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Gmburns2000
Apr 13, 2010, 3:34 PM
Post #5726 of 45342
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sungam wrote: Gmburns2000 wrote: looks as if we're heading next week to some place in NM with hot springs (single pitch stuff, about 6hrs from Colorado Springs, I think). Jello's girlfriend didn't want to go to the black and didnt want to get left behind (she doesnt climb). the black also had hot springs, but she wasn't digging those as much. Screw that! Get to the black! Greg, you're being pussy-whiped BY SOMEONE ELSE'S GIRLFRIEND. NO. BAD GREG. BAD. GO TO THE BLACK, GO DIRECTLY TO THE BLACK, DO NOT PASS JEMEZ SPRINGS, DO NOT COLLECT SINGLE PITCH BS.
I lost. she no like me coming to CO for three weeks and taking her boyfriend away for all of his free time, especially when she's leaving for a week after we go climbing, and then he's leaving for a week after she gets back (after I leave) for his sister's graduation. Ends up being six weeks without him. I'm a bad boy all around.
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Gmburns2000
Apr 13, 2010, 3:41 PM
Post #5727 of 45342
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caughtinside wrote: zeke_sf wrote: caughtinside wrote: zeke_sf wrote: Gmburns2000 wrote: caughtinside wrote: Jemez? Great hot springs and some fun cragging around Los Alamos and white rock. yup, jemez springs. neither of us are too thrilled with single-pitch, but sometimes one has to keep the lady happy. we're also doing eldo and / or boulder for a couple of days in advance instead of four straight days in the black. More variety and your buddy gets laid. Everybody wins. hey burnsy, can Jello even climb? I thought he was really fucked up from something, like MS? Jello would be an apt name. He also has the FA of Surrealistic Pillar Direct.
haha! yeah, he can climb. he can climb circles around me, but that's not that hard. he had a good weekend in RR this weekend. I had an OK one.
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Gmburns2000
Apr 13, 2010, 3:43 PM
Post #5728 of 45342
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Lazlo wrote: TR time! Sooooo..... The fam and I went for a weekend of skiing. We stayed in North Lake Tahoe and skiing for two days at Boreal. The first day, I skipped out on the boring hill and went BC toward Castle Peak. [image]http://sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-ash1/hs442.ash1/24396_1341545333658_1081922301_1018432_2354217_n.jpg[/image] Found some ice. [image]http://sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc3/hs402.snc3/24396_1341544893647_1081922301_1018427_1879170_n.jpg[/image] Didn't climb it. Was pretty cool to see in Nor Cal. Rather rare thing around here. Here is a view of the summit from the first of three spires that you arrive at. You can see two climbers on the summit. At this point, you have to down climb and traverse over to what summit post calls a "third class scramble" I call BS as there is a rap anchor on top.  Granted I climbed it in ski boots...but I'd call it class 4 to 5.1 [image]http://sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc3/hs422.snc3/24396_1341553293857_1081922301_1018448_4742906_n.jpg[/image] The summit: [image]http://sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc3/hs422.snc3/24396_1341553253856_1081922301_1018447_4576738_n.jpg[/image] Summit marker: [image]http://hphotos-sjc1.fbcdn.net/hs422.snc3/24396_1341545093652_1081922301_1018429_500733_n.jpg[/image] Me and my Voodoos: [image]http://sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc3/hs422.snc3/24396_1341544973649_1081922301_1018428_6719282_n.jpg[/image] View toward Boreal: [image]http://sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-ash1/hs442.ash1/24396_1341544813645_1081922301_1018426_2381602_n.jpg[/image] Very fun trip. I went in there for the skiing and ended up enjoying the climb more. It was one of my favorite summits. 
nice TR, dude. who went with you on the climbing?
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Gmburns2000
Apr 13, 2010, 3:44 PM
Post #5729 of 45342
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did Goblet to Dream of Wild Turkeys, Frogland, Epinephrine in three days. I was toast by the time we hit the tarred road at Epi.
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kachoong
Apr 13, 2010, 3:50 PM
Post #5730 of 45342
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Lazlo wrote: TR time! Sooooo..... The fam and I went for a weekend of skiing. We stayed in North Lake Tahoe and skiing for two days at Boreal. The first day, I skipped out on the boring hill and went BC toward Castle Peak. [image]http://sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-ash1/hs442.ash1/24396_1341545333658_1081922301_1018432_2354217_n.jpg[/image] Found some ice. [image]http://sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc3/hs402.snc3/24396_1341544893647_1081922301_1018427_1879170_n.jpg[/image] Didn't climb it. Was pretty cool to see in Nor Cal. Rather rare thing around here. Here is a view of the summit from the first of three spires that you arrive at. You can see two climbers on the summit. At this point, you have to down climb and traverse over to what summit post calls a "third class scramble" I call BS as there is a rap anchor on top. Granted I climbed it in ski boots...but I'd call it class 4 to 5.1 [image]http://sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc3/hs422.snc3/24396_1341553293857_1081922301_1018448_4742906_n.jpg[/image] The summit:  Summit marker: [image]http://hphotos-sjc1.fbcdn.net/hs422.snc3/24396_1341545093652_1081922301_1018429_500733_n.jpg[/image] Me and my Voodoos: [image]http://sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc3/hs422.snc3/24396_1341544973649_1081922301_1018428_6719282_n.jpg[/image] View toward Boreal: [image]http://sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-ash1/hs442.ash1/24396_1341544813645_1081922301_1018426_2381602_n.jpg[/image] Very fun trip. I went in there for the skiing and ended up enjoying the climb more. It was one of my favorite summits.
Sweet! Sounds like a great way to spend the w'end, Laz.
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kachoong
Apr 13, 2010, 3:57 PM
Post #5731 of 45342
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Gmburns2000 wrote: sungam wrote: Gmburns2000 wrote: looks as if we're heading next week to some place in NM with hot springs (single pitch stuff, about 6hrs from Colorado Springs, I think). Jello's girlfriend didn't want to go to the black and didnt want to get left behind (she doesnt climb). the black also had hot springs, but she wasn't digging those as much. Screw that! Get to the black! Greg, you're being pussy-whiped BY SOMEONE ELSE'S GIRLFRIEND. NO. BAD GREG. BAD. GO TO THE BLACK, GO DIRECTLY TO THE BLACK, DO NOT PASS JEMEZ SPRINGS, DO NOT COLLECT SINGLE PITCH BS. I lost. she no like me coming to CO for three weeks and taking her boyfriend away for all of his free time, especially when she's leaving for a week after we go climbing, and then he's leaving for a week after she gets back (after I leave) for his sister's graduation. Ends up being six weeks without him. I'm a bad boy all around.
Six weeks is nuthin'!
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kachoong
Apr 13, 2010, 3:58 PM
Post #5732 of 45342
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Gmburns2000 wrote: did Goblet to Dream of Wild Turkeys, Frogland, Epinephrine in three days. I was toast by the time we hit the tarred road at Epi.
Great! Pics???????
Bet your toes were hurtin'!
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Gmburns2000
Apr 13, 2010, 4:18 PM
Post #5733 of 45342
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kachoong wrote: Gmburns2000 wrote: did Goblet to Dream of Wild Turkeys, Frogland, Epinephrine in three days. I was toast by the time we hit the tarred road at Epi. Great! Pics??????? Bet your toes were hurtin'!
holy fuck you aren't kidding. damn, that first day was HARD on the toes. too many hanging belays.
then our fingertips ended up shredded after Epi. Not sure why it happened after Epi in particular, but that was the case.
sore toes, calves, and fingertips FTL 
but fun climbing FTW 
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zeke_sf
Apr 13, 2010, 6:21 PM
Post #5734 of 45342
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Gmburns2000 wrote: did Goblet to Dream of Wild Turkeys, Frogland, Epinephrine in three days. I was toast by the time we hit the tarred road at Epi.
Sometimes you forget if you're hiking or climbing in RR.
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Gmburns2000
Apr 13, 2010, 6:51 PM
Post #5735 of 45342
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zeke_sf wrote: Gmburns2000 wrote: did Goblet to Dream of Wild Turkeys, Frogland, Epinephrine in three days. I was toast by the time we hit the tarred road at Epi. Sometimes you forget if you're hiking or climbing in RR.
damn, that descent off Epi is really hard. I mean, if you have good beta and you're coming off in the daylight, then it is pretty straight forward. If that's the case, then it is simply MUCH longer than you really want it to be (which was the case for us).
However, without good info and / or if you're looking for it in the dark - wow, I can totally see why so many people bivy.
Two of the three chimneys kicked my ass.
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zeke_sf
Apr 13, 2010, 6:53 PM
Post #5736 of 45342
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Gmburns2000 wrote: zeke_sf wrote: Gmburns2000 wrote: did Goblet to Dream of Wild Turkeys, Frogland, Epinephrine in three days. I was toast by the time we hit the tarred road at Epi. Sometimes you forget if you're hiking or climbing in RR. damn, that descent off Epi is really hard. I mean, if you have good beta and you're coming off in the daylight, then it is pretty straight forward. If that's the case, then it is simply MUCH longer than you really want it to be (which was the case for us). However, without good info and / or if you're looking for it in the dark - wow, I can totally see why so many people bivy. Two of the three chimneys kicked my ass.
Hmmm... that sucks to hear. I hate gathering beta.
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donald949
Apr 13, 2010, 6:59 PM
Post #5737 of 45342
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sungam wrote: Lazlo wrote: tree climbing today. I love getting paid to climb. Reception duty today, I love getting paid to post.
Hey ho, its Sunny...
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donald949
Apr 13, 2010, 7:01 PM
Post #5738 of 45342
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kachoong wrote: donald949 wrote: In other news. Hows everyones Spring break shaping up? Anyone climbing this week/weekend/next week? Spring has a break? A slice of winter... or prehaps summer shoved in the break? We went to Austin for a few days... enjoyed being in the city... Yippeee a bookstore!! We also went climbing and enjoyed some restaurants we don't get out here in the Outback.
Well, my two boys are in school. So we vacation when they are off.
Had a good trip, no climbing though. I'll make quick write up in a sec.
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donald949
Apr 13, 2010, 7:02 PM
Post #5739 of 45342
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epoch wrote: Burnsey tried to kill me. Literally. He also killed the Easter turkey.
Those two events are related to each other.
So he failed in his mission?
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donald949
Apr 13, 2010, 7:06 PM
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Looks good.
Hard to argue with...
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Gmburns2000
Apr 13, 2010, 7:09 PM
Post #5742 of 45342
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zeke_sf wrote: Gmburns2000 wrote: zeke_sf wrote: Gmburns2000 wrote: did Goblet to Dream of Wild Turkeys, Frogland, Epinephrine in three days. I was toast by the time we hit the tarred road at Epi. Sometimes you forget if you're hiking or climbing in RR. damn, that descent off Epi is really hard. I mean, if you have good beta and you're coming off in the daylight, then it is pretty straight forward. If that's the case, then it is simply MUCH longer than you really want it to be (which was the case for us). However, without good info and / or if you're looking for it in the dark - wow, I can totally see why so many people bivy. Two of the three chimneys kicked my ass. Hmmm... that sucks to hear. I hate gathering beta.
well, it's only the descent really. The approach may be a little complicated if you aren't familiar with the area, but the climb itself, it's pretty straight forward. I'd find it tough to believe anyone could fuck up the route itself.
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donald949
Apr 13, 2010, 7:15 PM
Post #5743 of 45342
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Gmburns2000 wrote: zeke_sf wrote: Gmburns2000 wrote: zeke_sf wrote: Gmburns2000 wrote: zeke_sf wrote: Gmburns2000 wrote: zeke_sf wrote: Gmburns2000 wrote: kachoong wrote: Gmburns2000 wrote: kachoong wrote: Gmburns2000 wrote: all of Dream of Wild Turkeys on Friday This climb is one on my list to get on too. That, Sour Mash and Rock Warrior too. When and if I ever get to go back to RR. we'll probably end up on sour mash due to wild turkey's popularity. I've heard it's got a bit of everything and possibly as good as DOWT. that's what I hear, too. The only downside is that sour mash isn't as long. I thought it was about the same since most people bail at DOWT's 7th pitch? That's what we did, anyway. I'm really not sold on Red Rocks as a climbing destination. I'm going to hit a few more classics there and see how I feel. everything i've read suggests going straight to the top because there are some stellar pitches after P7. wow - what classics haven't you done? Birdland, Crimson Chrysalis, Dark Shadows? <-- those are just a few: Olive Oil was a fun route and so was Black Magic. I'm guessing Epi isn't going to disappoint and niether will Frogland. I'm hoping that neither DOWT and / or Sour Mash will be right up there, too (if a 70m works on rap) I've heard great things about Johnny Vegas, Tunnel Vision, Solar Slabs (also heard SS wasn't that great, too). I can't stand the desert, but I keep wanting to go back for more and more... (the easy sport stuff sucks, but I can't vouch for the hard sport stuff. I don't really go there for the sport, but because routes are so long, and approaches and descents are so committing, there tends to be one "rest" day) I like sandstone, I like multipitch, I like the desert, but for some reason Red Rock really doesn't grab me. I'm planning on hitting epinephrine and lev 29, the exalted classics, and, if I still don't dig the area, I'm just not making an effort to go to a place I feel "meh" about in the future. I guess I should do that soon though, the place is going to be too hot pretty soon! I don't know, places like J Tree, Yosemite, Cochise, Indian Creek... they all just appeal to me for some unknown factor. Not saying RR isn't a good area, I just don't have a personal draw to it. I can see that. I don't have much desire to head back to to Yos any time soon. Lev 29 sounds pretty sweet, though. Yeah, sounds sweet, except - like most every other "classic" RR route - the approach is too long, rappelling will probably suck balls because of stuck ropes, the walkoff is worse, and its quality is most likely highly overrated. well, if you can levitate 29 then none of that matters much. Actually, that's the whole point. If I can Levitate 29 and I still don't care too much for the place, it matters. It may be the gestalt of the place: shitty camping, the stupid, one-way loop, my inexplicable bad attitude towards it... who knows. yeah, the loop is annoying. this will be my first venture into black velvet canyon, so no loop and no fee. as you probably saw on my thread with regards to the camping, we went with a hotel. they're cheap here and the one i stay at is pretty damn close. yeah, i'm skeptical on the camping.
So what is the problem w/ the camping?
I haven't looked into it much. Just seen a couple pics of the campground. Looked fine, like it would work with my trailer for bringing the family sometime. I've also been known to crash in the back of the Sub. Actually my ussual MO when camping solo for climbing trips.
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donald949
Apr 13, 2010, 7:18 PM
Post #5744 of 45342
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sungam wrote: Gmburns2000 wrote: looks as if we're heading next week to some place in NM with hot springs (single pitch stuff, about 6hrs from Colorado Springs, I think). Jello's girlfriend didn't want to go to the black and didnt want to get left behind (she doesnt climb). the black also had hot springs, but she wasn't digging those as much. Screw that! Get to the black! Greg, you're being pussy-whiped BY SOMEONE ELSE'S GIRLFRIEND. NO. BAD GREG. BAD. GO TO THE BLACK, GO DIRECTLY TO THE BLACK, DO NOT PASS JEMEZ SPRINGS, DO NOT COLLECT SINGLE PITCH BS.
Did you ever get on that long slab out of SLC that you posted a picture of last year. That looked sweet. Do you have the 411 link on it.
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Lazlo
Apr 13, 2010, 7:22 PM
Post #5745 of 45342
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Gmburns2000 wrote: Lazlo wrote: TR time! Sooooo..... The fam and I went for a weekend of skiing. We stayed in North Lake Tahoe and skiing for two days at Boreal. The first day, I skipped out on the boring hill and went BC toward Castle Peak.  Found some ice.  Didn't climb it. Was pretty cool to see in Nor Cal. Rather rare thing around here. Here is a view of the summit from the first of three spires that you arrive at. You can see two climbers on the summit. At this point, you have to down climb and traverse over to what summit post calls a "third class scramble" I call BS as there is a rap anchor on top. Granted I climbed it in ski boots...but I'd call it class 4 to 5.1  The summit: Summit marker:  Me and my Voodoos:  View toward Boreal:  Very fun trip. I went in there for the skiing and ended up enjoying the climb more. It was one of my favorite summits. nice TR, dude. who went with you on the climbing?
Thanks. I went solo. I'm growing weary of trying to find partners. It's such a pita
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Gmburns2000
Apr 13, 2010, 7:24 PM
Post #5746 of 45342
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donald949 wrote: So what is the problem w/ the camping? I haven't looked into it much. Just seen a couple pics of the campground. Looked fine, like it would work with my trailer for bringing the family sometime. I've also been known to crash in the back of the Sub. Actually my ussual MO when camping solo for climbing trips.
we stayed at the Suncoast Casino, so I can't comment on the conditions except for that one spin through the campground that we took looking for a couple of Jeremiah's friends who happened to be in RR at the same time. We didn't find them, though. It might not have helped that, as we were driving slowly along the dark, dirt road, I was chanting, "warriorrrrs, come out and pla-yayyyyy..."
From what I saw, though, it didn't look that bad, nor nearly as crowded as folks suggested it might be (i.e. - we could have had a site had we tried for one). There were certainly trailers there, too.
I'm glad we stayed in a hotel, though. I got beat up from a lot of climbing long days at my limit. The hot tub after Epi was well worth the expense of the hotel.
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Gmburns2000
Apr 13, 2010, 7:25 PM
Post #5747 of 45342
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Lazlo wrote: Gmburns2000 wrote: Lazlo wrote: TR time! Sooooo..... The fam and I went for a weekend of skiing. We stayed in North Lake Tahoe and skiing for two days at Boreal. The first day, I skipped out on the boring hill and went BC toward Castle Peak. [image]http://sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-ash1/hs442.ash1/24396_1341545333658_1081922301_1018432_2354217_n.jpg[/image] Found some ice. [image]http://sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc3/hs402.snc3/24396_1341544893647_1081922301_1018427_1879170_n.jpg[/image] Didn't climb it. Was pretty cool to see in Nor Cal. Rather rare thing around here. Here is a view of the summit from the first of three spires that you arrive at. You can see two climbers on the summit. At this point, you have to down climb and traverse over to what summit post calls a "third class scramble" I call BS as there is a rap anchor on top. Granted I climbed it in ski boots...but I'd call it class 4 to 5.1 [image]http://sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc3/hs422.snc3/24396_1341553293857_1081922301_1018448_4742906_n.jpg[/image] The summit: [image]http://sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc3/hs422.snc3/24396_1341553253856_1081922301_1018447_4576738_n.jpg[/image] Summit marker: [image]http://hphotos-sjc1.fbcdn.net/hs422.snc3/24396_1341545093652_1081922301_1018429_500733_n.jpg[/image] Me and my Voodoos: [image]http://sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc3/hs422.snc3/24396_1341544973649_1081922301_1018428_6719282_n.jpg[/image] View toward Boreal: [image]http://sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-ash1/hs442.ash1/24396_1341544813645_1081922301_1018426_2381602_n.jpg[/image] Very fun trip. I went in there for the skiing and ended up enjoying the climb more. It was one of my favorite summits. nice TR, dude. who went with you on the climbing? Thanks. I went solo. I'm growing weary of trying to find partners. It's such a pita
with the exception of a lack of partners, you've got a good deal going.
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donald949
Apr 13, 2010, 7:47 PM
Post #5748 of 45342
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Gmburns2000 wrote: did Goblet to Dream of Wild Turkeys, Frogland, Epinephrine in three days. I was toast by the time we hit the tarred road at Epi.
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donald949
Apr 13, 2010, 7:52 PM
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Gmburns2000 wrote: donald949 wrote: So what is the problem w/ the camping? I haven't looked into it much. Just seen a couple pics of the campground. Looked fine, like it would work with my trailer for bringing the family sometime. I've also been known to crash in the back of the Sub. Actually my ussual MO when camping solo for climbing trips. we stayed at the Suncoast Casino, so I can't comment on the conditions except for that one spin through the campground that we took looking for a couple of Jeremiah's friends who happened to be in RR at the same time. We didn't find them, though. It might not have helped that, as we were driving slowly along the dark, dirt road, I was chanting, "warriorrrrs, come out and pla-yayyyyy..." From what I saw, though, it didn't look that bad, nor nearly as crowded as folks suggested it might be (i.e. - we could have had a site had we tried for one). There were certainly trailers there, too. I'm glad we stayed in a hotel, though. I got beat up from a lot of climbing long days at my limit. The hot tub after Epi was well worth the expense of the hotel.
Sounds good.
Hoteling with the family is kinda painful. Should be was. Kids are getting older so it should be better.
The advantage of the trailer is the kids can play right outside while we make dinner inside/rest.
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Gmburns2000
Apr 13, 2010, 8:39 PM
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donald949 wrote: Gmburns2000 wrote: donald949 wrote: So what is the problem w/ the camping? I haven't looked into it much. Just seen a couple pics of the campground. Looked fine, like it would work with my trailer for bringing the family sometime. I've also been known to crash in the back of the Sub. Actually my ussual MO when camping solo for climbing trips. we stayed at the Suncoast Casino, so I can't comment on the conditions except for that one spin through the campground that we took looking for a couple of Jeremiah's friends who happened to be in RR at the same time. We didn't find them, though. It might not have helped that, as we were driving slowly along the dark, dirt road, I was chanting, "warriorrrrs, come out and pla-yayyyyy..." From what I saw, though, it didn't look that bad, nor nearly as crowded as folks suggested it might be (i.e. - we could have had a site had we tried for one). There were certainly trailers there, too. I'm glad we stayed in a hotel, though. I got beat up from a lot of climbing long days at my limit. The hot tub after Epi was well worth the expense of the hotel. Sounds good. Hoteling with the family is kinda painful. Should be was. Kids are getting older so it should be better. The advantage of the trailer is the kids can play right outside while we make dinner inside/rest.
totally understandable. I'd do that campground with a trailer. it's not the most comfy (I'd still do it with a tent for a short trip) and doesn't have facilities (pit toilet). Not sure about water. Definitely not a "nice" campground, though.
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