf wrote: Finally got on this (the climb, not the girl). Sweet sweetness. Awesome, mate! Looks like you're climbing stronger than ever. Looks like a sweet route! Yeah, it's a very cool climb I'd like to get clean. It goes from a sweet, thin crack, to some bolt-protected technical burliness. Nice... where is it? I really enjoy "mixed" climbs like that. Back in Aus we used to have quite a few climbs at one of the local spots that had bolt-protected sections connecting discontinuous cracks. A little like the inverse of what appears on Peacemaker. Heh!
It's located at Isolation Canyon, an area that needs the guidebook published now! NOW! The main developer there has been dragging his heels on the actual publication part. You can often be the only party there with about 150 routes at your disposal, including multipitch (up to four pitches) sport and trad offerings. It would be cool to get on climbs knowing the protection scheme, etc., although eyeing what you climb is also cool. Crowds would be crowds, but area allows you to disperse, and it would also be nice to get a little more consensus on what routes are rated, etc..
This route, The Proposal, will be a cool send for me and I have my eye on a few more pretties there for next trip.
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zeke_sf
Apr 8, 2010, 1:16 PM
Post #5684 of 45342
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zeke_sf wrote: kachoong wrote: zeke_sf wrote: kachoong wrote: zeke_sf wrote: Finally got on this (the climb, not the girl). Sweet sweetness. Awesome, mate! Looks like you're climbing stronger than ever. Looks like a sweet route! Yeah, it's a very cool climb I'd like to get clean. It goes from a sweet, thin crack, to some bolt-protected technical burliness. Nice... where is it? I really enjoy "mixed" climbs like that. Back in Aus we used to have quite a few climbs at one of the local spots that had bolt-protected sections connecting discontinuous cracks. A little like the inverse of what appears on Peacemaker. Heh! It's located at Isolation Canyon, an area that needs the guidebook published now! NOW! The main developer there has been dragging his heels on the actual publication part. You can often be the only party there with about 150 routes at your disposal, including multipitch (up to four pitches) sport and trad offerings. It would be cool to get on climbs knowing the protection scheme, etc., although eyeing what you climb is also cool. Crowds would be crowds, but area allows you to disperse, and it would also be nice to get a little more consensus on what routes are rated, etc.. This route, The Proposal, will be a cool send for me and I have my eye on a few more pretties there for next trip.
The crack to the right, Semper Fi, is also on my list. It starts off with a bolt before getting into the crack.
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kachoong
Apr 8, 2010, 1:24 PM
Post #5685 of 45342
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zeke_sf wrote: kachoong wrote: zeke_sf wrote: kachoong wrote: zeke_sf wrote: Finally got on this (the climb, not the girl). Sweet sweetness. Awesome, mate! Looks like you're climbing stronger than ever. Looks like a sweet route! Yeah, it's a very cool climb I'd like to get clean. It goes from a sweet, thin crack, to some bolt-protected technical burliness. Nice... where is it? I really enjoy "mixed" climbs like that. Back in Aus we used to have quite a few climbs at one of the local spots that had bolt-protected sections connecting discontinuous cracks. A little like the inverse of what appears on Peacemaker. Heh! It's located at Isolation Canyon, an area that needs the guidebook published now! NOW! The main developer there has been dragging his heels on the actual publication part. You can often be the only party there with about 150 routes at your disposal, including multipitch (up to four pitches) sport and trad offerings. It would be cool to get on climbs knowing the protection scheme, etc., although eyeing what you climb is also cool. Crowds would be crowds, but area allows you to disperse, and it would also be nice to get a little more consensus on what routes are rated, etc.. This route, The Proposal, will be a cool send for me and I have my eye on a few more pretties there for next trip.
Sounds like my type of place. Adds to the adventure if you don't really know too much about the place... a grade though would be nice, but not neccessarily any info about the climbs.
Looks like it's not an easy place to find... how did you find out about it?
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zeke_sf
Apr 8, 2010, 1:31 PM
Post #5686 of 45342
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kachoong wrote: zeke_sf wrote: kachoong wrote: zeke_sf wrote: kachoong wrote: zeke_sf wrote: Finally got on this (the climb, not the girl). Sweet sweetness. Awesome, mate! Looks like you're climbing stronger than ever. Looks like a sweet route! Yeah, it's a very cool climb I'd like to get clean. It goes from a sweet, thin crack, to some bolt-protected technical burliness. Nice... where is it? I really enjoy "mixed" climbs like that. Back in Aus we used to have quite a few climbs at one of the local spots that had bolt-protected sections connecting discontinuous cracks. A little like the inverse of what appears on Peacemaker. Heh! It's located at Isolation Canyon, an area that needs the guidebook published now! NOW! The main developer there has been dragging his heels on the actual publication part. You can often be the only party there with about 150 routes at your disposal, including multipitch (up to four pitches) sport and trad offerings. It would be cool to get on climbs knowing the protection scheme, etc., although eyeing what you climb is also cool. Crowds would be crowds, but area allows you to disperse, and it would also be nice to get a little more consensus on what routes are rated, etc.. This route, The Proposal, will be a cool send for me and I have my eye on a few more pretties there for next trip. Sounds like my type of place. Adds to the adventure if you don't really know too much about the place... a grade though would be nice, but not neccessarily any info about the climbs. Looks like it's not an easy place to find... how did you find out about it?
I know a guy who knows the guy.
I've been playing detective to figure out the sprawling data online to divulge which routes are which.
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kachoong
Apr 8, 2010, 1:41 PM
Post #5687 of 45342
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zeke_sf wrote: kachoong wrote: zeke_sf wrote: kachoong wrote: zeke_sf wrote: kachoong wrote: zeke_sf wrote: Finally got on this (the climb, not the girl). Sweet sweetness. Awesome, mate! Looks like you're climbing stronger than ever. Looks like a sweet route! Yeah, it's a very cool climb I'd like to get clean. It goes from a sweet, thin crack, to some bolt-protected technical burliness. Nice... where is it? I really enjoy "mixed" climbs like that. Back in Aus we used to have quite a few climbs at one of the local spots that had bolt-protected sections connecting discontinuous cracks. A little like the inverse of what appears on Peacemaker. Heh! It's located at Isolation Canyon, an area that needs the guidebook published now! NOW! The main developer there has been dragging his heels on the actual publication part. You can often be the only party there with about 150 routes at your disposal, including multipitch (up to four pitches) sport and trad offerings. It would be cool to get on climbs knowing the protection scheme, etc., although eyeing what you climb is also cool. Crowds would be crowds, but area allows you to disperse, and it would also be nice to get a little more consensus on what routes are rated, etc.. This route, The Proposal, will be a cool send for me and I have my eye on a few more pretties there for next trip. Sounds like my type of place. Adds to the adventure if you don't really know too much about the place... a grade though would be nice, but not neccessarily any info about the climbs. Looks like it's not an easy place to find... how did you find out about it? I know a guy who knows the guy. I've been playing detective to figure out the sprawling data online to divulge which routes are which.
Hah! It's even more alluring that it's so secretive. Is the Proposal really 12a? Gud lord!
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zeke_sf
Apr 8, 2010, 1:57 PM
Post #5688 of 45342
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kachoong wrote: zeke_sf wrote: kachoong wrote: zeke_sf wrote: kachoong wrote: zeke_sf wrote: kachoong wrote: zeke_sf wrote: Finally got on this (the climb, not the girl). Sweet sweetness. Awesome, mate! Looks like you're climbing stronger than ever. Looks like a sweet route! Yeah, it's a very cool climb I'd like to get clean. It goes from a sweet, thin crack, to some bolt-protected technical burliness. Nice... where is it? I really enjoy "mixed" climbs like that. Back in Aus we used to have quite a few climbs at one of the local spots that had bolt-protected sections connecting discontinuous cracks. A little like the inverse of what appears on Peacemaker. Heh! It's located at Isolation Canyon, an area that needs the guidebook published now! NOW! The main developer there has been dragging his heels on the actual publication part. You can often be the only party there with about 150 routes at your disposal, including multipitch (up to four pitches) sport and trad offerings. It would be cool to get on climbs knowing the protection scheme, etc., although eyeing what you climb is also cool. Crowds would be crowds, but area allows you to disperse, and it would also be nice to get a little more consensus on what routes are rated, etc.. This route, The Proposal, will be a cool send for me and I have my eye on a few more pretties there for next trip. Sounds like my type of place. Adds to the adventure if you don't really know too much about the place... a grade though would be nice, but not neccessarily any info about the climbs. Looks like it's not an easy place to find... how did you find out about it? I know a guy who knows the guy. I've been playing detective to figure out the sprawling data online to divulge which routes are which. Hah! It's even more alluring that it's so secretive. Is the Proposal really 12a? Gud lord!
It feels like a 12. It sure bouted me like one.
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kachoong
Apr 8, 2010, 2:06 PM
Post #5689 of 45342
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zeke_sf wrote: kachoong wrote: zeke_sf wrote: kachoong wrote: zeke_sf wrote: kachoong wrote: zeke_sf wrote: kachoong wrote: zeke_sf wrote: Finally got on this (the climb, not the girl). Sweet sweetness. Awesome, mate! Looks like you're climbing stronger than ever. Looks like a sweet route! Yeah, it's a very cool climb I'd like to get clean. It goes from a sweet, thin crack, to some bolt-protected technical burliness. Nice... where is it? I really enjoy "mixed" climbs like that. Back in Aus we used to have quite a few climbs at one of the local spots that had bolt-protected sections connecting discontinuous cracks. A little like the inverse of what appears on Peacemaker. Heh! It's located at Isolation Canyon, an area that needs the guidebook published now! NOW! The main developer there has been dragging his heels on the actual publication part. You can often be the only party there with about 150 routes at your disposal, including multipitch (up to four pitches) sport and trad offerings. It would be cool to get on climbs knowing the protection scheme, etc., although eyeing what you climb is also cool. Crowds would be crowds, but area allows you to disperse, and it would also be nice to get a little more consensus on what routes are rated, etc.. This route, The Proposal, will be a cool send for me and I have my eye on a few more pretties there for next trip. Sounds like my type of place. Adds to the adventure if you don't really know too much about the place... a grade though would be nice, but not neccessarily any info about the climbs. Looks like it's not an easy place to find... how did you find out about it? I know a guy who knows the guy. I've been playing detective to figure out the sprawling data online to divulge which routes are which. Hah! It's even more alluring that it's so secretive. Is the Proposal really 12a? Gud lord! It feels like a 12. It sure bouted me like one.
Well, I think I found the hike in...
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Gmburns2000
Apr 8, 2010, 3:36 PM
Post #5690 of 45342
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zeke_sf wrote: Gmburns2000 wrote: zeke_sf wrote: Gmburns2000 wrote: zeke_sf wrote: Gmburns2000 wrote: kachoong wrote: Gmburns2000 wrote: kachoong wrote: Gmburns2000 wrote: all of Dream of Wild Turkeys on Friday This climb is one on my list to get on too. That, Sour Mash and Rock Warrior too. When and if I ever get to go back to RR. we'll probably end up on sour mash due to wild turkey's popularity. I've heard it's got a bit of everything and possibly as good as DOWT. that's what I hear, too. The only downside is that sour mash isn't as long. I thought it was about the same since most people bail at DOWT's 7th pitch? That's what we did, anyway. I'm really not sold on Red Rocks as a climbing destination. I'm going to hit a few more classics there and see how I feel. everything i've read suggests going straight to the top because there are some stellar pitches after P7. wow - what classics haven't you done? Birdland, Crimson Chrysalis, Dark Shadows? <-- those are just a few: Olive Oil was a fun route and so was Black Magic. I'm guessing Epi isn't going to disappoint and niether will Frogland. I'm hoping that neither DOWT and / or Sour Mash will be right up there, too (if a 70m works on rap) I've heard great things about Johnny Vegas, Tunnel Vision, Solar Slabs (also heard SS wasn't that great, too). I can't stand the desert, but I keep wanting to go back for more and more... (the easy sport stuff sucks, but I can't vouch for the hard sport stuff. I don't really go there for the sport, but because routes are so long, and approaches and descents are so committing, there tends to be one "rest" day) I like sandstone, I like multipitch, I like the desert, but for some reason Red Rock really doesn't grab me. I'm planning on hitting epinephrine and lev 29, the exalted classics, and, if I still don't dig the area, I'm just not making an effort to go to a place I feel "meh" about in the future. I guess I should do that soon though, the place is going to be too hot pretty soon! I don't know, places like J Tree, Yosemite, Cochise, Indian Creek... they all just appeal to me for some unknown factor. Not saying RR isn't a good area, I just don't have a personal draw to it. I can see that. I don't have much desire to head back to to Yos any time soon. Lev 29 sounds pretty sweet, though. Yeah, sounds sweet, except - like most every other "classic" RR route - the approach is too long, rappelling will probably suck balls because of stuck ropes, the walkoff is worse, and its quality is most likely highly overrated.
well, if you can levitate 29 then none of that matters much.
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Gmburns2000
Apr 8, 2010, 3:37 PM
Post #5691 of 45342
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zeke_sf wrote: kachoong wrote: zeke_sf wrote: kachoong wrote: zeke_sf wrote: kachoong wrote: zeke_sf wrote: kachoong wrote: zeke_sf wrote: Finally got on this (the climb, not the girl). Sweet sweetness. Awesome, mate! Looks like you're climbing stronger than ever. Looks like a sweet route! Yeah, it's a very cool climb I'd like to get clean. It goes from a sweet, thin crack, to some bolt-protected technical burliness. Nice... where is it? I really enjoy "mixed" climbs like that. Back in Aus we used to have quite a few climbs at one of the local spots that had bolt-protected sections connecting discontinuous cracks. A little like the inverse of what appears on Peacemaker. Heh! It's located at Isolation Canyon, an area that needs the guidebook published now! NOW! The main developer there has been dragging his heels on the actual publication part. You can often be the only party there with about 150 routes at your disposal, including multipitch (up to four pitches) sport and trad offerings. It would be cool to get on climbs knowing the protection scheme, etc., although eyeing what you climb is also cool. Crowds would be crowds, but area allows you to disperse, and it would also be nice to get a little more consensus on what routes are rated, etc.. This route, The Proposal, will be a cool send for me and I have my eye on a few more pretties there for next trip. Sounds like my type of place. Adds to the adventure if you don't really know too much about the place... a grade though would be nice, but not neccessarily any info about the climbs. Looks like it's not an easy place to find... how did you find out about it? I know a guy who knows the guy. I've been playing detective to figure out the sprawling data online to divulge which routes are which. Hah! It's even more alluring that it's so secretive. Is the Proposal really 12a? Gud lord! It feels like a 12. It sure bouted me like one.
haven't you shown us this before? Or were you just showing it to us and hoping to get on it then?
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caughtinside
Apr 8, 2010, 4:42 PM
Post #5692 of 45342
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zeke_sf wrote: kachoong wrote: zeke_sf wrote: kachoong wrote: zeke_sf wrote: kachoong wrote: zeke_sf wrote: Finally got on this (the climb, not the girl). Sweet sweetness. Awesome, mate! Looks like you're climbing stronger than ever. Looks like a sweet route! Yeah, it's a very cool climb I'd like to get clean. It goes from a sweet, thin crack, to some bolt-protected technical burliness. Nice... where is it? I really enjoy "mixed" climbs like that. Back in Aus we used to have quite a few climbs at one of the local spots that had bolt-protected sections connecting discontinuous cracks. A little like the inverse of what appears on Peacemaker. Heh! It's located at Isolation Canyon, an area that needs the guidebook published now! NOW! The main developer there has been dragging his heels on the actual publication part. You can often be the only party there with about 150 routes at your disposal, including multipitch (up to four pitches) sport and trad offerings. It would be cool to get on climbs knowing the protection scheme, etc., although eyeing what you climb is also cool. Crowds would be crowds, but area allows you to disperse, and it would also be nice to get a little more consensus on what routes are rated, etc.. This route, The Proposal, will be a cool send for me and I have my eye on a few more pretties there for next trip. Sounds like my type of place. Adds to the adventure if you don't really know too much about the place... a grade though would be nice, but not neccessarily any info about the climbs. Looks like it's not an easy place to find... how did you find out about it? I know a guy who knows the guy. I've been playing detective to figure out the sprawling data online to divulge which routes are which.
That looks rad!!
I'd try to ride it out with no guidebook as long as possible... that's a one way process, no getting the genie back in the bottle once it's out and the riff raff shows up. Keep hassling those guys you know, see if you can get an advance copy or some hand drawn topos or something. Place looks sweet.
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zeke_sf
Apr 8, 2010, 8:20 PM
Post #5693 of 45342
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Gmburns2000 wrote: zeke_sf wrote: Gmburns2000 wrote: zeke_sf wrote: Gmburns2000 wrote: zeke_sf wrote: Gmburns2000 wrote: kachoong wrote: Gmburns2000 wrote: kachoong wrote: Gmburns2000 wrote: all of Dream of Wild Turkeys on Friday This climb is one on my list to get on too. That, Sour Mash and Rock Warrior too. When and if I ever get to go back to RR. we'll probably end up on sour mash due to wild turkey's popularity. I've heard it's got a bit of everything and possibly as good as DOWT. that's what I hear, too. The only downside is that sour mash isn't as long. I thought it was about the same since most people bail at DOWT's 7th pitch? That's what we did, anyway. I'm really not sold on Red Rocks as a climbing destination. I'm going to hit a few more classics there and see how I feel. everything i've read suggests going straight to the top because there are some stellar pitches after P7. wow - what classics haven't you done? Birdland, Crimson Chrysalis, Dark Shadows? <-- those are just a few: Olive Oil was a fun route and so was Black Magic. I'm guessing Epi isn't going to disappoint and niether will Frogland. I'm hoping that neither DOWT and / or Sour Mash will be right up there, too (if a 70m works on rap) I've heard great things about Johnny Vegas, Tunnel Vision, Solar Slabs (also heard SS wasn't that great, too). I can't stand the desert, but I keep wanting to go back for more and more... (the easy sport stuff sucks, but I can't vouch for the hard sport stuff. I don't really go there for the sport, but because routes are so long, and approaches and descents are so committing, there tends to be one "rest" day) I like sandstone, I like multipitch, I like the desert, but for some reason Red Rock really doesn't grab me. I'm planning on hitting epinephrine and lev 29, the exalted classics, and, if I still don't dig the area, I'm just not making an effort to go to a place I feel "meh" about in the future. I guess I should do that soon though, the place is going to be too hot pretty soon! I don't know, places like J Tree, Yosemite, Cochise, Indian Creek... they all just appeal to me for some unknown factor. Not saying RR isn't a good area, I just don't have a personal draw to it. I can see that. I don't have much desire to head back to to Yos any time soon. Lev 29 sounds pretty sweet, though. Yeah, sounds sweet, except - like most every other "classic" RR route - the approach is too long, rappelling will probably suck balls because of stuck ropes, the walkoff is worse, and its quality is most likely highly overrated. well, if you can levitate 29 then none of that matters much.
Actually, that's the whole point. If I can Levitate 29 and I still don't care too much for the place, it matters. It may be the gestalt of the place: shitty camping, the stupid, one-way loop, my inexplicable bad attitude towards it... who knows.
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zeke_sf
Apr 8, 2010, 8:21 PM
Post #5694 of 45342
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Gmburns2000 wrote: zeke_sf wrote: kachoong wrote: zeke_sf wrote: kachoong wrote: zeke_sf wrote: kachoong wrote: zeke_sf wrote: kachoong wrote: zeke_sf wrote: Finally got on this (the climb, not the girl). Sweet sweetness. Awesome, mate! Looks like you're climbing stronger than ever. Looks like a sweet route! Yeah, it's a very cool climb I'd like to get clean. It goes from a sweet, thin crack, to some bolt-protected technical burliness. Nice... where is it? I really enjoy "mixed" climbs like that. Back in Aus we used to have quite a few climbs at one of the local spots that had bolt-protected sections connecting discontinuous cracks. A little like the inverse of what appears on Peacemaker. Heh! It's located at Isolation Canyon, an area that needs the guidebook published now! NOW! The main developer there has been dragging his heels on the actual publication part. You can often be the only party there with about 150 routes at your disposal, including multipitch (up to four pitches) sport and trad offerings. It would be cool to get on climbs knowing the protection scheme, etc., although eyeing what you climb is also cool. Crowds would be crowds, but area allows you to disperse, and it would also be nice to get a little more consensus on what routes are rated, etc.. This route, The Proposal, will be a cool send for me and I have my eye on a few more pretties there for next trip. Sounds like my type of place. Adds to the adventure if you don't really know too much about the place... a grade though would be nice, but not neccessarily any info about the climbs. Looks like it's not an easy place to find... how did you find out about it? I know a guy who knows the guy. I've been playing detective to figure out the sprawling data online to divulge which routes are which. Hah! It's even more alluring that it's so secretive. Is the Proposal really 12a? Gud lord! It feels like a 12. It sure bouted me like one. haven't you shown us this before? Or were you just showing it to us and hoping to get on it then?
Probably.
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Gmburns2000
Apr 8, 2010, 11:06 PM
Post #5695 of 45342
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Registered: Mar 6, 2007
Posts: 15266
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zeke_sf wrote: Gmburns2000 wrote: zeke_sf wrote: Gmburns2000 wrote: zeke_sf wrote: Gmburns2000 wrote: zeke_sf wrote: Gmburns2000 wrote: kachoong wrote: Gmburns2000 wrote: kachoong wrote: Gmburns2000 wrote: all of Dream of Wild Turkeys on Friday This climb is one on my list to get on too. That, Sour Mash and Rock Warrior too. When and if I ever get to go back to RR. we'll probably end up on sour mash due to wild turkey's popularity. I've heard it's got a bit of everything and possibly as good as DOWT. that's what I hear, too. The only downside is that sour mash isn't as long. I thought it was about the same since most people bail at DOWT's 7th pitch? That's what we did, anyway. I'm really not sold on Red Rocks as a climbing destination. I'm going to hit a few more classics there and see how I feel. everything i've read suggests going straight to the top because there are some stellar pitches after P7. wow - what classics haven't you done? Birdland, Crimson Chrysalis, Dark Shadows? <-- those are just a few: Olive Oil was a fun route and so was Black Magic. I'm guessing Epi isn't going to disappoint and niether will Frogland. I'm hoping that neither DOWT and / or Sour Mash will be right up there, too (if a 70m works on rap) I've heard great things about Johnny Vegas, Tunnel Vision, Solar Slabs (also heard SS wasn't that great, too). I can't stand the desert, but I keep wanting to go back for more and more... (the easy sport stuff sucks, but I can't vouch for the hard sport stuff. I don't really go there for the sport, but because routes are so long, and approaches and descents are so committing, there tends to be one "rest" day) I like sandstone, I like multipitch, I like the desert, but for some reason Red Rock really doesn't grab me. I'm planning on hitting epinephrine and lev 29, the exalted classics, and, if I still don't dig the area, I'm just not making an effort to go to a place I feel "meh" about in the future. I guess I should do that soon though, the place is going to be too hot pretty soon! I don't know, places like J Tree, Yosemite, Cochise, Indian Creek... they all just appeal to me for some unknown factor. Not saying RR isn't a good area, I just don't have a personal draw to it. I can see that. I don't have much desire to head back to to Yos any time soon. Lev 29 sounds pretty sweet, though. Yeah, sounds sweet, except - like most every other "classic" RR route - the approach is too long, rappelling will probably suck balls because of stuck ropes, the walkoff is worse, and its quality is most likely highly overrated. well, if you can levitate 29 then none of that matters much. Actually, that's the whole point. If I can Levitate 29 and I still don't care too much for the place, it matters. It may be the gestalt of the place: shitty camping, the stupid, one-way loop, my inexplicable bad attitude towards it... who knows.
yeah, the loop is annoying. this will be my first venture into black velvet canyon, so no loop and no fee.
as you probably saw on my thread with regards to the camping, we went with a hotel. they're cheap here and the one i stay at is pretty damn close. yeah, i'm skeptical on the camping.
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Gmburns2000
Apr 8, 2010, 11:08 PM
Post #5696 of 45342
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Registered: Mar 6, 2007
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looks as if we're heading next week to some place in NM with hot springs (single pitch stuff, about 6hrs from Colorado Springs, I think).
Jello's girlfriend didn't want to go to the black and didnt want to get left behind (she doesnt climb). the black also had hot springs, but she wasn't digging those as much.
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caughtinside
Apr 9, 2010, 12:43 AM
Post #5697 of 45342
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Registered: Jan 8, 2003
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Jemez? Great hot springs and some fun cragging around Los Alamos and white rock.
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Gmburns2000
Apr 9, 2010, 1:08 AM
Post #5698 of 45342
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caughtinside wrote: Jemez? Great hot springs and some fun cragging around Los Alamos and white rock.
yup, jemez springs. neither of us are too thrilled with single-pitch, but sometimes one has to keep the lady happy. we're also doing eldo and / or boulder for a couple of days in advance instead of four straight days in the black.
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Gmburns2000
Apr 9, 2010, 1:09 AM
Post #5699 of 45342
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^^ 22nd and 23rd only I guess.
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caughtinside
Apr 9, 2010, 1:10 AM
Post #5700 of 45342
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Gmburns2000 wrote: caughtinside wrote: Jemez? Great hot springs and some fun cragging around Los Alamos and white rock. yup, jemez springs. neither of us are too thrilled with single-pitch, but sometimes one has to keep the lady happy. we're also doing eldo and / or boulder for a couple of days in advance instead of four straight days in the black.
If the lady ain't happy, ain't nobody happy. I climbed a bit around there a couple years ago. I thought the Overlook at white rock was my favorite, but we did do mostly sport. There were some cracks there but my partners weren't interested. There was a really cool area called the dungeon with steep sport, but it was covered in icicles.
if you have time Bandolier national monument is right there, some pretty sweet cliff dwellings.
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